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I've just had this brick my car for the 1st time (MY13 Volt). I did notice the lock motor start sounding lethargic or almost not sounding at all - but as no error message appeared I thought I'd get away with it! Today had the error and a bricked car. Been trying to remove the module to inspect (following service manual as above post) but I haven't managed to get those shear bolts off. Very awkward location too... Plus I had to disconnect the battery to remove airbag module, remembering not to shut the boot with battery disconnected... Not a fun day :(
 

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Best way is to use angle grinder and grind them off. If it died in unlocked position just lift it and take out.
If it died in locked position then u need to break off six aluminium nipples on lock because u cannot lift it.
When i get new one i will grind off all six before i mount it to have less work when it dies again...bummer
 

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Best way is to use angle grinder and grind them off. If it died in unlocked position just lift it and take out.
If it died in locked position then u need to break off six aluminium nipples on lock because u cannot lift it.
When i get new one i will grind off all six before i mount it to have less work when it dies again...bummer
Thanks, I think the module is still working 50% time so hopefully can get it to open - but would like to get those bolts off first. Think I will borrow an angle grinder like you say, just spent 1/2 an hour with a hacksaw lying in the foot-well trying to cut a groove - but still won't budge!
 

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First try to put grinder on bolts and train your moves without power. Then look for where the sparks will fly. Then protect carpet with some non burning material so u dont set a carpet on fire. Grinding screws is not hard i did it in 5 min.make sure u doit when lock is in unlocked position or u will be in trouble.
Try to unlock it then remove minus on 12 v battery then go grinding. Easyest way i can think . Before u install new lock in grind off six nipples so u dont have problems later and then just use normal screws.
Good luck with a job
Regards
 

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Mine seems to be more reliable since I sprayed grease inside the silver box
Did you remove the unit to spray inside? I'm hoping to 'refurb' the unit if I can get it off. Though admittedly I'm no expert on motors, I'm hoping there might be be something visible externally to the motor casing. But also once the old unit is off, then it's simple to fit a new one if need be (and I won't be ordering any of these damned shear bolts!).
 

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No, couldn't work out how to remove it (hmm shear bolts, no wonder!). I used aeresol spray grease with a straw attachment. I poked the straw inside the silver box approximately where the mechanism engages the column and gave it a blast. So far so good!
 

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So I eventually managed to grind off those shear bolts (thanks for the advice @wolfer11) - certainly not an easy job if like me you haven't much experience with a grinder (particularly as only approx 1-2cm between the bolt and the brake pedal! . I would recommend anyone doing this to first try make a groove in the bolt and use a tool to unscrew the bolt. (I tried this unsuccessfully, but with some better tools it might be possible).

Inside the unit I couldn't see anything amiss - all the parts looked as freshly greased as the day they were made. I can only conclude the motor itself has lost torque as @HandyAndy suggested in his tear-down of the motor earlier. Not knowing where to start in sourcing a replacement motor - (any help with this appreciated) I simply removed the locking nib (2nd photo) from the unit and reassembled. The hope is that as the motor does not have to move this nib it will continued to operate for some time. Indeed so far it has worked. I also imagine that removing the nib has the same effect as grinding off the six nipples @wolfer11 was referring to?

For the record car is a MY13 Volt, and the part number of the module is 22875664.
Module unit.jpg Lock nib.jpg
 

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Now I understand why others can open their lock and I cannot. This one I purchased via Ebay isn't screwed but uses tension pins.

Part number 23484342. I haven't tried it yet as my original one is only cranky but still operates.

EDIT After reading page 9 earlier in this thread I see reported that the original one was 22875664 and replaced with 23377962 but the invoice used the number 23484342 which is the one I have.
Also noted that the module is keyed so if mine does need replacing then the soldering iron will need to come out for a very difficult swap of the controller chip! :eek:

20191120_085224.jpg
 

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Not knowing where to start in sourcing a replacement motor
I understand a Scalextric car would be a good start. RS Components do a line in these motors as did Maplin.
 

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... Not knowing where to start in sourcing a replacement motor - (any help with this appreciated)...

For the record car is a MY13 Volt, and the part number of the module is 22875664...
FWIW the motor used in the original mechanism looks like this,
124906

pic from Wolfer I believe - thanks!)

and the armature looks like this:
124907

(my original one I stripped)

so eBay for "FC-280SC-22125" and you'll get a ton of hits. There's a spline on the shaft under that brass worm gear, so I think you need one with close to 20mm shaft. I can't see a hit with precisely 22125 as the last few digits.
Some have 280SC , some 280PC, maybe S is Splined, P is Plain? Caveat emptor! Shaft dia is 2mm on mine, at least that looks pretty standard!
 

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Thanks everyone... Interesting that Russ's module is not closed with screws, does that make it impossible to open without causing damage? I think I will take my unit out again this evening and confirm the internal motor is identical to HandyAndy's before proceeding. It does seem a challenge to find an exact match for that motor. The only website I can find with an exact match for the full code is https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32872181147.html - but the photos and diagram (dimensions) do not match - neither does it come with the brass worm gear (but can that be easily swapped?).

It does seem the different codes could be significant differences (such as speed and torque characteristics) so not sure if it will be possible to use anything other than an exact match. (I found this information - admittedly with no proof of validity- on a very old Civic owner club site)

FC-280PC-22125 (same as FC-280PT-22125, but without the brass collar which you can get off your old motor)
FC-280SC-22125 similar to the PC, but slightly lower RPM/Torque
FC-280PT-20150 ... similar to the PC/SC, but the shaft comes out of the BELL end of the motor
 

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It's not hard to remove the gear. If it's a loose fit on new shaft, file a flat where it goes, then tin the flat with solder. I recommend Weller 150W soldering gun. Then apply flux to tinned area, heat shaft with soldering gun as you press gear on. Gear will be attached solidly when you remove heat. Clip forceps or similar to act as heatsink at bell end of shaft so you don't melt it.
 

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Thanks for help with your board andy. I plugged it in and it locked but now it doesnt want to unlock, so im not done yet. In manual it says it has a position control in it but cannot find anything like that inside...but i did notice one strange thing.
Just under removable locking pin they inserted a magnet. Could this magnet be somekind of a magnetic actuator for a switch somewhere on board or even mounted on a steering wheel column to indicate position of a locking pin???
Whats your oppinion on that?
Regards
 

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When I took mine apart it appeared the magnet would cause the locking pin to remain in a locked position unless the motor forces it down against the magnet. Of course it could be the magnet has dual purposes...
 

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I couldn't see any sign of a limit-switch on the module I dismantled. I believe some people have removed the entire unit away from the steering column, and it's still worked. I rather doubt there's a magnet-sensing hall-effect switch in the steering column itself - tat would be too high tech & fancy for GM I think! Don't forget, the USA Volts don't have this item at all.

The magnet might be there to a) act as anti-rattle device, or b) hold something in position when the motor is powered down & providing zero torque. Does this magnet move with the locking bolt? Is there any suitable steel around for it to be attracted to, and what is that bit of steel doing? If magnet is stationary, and steel is locking pin that moves, I think it's anti-rattle.
 

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Its located just under locking pin and moves with it inside aluminium pushscrew allmost touching the pcb board...hmmmm....
15745423685683005334827319936379.jpg
 

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I wonder if it's acting as a spring, designed to move the locking bar into the slot in the steering column. If you park, and lock the column, at some non-straight angle of the steering wheel, presumably the locking pin cannot go into the slot in the steering column, as the two don't line up. If someone attempt to steal car and turns the wheel, there has to be some kind of spring tp push the locking bar into the steering column, even if there's no power anywhere. Perhaps that's what this is for, and why there's a magnet. That alloy bit seems to have a large amount of backlash play in it, which would fit this theory.
 
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