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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
just in case anyone has experienced the same - I experienced "Stop: Electric Motor Failure" a couple of months ago - I was trying to start the car. The car just freewheeled. I waited about 20 minutes and it fixed itself.

10 days ago I got the same error while driving along - but the car carried on moving fine (still OK at 30mph, not "limping"). I phoned up Renault Assistance the next day, they took it to the garage, I got a rental car from Enterprise. That was a Thursday.

The following Tuesday I got the car back - the garage said they'd contacted Renault in France, and they'd told them "it's a software problem" and told them to update the software.

The car worked for 3 days. On Friday night, the error came back. Yesterday (Saturday) I called Renault Assistance. The car has gone back to the garage. We'll see if they can fix it.

What seems weird to me is that the car drives, despite showing "Stop: Electric Motor Failure". Plus the fact that the fault is intermittent.
I'm crossing my fingers...

The only thing that makes sense to me is an intermittent fault in the rotation sensor. Or I suppose the 12V battery could be at fault? Both faults occurred after a 70 mile drive with headlights on. The battery showed 13.2V though.

Alan
 

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Not knowing how it is sensored, but presuming it has a single sensor for rotation, the error could actually be elsewhere, the lack of rotation could be down to, for instance, the inverter. If the failure mode cannot be detected at the inverter, the first fault logged would be the motor.

Good luck getting that sorted, you may well find yourself in a hire car for weeks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Not knowing how it is sensored, but presuming it has a single sensor for rotation, the error could actually be elsewhere, the lack of rotation could be down to, for instance, the inverter. If the failure mode cannot be detected at the inverter, the first fault logged would be the motor.

Good luck getting that sorted, you may well find yourself in a hire car for weeks!
Thanks Scott! I've read the other threads about this - I hadn't noticed people saying "the motor carried on running as usual", normally it limped, or just didn't move. That's what I was really curious about, if others had an apparently usable car with the scary red light permanently on.

Alan
P.S. Perhaps I'd better start reading up on my consumer rights - it's only 7 months old.
 

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Just to check the obvious - the 12v battery is OK?

When mine went the whole dash lit up like a Christmas tree.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just to check the obvious - the 12v battery is OK?

When mine went the whole dash lit up like a Christmas tree.
I think it's OK. I charged the car overnight and it measured 13.4V (charging overnight didn't remove the STOP Electric Motor Failure - but the car could still be driven onto the low loader to go to the garage). The dash didn't light up in an unusual way, just the big red warning.

Alan
 

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it measured 13.4V
It's difficult to measure the 12V battery voltage on the Zoe. The minute you do anything, such as opening a door, the 12V charger is activated to charge the 12V battery from the traction battery.

The simplest approach I've found is to buy a voltmeter to plug into the cigarette lighter, leaving it visible from outside the car. If you unlock the doors then you get a few seconds to read the 12V battery voltage before the charger kicks in. EDIT: You need to leave the car for 10 minutes or so, for everything to shut down, before doing this.

@yoh-there will tell you that just checking the battery voltage is not sufficient: you also need to get it load tested. I agree, but testing the battery voltage is a reasonable starting point. If the resting voltage is at or under 12V you definitely have a problem. It should be between about 12.2 (preferably 12.4) and 12.8 volts. But if you think it is suspect, get it load tested as well.
 

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Co-author of CanZE. Q210 nov 2013
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I am fairly sure it can't be the rotation (position) sensor on the motor. As ZOE's motor is synchronous it can't really operate without a working position sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It's difficult to measure the 12V battery voltage on the Zoe. The minute you do anything, such as opening a door, the 12V charger is activated to charge the 12V battery from the traction battery.

The simplest approach I've found is to buy a voltmeter to plug into the cigarette light, leaving it visible from outside the car. If you unlock the doors then you get a few seconds to read the 12V battery voltage before the charger kicks in.

@yoh-there will tell you that just checking the battery voltage is not sufficient: you also need to get it load tested. I agree, but testing the battery voltage is a reasonable starting point. If the resting voltage is at or under 12V you definitely have a problem. It should be between about 12.2 (preferably 12.4) and 12.8 volts. But if you think it is suspect, get it load tested as well.
OK, I bought a cigarette lighter voltmeter after the first failure - but I guess I just measured the charger voltage. When I get the car back, I'll try and check voltage of the battery from outside the car as you describe.

It's interesting that both failures were after long journeys in the dark, which presumably stresses the 12V battery. I'll have to see what the garage say first.

After the second failure yesterday, I did connect Canze but as far as I could tell there were no diagnostic codes,despite the big red light being on. Which puzzles me.

Alan
 

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"Stop: Electric Motor Failure" is triggered by low 12V battery, but the battery itself may not be the cause of the problem.

Mine got the same error message and it cleared after a full charge. However, at one point the error message decided to stick around for several days; the car drove super fine for a while, nothing I was worried about personally. I took it by myself to the garage, maybe it really needed at new 12V battery, and after diagnosis it came back with DC-DC bridge failure (transforming the 400V from traction battery to 12V for the auxiliary battery). This can show up as a drainage of the 12V battery, but Renault was adamant that the car will not move and I get a manual gearbox Skoda for two days. The garage had to replace the entire motor-inverter assembly, as the DC/DC converter was not designed as a replaceable module. Cost? 5k eur, under warranty though. (https://www.speakev.com/threads/stop-electric-failure-danger.132304/page-3#post-2579324)

Wish you the best with it! :) I hope it's only the 12V battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I got a phone call from the garage today saying that Renault had advised them to replace the motor. So perhaps it's the same fault (DC-DC bridge). As an engineer I'd like them to tell me exactly what they've done.
I guess if this keeps happening they might design the car to be more maintainable, it'll save them money...
Alan
 

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I too have had this problem but it has now been fixed.

The first time it happened the fault would flash on the display a few times but nothing else seemed to happen. I reported it to Renault but as the fault had gone away I knew I'd be wasting my time in asking the to look at anything.
The next time it happened, on the way to work, the fault came on and stayed on. The car still seemed to drive fine and as I had a dongle in the car for CanZE I thought it was handy to pull over and read any error codes just in case the fault cleared again. Once I had pulled over and stopped the car went in to a mode that prevented the car from moving again leaving me suddenly and unexpectedly stranded.
Biggest lesson I can give to anyone is that if you get this fault and it doesn't seem to have done anything is to pull over at a sensible place! I assume this message puts the car in to a "keep going for now" mode but once you stop at a junction/traffic light/roundabout you could find yourself suddenly going nowhere.

To cut this story down alot, once the dealer had looked at it. They found there were interlock errors logged in the ECU. They took apart all of the HV cable connectors from the battery to the motor. They couldn't find anything specific but putting it back together has clearly fixed the problem and it must have be an intermittent connection. That was a few months ago now and the car has been fine ever since.

My car is under the extended warranty but as they didn't change a part the warranty company isn't paying out even though the warranty clearly states the car is covered if it becomes "outside of manufactures specification" (pretty sure being dead on the side of the road qualifies) and it's cost me £263 for the Renault dealer to do "diagnostic checks" which even though it fixed the problem apparently aren't covered. The case is currently with the ombudsman but until it comes to a conclusion I'll leave that for another post.
 

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I got a phone call from the garage today saying that Renault had advised them to replace the motor. So perhaps it's the same fault (DC-DC bridge). As an engineer I'd like them to tell me exactly what they've done.
I guess if this keeps happening they might design the car to be more maintainable, it'll save them money...
Alan
Hi,

ive just had the same error on our Zoe.
The dealer arranged for it to be recovered. Almost 2 weeks in and they have replaced the whole electric motor and now stating that they need to replace the pec unit.

I am a little concerned as after reading other people’s experiences of replacing the PEC unit, it seems to drive like a milk float above 40mph.
Should I be concerned?
 

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Ours had the PEC / PEB (I forget which is which...) changed a year or so ago and there was no difference afterwards. (Except for the fact it didn't keep going wrong, obviously)
 

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PEC: all-in-one box on the R models
PEB: what's in the PEC (read: all power electronics), minus the charger. Only relevant for Q models
IOW: PEC (on R) = PEB+BCB (on Q)
 

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I think the post PEC change milk float experience was due to dealer error in not fitting it properly. It isn't meant to be like that :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just to update this: the week before Christmas, I got confirmation that the replacement motor had arrived. However the garage said that the car had been outside in the rain and water leaked in through the windscreen on the passenger side, so they would replace the windscreen. Also they'd take out the carpets to dry, which meant removing the seat, which meant they have to replace the seatbelt(!).

Anyway, the car left me (for the second time) on 7th December, and I got it back on 30th December. It's apparently working, though the true test will be a long journey in the dark to stress the 12V battery charging.

The good news was that I got a free rental car for my long journey at Christmas, which meant I could cancel the rental I'd already paid for...
 
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