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You are making a bit too much of this. It's not rocket science. Clean the area. A finger full of common or garden grease blobbed on the bolt/nut and covered by any old pot that is a push fit.

But also spend a bit of time poking out the drain hole inside the windscreen wiper spindle area as water running off the windscreen can overflow into the 'engine' bay if the drain is blocked and get into sensitive electrics. You will probably find that the drain hole is blocked by a winged sycamore seed.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
You are making a bit too much of this. It's not rocket science. Clean the area. A finger full of common or garden grease blobbed on the bolt/nut and covered by any old pot that is a push fit.

But also spend a bit of time poking out the drain hole inside the windscreen wiper spindle area as water running off the windscreen can overflow into the 'engine' bay if the drain is blocked and get into sensitive electrics. You will probably find that the drain hole is blocked by a winged sycamore seed.
Noted re the drain hole and sensitive electrics.

I suppose I鈥檓 asking do I need to do wd 40 and grease or just grease?
 

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I suppose I鈥檓 asking do I need to do wd 40 and grease or just grease?
This is all about keeping the area free from moisture and to prevent rust developing. WD stands for "water displacing" and its main use is as a solvent or rust dissolver. Physically clean the area, possibly using a toothbrush to dislodge any flakes of rust, then apply a light spray of classic WD40. Allow it to evaporate over 20 minutes then give the area another good brushing with an old stiff toothbrush or similar. Clean out any debris released by the WD40 action. Then apply a good blob of any kind of grease that is to hand onto the central bolt and nut. Cover the entire area with a suitably sized upturned pot that is a push fit on the circular outer area. Replace the plastic triangular grill and forget about it for a year or so.

But remember to regularly check the drain hole in the wiper spindle base as it will get blocked at various seasons as seeds and leaves fall in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
This is all about keeping the area free from moisture and to prevent rust developing. WD stands for "water displacing" and its main use is as a solvent or rust dissolver. Physically clean the area, possibly using a toothbrush to dislodge any flakes of rust, then apply a light spray of classic WD40. Allow it to evaporate over 20 minutes then give the area another good brushing with an old stiff toothbrush or similar. Clean out any debris released by the WD40 action. Then apply a good blob of any kind of grease that is to hand onto the central bolt and nut. Cover the entire area with a suitably sized upturned pot that is a push fit on the circular outer area. Replace the plastic triangular grill and forget about it for a year or so.

But remember to regularly check the drain hole in the wiper spindle base as it will get blocked at various seasons as seeds and leaves fall in there.
THANK YOU.

this is the explanation I needed 馃馃馃お馃槣

will give it a go.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
If you want yoghurt pots Muller Light will work (just look for the individual ones rather than the multi packs which are fixed together - and remember to wash them out before fitting!). For a more aesthetic solution see here Front Suspension Strut Covers for Nissan LEAF | eBay
I got an individual pot of muller light. Tried it and it鈥檚 too small. It鈥檚 the 160 gram size. What鈥檚 the size of the one you got?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
See attached. This is the grease I have, it came with a lidl drill. Is this ok?
1B012E17-B66E-4A49-B6CB-923235CE6C4D.jpeg
 

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You are making a bit too much of this. It's not rocket science. Clean the area. A finger full of common or garden grease blobbed on the bolt/nut and covered by any old pot that is a push fit.

But also spend a bit of time poking out the drain hole inside the windscreen wiper spindle area as water running off the windscreen can overflow into the 'engine' bay if the drain is blocked and get into sensitive electrics. You will probably find that the drain hole is blocked by a winged sycamore seed.
The drain to the wheel arch also can get blocked up.
 

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The drain to the wheel arch also can get blocked up.
That is also the route mice use to access the car interior. Once they have got through the drain hole there is a large rectangular hole which is the fresh air access to the heater. I had mice fill up the blower fan with acorns etc. Fortunately the dealer accepted it as a warranty claim and cleaned the heater out.

I have now fitted some mesh over both holes to prevent further trouble.
 

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There is a similar thread on the 40Kwh, where I posted this, so thought I would post here as well, it may help somebody.


I had an idea for a cheap, practical solution for a strut cover that I have used, so thought I would post and share.

Firstly you need 4 packs of Bostik Blue Tack (economy packs are a quid each at poundland)
Secondly a new plastic sandwich of freezer bag.

Open 2 packs of Blue Tack and remove the grease proof paper from one side only and slide into the plastic bag.

Now fold over the opening of the plastic bag and any other slack and Sellotape down well to made air tight.

Remove the struct cover and make sure that the strut recess that holds water is perfectly dry ( I used a cloth to dry it out and put the hairdryer on it to make sure)

Now slide the pack into the hole and position so that the middle of the pack is in the middle of the strut recess with the greaseproof paper side upper most. Now get your hand inside and using your fingers, form the pack well onto the strut recess and surrounding area.

Repeat for the other strut recess.

Once done, it won't move or rattle about and the water will drip onto the plastic bag and run away keeping the recess nice and dry. If access is needed it, easily pulls off, cheap effective solution.

Please don't be tempted to fill the cavity with grease, it may appear to be a simple solution but over time you will get debris, pollen seeds, insects, leaves etc inside that need clearing out and all these will stick to the grease and make things very awkward.
 

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yeah. That鈥檚 the one I got.Is it supposed to fit in the
Inner circle
Outer circle
Or the kinda oval shape thing inside the circle.
As I said in post #23 - " Cover the entire area with a suitably sized upturned pot that is a push fit on the circular outer area."

I fitted mine some five years ago on a Leaf that has now gone to a new owner. Yoghurt pots will have changed in that time so you must take measurements and visit a supermarket to select a pot that fits near enough. Or, cut a couple of inches from the base from a 2 litre coke bottle or similar that is also about the right size. But it must enclose the entire outer circular area and be a firm push fit there.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
It is the 160 gram size. You need the round pots not the "fixed" multi pack ones that need to snapped apart.
yeah. That鈥檚 the one I got.Is it supposed to fit in the
Inner circle
Outer circle
Or the oval shape thing inside the circle.
There is a similar thread on the 40Kwh, where I posted this, so thought I would post here as well, it may help somebody.


I had an idea for a cheap, practical solution for a strut cover that I have used, so thought I would post and share.

Firstly you need 4 packs of Bostik Blue Tack (economy packs are a quid each at poundland)
Secondly a new plastic sandwich of freezer bag.

Open 2 packs of Blue Tack and remove the grease proof paper from one side only and slide into the plastic bag.

Now fold over the opening of the plastic bag and any other slack and Sellotape down well to made air tight.

Remove the struct cover and make sure that the strut recess that holds water is perfectly dry ( I used a cloth to dry it out and put the hairdryer on it to make sure)

Now slide the pack into the hole and position so that the middle of the pack is in the middle of the strut recess with the greaseproof paper side upper most. Now get your hand inside and using your fingers, form the pack well onto the strut recess and surrounding area.

Repeat for the other strut recess.

Once done, it won't move or rattle about and the water will drip onto the plastic bag and run away keeping the recess nice and dry. If access is needed it, easily pulls off, cheap effective solution.

Please don't be tempted to fill the cavity with grease, it may appear to be a simple solution but over time you will get debris, pollen seeds, insects, leaves etc inside that need clearing out and all these will stick to the grease and make things very awkward.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
There is a similar thread on the 40Kwh, where I posted this, so thought I would post here as well, it may help somebody.


I had an idea for a cheap, practical solution for a strut cover that I have used, so thought I would post and share.

Firstly you need 4 packs of Bostik Blue Tack (economy packs are a quid each at poundland)
Secondly a new plastic sandwich of freezer bag.

Open 2 packs of Blue Tack and remove the grease proof paper from one side only and slide into the plastic bag.

Now fold over the opening of the plastic bag and any other slack and Sellotape down well to made air tight.

Remove the struct cover and make sure that the strut recess that holds water is perfectly dry ( I used a cloth to dry it out and put the hairdryer on it to make sure)

Now slide the pack into the hole and position so that the middle of the pack is in the middle of the strut recess with the greaseproof paper side upper most. Now get your hand inside and using your fingers, form the pack well onto the strut recess and surrounding area.

Repeat for the other strut recess.

Once done, it won't move or rattle about and the water will drip onto the plastic bag and run away keeping the recess nice and dry. If access is needed it, easily pulls off, cheap effective solution.

Please don't be tempted to fill the cavity with grease, it may appear to be a simple solution but over time you will get debris, pollen seeds, insects, leaves etc inside that need clearing out and all these will stick to the grease and make things very awkward.
Are you totally advising against using grease?
 

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Are you totally advising against using grease?
Please don't get wrong, grease is okay, in that it does the job of keeping water out of the cavity and anti corrosion, and is what I used with my 40Kwh LEAF. The problem I found was that cleaning out the hole was a nightmare, seeds, pollen dust and insects would find there way into the hole and stick to the grease. Trying to clean it out, the grease would get on my hands, so had to wear disposable gloves and the whole thing became really annoying.

When I up graded to the 62Kwh a couple of months ago, I was determined not to repeat the grease mistake again, so came up with the blue tack solution, I have seen similar to this used in military applications, instead of blue tack they use plastic explosive, but the same idea.

Used it for a couple of months now, no hassles what so ever, cleaned it out his morning, some leaves in there and dust, just gave it a quick wipe out with a damp micro fibre cloth, couldn't do that with grease.

Tried up turned empty yogurt pots but finding the right fit, then securing in place so it wouldn't rattle around was awkward.
 
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