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today i was repairing my steering wheel lock all morning . when i was about to give up i found the problem...on the circut board inside lock modul there was board connection fried, and one transistor that operates with motor relay. after soldering it together lock engaged locking but then didnt unlock. so i decided to unsolder this connection and now i have lock module that doesnt work and its in unlock position all the time, but on screen i still have notification for service steering column lock...but now my ampera is drivable...possible reasons for that problems are white motor relay burned, locking motor bad, or damadged circut board. what i learned this morning:
if i get notification but car drives then the modul stayed in unlocked position
if i get permanent fault and car is undrivable then modul stayed in locked position
its possible to dismantle modul and put it in whatever position we want (unlock is better hehe) by opening the modul and put 12v directly on motor pins...
now i wil order new locking module but just need one info from you guys: will new module work without any reprogramming or not...i dont want to pay money to opel service they will just rape me till the end...and what is the right code number?
 

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I would expect the module to be coded to the CAN bus although this is the first time I have heard of the controlling board being faulty. It is usually the toy motor in the lock that is the cause.
I guess the software is looking for a surge in current to register the lock being locked/unlocked so you will always have the notification on screen unfortunately.

EDIT
If that circuit board is inside the steering lock then I think that it is not coded as a few on this forum have swapped it out sucessfully. I purchased one from the US on Ebay as a spare but it is sealed as you probably know.
 

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nope mine wasnt sealed it opens with 4 hex screws...perhaps u mean 2 shear screws on bottom (they are tighten to a point they break head off so its very hard to steal car) , they need to be grinded or chiselled avay to get lock module out...this board is two sided and built in smd technology also motor pull big current in start up and at the end of pulse when it smashes into column or even to unlock position, so i would expect that motor will die in few years also contacts of a motor relay and in my case also burned board...have seen it many times repairing electronics...
so 60-80 dollars isnt much to avoid all problems every 7 years (2012) if its diy job perfecto...
so is gm 23377962 correct number?
thanks
 

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Yes, that is the part number for the later version.
I used Google to find this earlier post regarding the problem as the site search is useless. Page 12 has some interesting pictures of a seriously burned motor.
 

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yep mine pics are from the same lock module...i think that first generation of lock module was poorly designed... will see how does last model...hehe
 

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today i was repairing my steering wheel lock all morning . when i was about to give up i found the problem...on the circut board inside lock modul there was board connection fried, and one transistor that operates with motor relay. after soldering it together lock engaged locking but then didnt unlock. so i decided to unsolder this connection and now i have lock module that doesnt work and its in unlock position all the time, but on screen i still have notification for service steering column lock...but now my ampera is drivable...possible reasons for that problems are white motor relay burned, locking motor bad, or damadged circut board. what i learned this morning:
if i get notification but car drives then the modul stayed in unlocked position
if i get permanent fault and car is undrivable then modul stayed in locked position
its possible to dismantle modul and put it in whatever position we want (unlock is better hehe) by opening the modul and put 12v directly on motor pins...
now i wil order new locking module but just need one info from you guys: will new module work without any reprogramming or not...i dont want to pay money to opel service they will just rape me till the end...and what is the right code number?
Simply plugging in a new module unbricked my car immediately. It had been stuck in Park, even though the steering lock module had failed in the unlocked position.
I quoted the part number & supplier in another thread, (or maybe even in this one round about last christmas.)
 

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Simply plugging in a new module unbricked my car immediately. It had been stuck in Park, even though the steering lock module had failed in the unlocked position.
I quoted the part number & supplier in another thread, (or maybe even in this one round about last christmas.)
Heres the post:
I've just been speaking to Genuine Parts Search (Autovaux) and have ordered a new steering column module.
They have access to the Vauxhall catalogue and they tell me the correct part number for my 2014 Ampera is 23203935.
As my lock has failed in the unlocked position, I am hoping that just plugging in the new unit will get the car mobile. I'll let you all know if it works or not next week.


Best to phone Autovaux, as when I spoke to them, they found the above part number themselves, and told me that the other numbers I was giving them (glleaned from this forum & ebay) were not right. The lock they sent me worked fine.
Good luck!
 

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when you get a fault like steering wheel lock and lock stays in locked position then car is undriveable (LOCKED STEERING) so it is good its undriveable. the computer switches to accesory mode or even to service mode (not sure) then car will not drive and shift gear will not be movable...(just safety)
...but if it stays in unlocked position then you get only warning and car drives normally, but when you power it down steering column will not be locked (i like this even better)....hmmmm.... who is gonna steal the car worth nothing and constantly breaking down...???hahahaha....:p:D:cool:
 

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update on a steering wheel lock module...
first pic is what i found in repair manual , it shows two fuses responsible for locking modul and second pic is what i see inside lock module how motor is controlled via big white double relay.
if we send 12v pulse to relay1 it will lock, after pulse relay 1 falls back down. when we want to unlock then we send 12v pulse on relay 2, and voltage on motor reverses. so in my oppinion after many pulses the relay contacts NO gets fried and possibly motor too. so i wil try to replace motor and relay and i think this should work then, as a little upgrade i will put in a resistor of 2-6 ohms 5w (R) in series with motor and with that i will reduce current that motor pulls. there should be allready a NTC resistor in series with motor. Motor will then operate with less current and rpm and all components should last longer...
third is relay opened...
 

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Sounds good on paper, I'm not sure you will get enough torque from the motor if you limit the current to actually unlock it if there is side stress on the locking pin.
But well done for unpicking it as I said in an earlier post is just a flip flop.
 

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when you get a fault like steering wheel lock and lock stays in locked position then car is undriveable (LOCKED STEERING) so it is good its undriveable. the computer switches to accesory mode or even to service mode (not sure) then car will not drive and shift gear will not be movable...(just safety)
...but if it stays in unlocked position then you get only warning and car drives normally, but when you power it down steering column will not be locked (i like this even better)....hmmmm.... who is gonna steal the car worth nothing and constantly breaking down...???hahahaha....:p:D:cool:
Trustme, the car is bricked even if the module fails in the unlocked position.
 
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