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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm stranded in a petrol station near Dawlish on a Sunday with an error message of "battery saver active" the car won't do anything.
AA are on their way but if I get it recovered to home I then have to get it transported to Bellinger (70 miles) if I get it recovered to Bellinger then I have to find my way home.
I have no idea how I will get to work!
It makes you realise how much we all need our cars .
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cheers guys
I did disconnect the battery but probably not for long enough.
When the AA gets here I will suggest that.
It would be good if that was all it was .
Now where to get a battery at 4 on a Sunday!
:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well I'm home now with the car :)

A massive thanks to you guys for your help and advice.

When the AA guy turned up I suggested it may be a flat 12v battery so he connected his booster pack under the bonnet and this allowed the car to be switched off. (It was stuck in a loop and would not shut down).
I thought this was a really good sign.
Next he measured the voltage on the 12v battery.............7v! well you were correct @Jack
He connected his van up to my battery to charge it a bit and measured 43A current.
That indicated the battery was taking some charge.
After 10 mins he disconnected and tried the car. Perfect:)
He measured the current being supplied by the car to the battery at 50A.
Anyway it got me home without issue and it is now on the drive with a charger on the 12v battery.
Tomorrow I will be sorting out a new battery.

It got me thinking about a couple of weird things that happened last week.
  1. It did not charge one night even though the green light indicated it was charging.
  2. Saturday the warning bong started but there was no message to say what it was!
As far as I am aware it is the original battery so 6 years is probably pretty good.

Once again a big thanks to all you that offered advice. You helped me out massively. I could have still been trying to get a train from Wantage to Cheltenham at this time on a Sunday! and no car to get to work.

Yet again this just goes to show how fantastic these forums are and collectively how much knowledge is on here.

I ow you guys a beer. I need to organise another "Critical Mass" meeting to put things straight.

Thanks again

Will
 

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10,000,000 lines of code, so advanced only a handful of garages will look after it and it's felled by a piece of kit from the 1850's :(

I'm sticking to my ad-hock solution of changing the 12v battery, no matter what, every 3 years. :cautious:
 

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6 years.... Wow not bad.

The fundimental issue is it seems the interconnectors will work at below 10v*
So a voltage that would fell an ice allows the Ampera to keep on limping on.

The computers however....

*it was Actully the average of the battery and the 14v dc to dc inverter so ~8v? IANAE.
Note:you CAN jump-start from an ampera... Wouldn't recommend it though.
 

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I wouldn't normally bother changing anything till it's at least showing signs of being broke but this battery seems to be at the root of so much I will change it soon on my 15 reg/MY 12 (IIRC) car. I was parked in an underground car park in central London tonight and it crossed my mind what would do if the car had died there ( - I do have breakdown cover but I'd sooner not engage them to see how crap their service is!!)
 

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It's funny how we lump around a big battery pack in any phev or bev But still have to carry around a tripe old lead acid! Surely there has to be a better way to have our vehicles just run front the bigger packz maybe changing the amount of juice left at the bottom of the battery before it won't drivez from say 5 to 10% maybe?
 

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The reason for a secondary battery may be more to do with safety than anything else. I think the designers wish to isolate the traction (high voltage) battery when off. The secondary battery is used to power the electronics enough to close the contactor(s) and start up the car.

The question should be asked why use lead acid technology in EV's as it seems to give trouble early in the supposed life of the battery. Could a NiCad or Lithium type be used? the Nimh cells appear to have high self discharge so perhaps not ideal. The early NiFe battery type might be a candidate. All would need different change controllers.

One thing though is obvious Lead acid is cheap! There is a reliable cell out there (NiH) used in satellites, the Hubble ones were changed out at 19 years and still working, but they are a tad expensive.
 

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I just left my MY'13 at LHR long stay for a week, left it with 1/2 full traction battery, and I do have a lithium jump pack in the boot for good measure, hope I don't have to use it.
 

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The reason for a secondary battery may be more to do with safety than anything else. I think the designers wish to isolate the traction (high voltage) battery when off. The secondary battery is used to power the electronics enough to close the contactor(s) and start up the car.

The question should be asked why use lead acid technology in EV's as it seems to give trouble early in the supposed life of the battery. Could a NiCad or Lithium type be used? the Nimh cells appear to have high self discharge so perhaps not ideal. The early NiFe battery type might be a candidate. All would need different change controllers.

One thing though is obvious Lead acid is cheap! There is a reliable cell out there (NiH) used in satellites, the Hubble ones were changed out at 19 years and still working, but they are a tad expensive.
A 4s LiFePo4 would be a drop in replacement voltage wise... Easily available for motorcycles.
 
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