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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Long read, but thought it may be useful for other M3 owners if the same problems arise.

Had an interesting few days with the M3. It's barely 5 weeks old, with 324 miles on the clock and has generally been great. Overall very impressed. Or I was until last Thursday evening.

Car was parked outside my flat. Went to drive to the supermarket. As i shifted into D, I heard an almighty thump/clunk from the rear of the car. Initially I thought someone had reversed into me, but when I realised not and tried to drive off, the car wouldn't move. Screen was on, windows and doors worked fine, the car just wouldn't move in D or R.

Various restarts/power downs, exit and re-entries did nothing. I then had 3 error messages appear on the screen (attached) HVP_w028 (vehicle may not restart), BMS_a059 (vehicle may not restart) & VCFRONT_a192 (electrical power system reduced). I googled these and saw some references to rear drive unit problems and possibly pyro fuses blowing.

Called Tesla for recovery and they were very good. I didn't need to go anywhere that night, so said recovery the following morning would be fine. Nearest service centre was Crawley.

Recovery vehicle arrived around 11 and thats when the fun started. I got in expecting to put it in towing mode and away we'd go. After the screen came on, it quickly went off then wouldn't wake up. Doors wouldn't open. Driver window opened itself slightly. Nothing else. Recovery guy had a bit of experience with EV's and said hooking a battery booster to the 12V may put enough juice in to at least get the screen on. If that didn't work, he'd have to call a bigger truck to crane it onto a flatbed. Next challenge was opening the bonnet with no power. Repeated attempts on the moblie app wouldn't work, until i got lucky and it magically worked (useful note for the future - in the towing eye cover there are +/- wires which you can hook up to a booster to pop the bonnet).

Eventually we got the booster connected, got some power to the 12V and managed to get the screen working. First thing I saw were a lot of further error messages - VCFRONT_a182 (12V battery must be replaced soon), HVP_w028 (vehicle may not restart), EPBR_a179 (Parking brake functions degraded), RCM2_a254 (eCall emergency call system is not available), VCFRONT_a180 (Electrical system power reduced), DIF_a062 (power reduced), VCFRONT_a191 (Electrical system power reduced).

Then we had to figure out how to put it, and keep it, in towing mode. After about god knows how many attempts with foot on the brake pedal, turning towing mode on, releasing brake so it could move, forcing the steering when power steering wasn't working, it finally moved. It had taken an hour to get it onto the back of the tow truck.

When we got to the service centre (quicker than it took to load the car), the service team had the same issues unloading as I had loading.12V booster to the +/- wires in the towing eye hole popped the bonnet (lesson learned) but it didn't put enough juice in to wake up the screen. Took about 30 mins of restarts, power downs, service codes, another 12V booster to eventually get it into towing mode and get it off the truck.

The service team were generally really good. Had a loaner Model S ready for me to use (good fun, if a bit dated at at least 5 years old and has issues keeping charge). Got a call the next day saying various replacement parts had been ordered and it should be ready in a week. The issue seems to have been a faulty rear drive unit, which caused a pyro fuse to blow to prevent high voltage causing issues. This meant the 12V couldn't be charged by the HV battery and nothing would work, until a 12V booster was connected.

No idea why the rear drive unit failed on such a new car but hopefully that'll be the end of the problems when I get it back.

Hopefully no one else will have the same bad luck, but if you do get the same issues this may be of use.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Interestingly something I discovered when trying to load my M3 onto the truck and seems to have picked up traction online today:

When the drive unit and pyro fuse blew, it meant the 12V battery would no longer take charge. So when I tried to get it into towing mode, there was no power at all, to motors, screen, doors etc. This led to the next issue. The electric door opening button wouldn’t work, but the window had opened slightly for safety. I eventually remembered the manual latch and got out.

I remembered Elon talking about a double failsafe/redundancy which would ensure there was power to the rear doors in the event of a crash/accident. Turns out if you experience the issues I did, there is no redundancy power to open the rear doors. Which raised the question of what happens if you drive the car into water, adult passengers in the back, total power failure as above? It’s sounds far fetched but it does happen. If driver and front passenger were incapacitated/unconscious, are the rear passengers expected to climb into the front, over driver/passenger and open the doors and escape that way?

Does seem like a glaring oversight/omission to not have a have manual latch on the rear doors. Even if they have the fallback of ‘child safety locks’.
 

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I had a similar issue with mine after I'd had it for 2 days and done less than 50 miles. Totally dead when I approached. Recovery ended up dragging it on to back of flat bed as we couldn't get it in tow mode. Apparently at the SC they had to manually release the parking brake to get it off the truck. Ended up with a new rear motor.
 

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Which raised the question of what happens if you drive the car into water, adult passengers in the back, total power failure as above? It’s sounds far fetched but it does happen
I guess we had better ban 2/3 door cars from sale too then?
 
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Which raised the question of what happens if you drive the car into water, adult passengers in the back
You are done for in most modern cars either in the front or back unless you can wind the windows down as the water pressure will hold the doors shut.

Interesting that the recovery people don't carry "dollies" to move an immobile car. Within the workshops these are used all of the time and are inexpensive to buy at around £500 a set for the self-lifting type.
 

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I got stuck in ours a couple of weekends ago, in a supermarket car park.

Given the restrictions on no more than two people in the shop at a time, my wife and daughter went in and knowing the car auto locks when she walks away, my wife left me a Tesla key card.

They walked off, and all was well as I sat there on my phone, probably disagreeing with somebody on here about ID.3s, but anyway, I digress! 😀.

After a few minutes, the car locked, the wing mirrors came in. No problem I thought, just put the key card near the cup holders and it’ll open up. But no. Pressing the door button didn’t do anything, I was in the back and the child locks are on, but couldn't open the window to grab the handle from outside. It was locked, and I was locked in it, even though I had a card.

Them the alarm went off. Great!

What a daft design, if indeed that is by design.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I guess we had better ban 2/3 door cars from sale too then?
I think the difference is that in many other cars, they still have a mechanical door handle which is intuitive to use. In a Tesla the driver will likely know about the manual latch, as may the passenger if they are a regular traveller. For those in the back, climbing through, you have no hope of working it out quickly if needed. Maybe we need to start doing pre-drive/ in-flight safety demo like you have on a plane!
 

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I got stuck in ours a couple of weekends ago, in a supermarket car park.

Given the restrictions on no more than two people in the shop at a time, my wife and daughter went in and knowing the car auto locks when she walks away, my wife left me a Tesla key card.

They walked off, and all was well as I sat there on my phone, probably disagreeing with somebody on here about ID.3s, but anyway, I digress! 😀.

After a few minutes, the car locked, the wing mirrors came in. No problem I thought, just put the key card near the cup holders and it’ll open up. But no. Pressing the door button didn’t do anything, I was in the back and the child locks are on, but couldn't open the window to grab the handle from outside. It was locked, and I was locked in it, even though I had a card.

Them the alarm went off. Great!

What a daft design, if indeed that is by design.
A lesson learnt! Might I respectfully suggest (if you haven’t already done so) that you load the Tesla app on your phone, use your wife’s Tesla account details to login (if she allows you to😂😂)...
You should then be able the unlock the car yourself.
And indeed do all that is available to her via her phone😁
It has the added advantage that you can do this remotely for her should she find herself in a similar unfortunate position ... as BTW she should have been able to do for you from within the shop if she had her phone with her, (you need also to have a Bluetooth pairing between her car and your phone)
It also gives you both another secure emergency alternative should you lose either of your keycards or phones.
You didn’t tell us... how did you get out of jail?
 

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You didn’t tell us... how did you get out of jail?
Fortunately, they came out of the shop two minutes later, and had to suffer my grumbling about the ‘stoopid Tesla’ imprisoning me! 😂

I think next time I’ll just make sure I sit in the drivers seat and keep it ‘alive’, and play with the fart cushions or something.
 

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I'm personally gonna try not to worry about the safety aspects in the events mentioned above, I think they'd be rare occurrences in my own circumstances. As for the motor issue I think it's something I'll keep my eye on. I've just over 700 miles on mine as of today without issue, touch wood..
 

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Long read, but thought it may be useful for other M3 owners if the same problems arise.

Had an interesting few days with the M3. It's barely 5 weeks old, with 324 miles on the clock and has generally been great. Overall very impressed. Or I was until last Thursday evening.

Car was parked outside my flat. Went to drive to the supermarket. As i shifted into D, I heard an almighty thump/clunk from the rear of the car. Initially I thought someone had reversed into me, but when I realised not and tried to drive off, the car wouldn't move. Screen was on, windows and doors worked fine, the car just wouldn't move in D or R.

Various restarts/power downs, exit and re-entries did nothing. I then had 3 error messages appear on the screen (attached) HVP_w028 (vehicle may not restart), BMS_a059 (vehicle may not restart) & VCFRONT_a192 (electrical power system reduced). I googled these and saw some references to rear drive unit problems and possibly pyro fuses blowing.

Called Tesla for recovery and they were very good. I didn't need to go anywhere that night, so said recovery the following morning would be fine. Nearest service centre was Crawley.

Recovery vehicle arrived around 11 and thats when the fun started. I got in expecting to put it in towing mode and away we'd go. After the screen came on, it quickly went off then wouldn't wake up. Doors wouldn't open. Driver window opened itself slightly. Nothing else. Recovery guy had a bit of experience with EV's and said hooking a battery booster to the 12V may put enough juice in to at least get the screen on. If that didn't work, he'd have to call a bigger truck to crane it onto a flatbed. Next challenge was opening the bonnet with no power. Repeated attempts on the moblie app wouldn't work, until i got lucky and it magically worked (useful note for the future - in the towing eye cover there are +/- wires which you can hook up to a booster to pop the bonnet).

Eventually we got the booster connected, got some power to the 12V and managed to get the screen working. First thing I saw were a lot of further error messages - VCFRONT_a182 (12V battery must be replaced soon), HVP_w028 (vehicle may not restart), EPBR_a179 (Parking brake functions degraded), RCM2_a254 (eCall emergency call system is not available), VCFRONT_a180 (Electrical system power reduced), DIF_a062 (power reduced), VCFRONT_a191 (Electrical system power reduced).

Then we had to figure out how to put it, and keep it, in towing mode. After about god knows how many attempts with foot on the brake pedal, turning towing mode on, releasing brake so it could move, forcing the steering when power steering wasn't working, it finally moved. It had taken an hour to get it onto the back of the tow truck.

When we got to the service centre (quicker than it took to load the car), the service team had the same issues unloading as I had loading.12V booster to the +/- wires in the towing eye hole popped the bonnet (lesson learned) but it didn't put enough juice in to wake up the screen. Took about 30 mins of restarts, power downs, service codes, another 12V booster to eventually get it into towing mode and get it off the truck.

The service team were generally really good. Had a loaner Model S ready for me to use (good fun, if a bit dated at at least 5 years old and has issues keeping charge). Got a call the next day saying various replacement parts had been ordered and it should be ready in a week. The issue seems to have been a faulty rear drive unit, which caused a pyro fuse to blow to prevent high voltage causing issues. This meant the 12V couldn't be charged by the HV battery and nothing would work, until a 12V booster was connected.

No idea why the rear drive unit failed on such a new car but hopefully that'll be the end of the problems when I get it back.

Hopefully no one else will have the same bad luck, but if you do get the same issues this may be of use.

View attachment 143642 View attachment 143648 View attachment 143649

Hi!

I found your post after doing some research on a problem earlier today with our tesla M3LR.

the exact same thing happened to us. I was just about to drive from a parking lot. I think the bump came when i pressed the brake pedal toput it in drive. I almost thaught someone had drove into the back of the car!

the car is at SC now. They think it will be covered by the warranty. Did yours? And did you get any explanation on what could have caused it?

best,
Victor
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi!

I found your post after doing some research on a problem earlier today with our tesla M3LR.

the exact same thing happened to us. I was just about to drive from a parking lot. I think the bump came when i pressed the brake pedal toput it in drive. I almost thaught someone had drove into the back of the car!

the car is at SC now. They think it will be covered by the warranty. Did yours? And did you get any explanation on what could have caused it?

best,
Victor
No explanation of what caused it. Was all covered under warranty and I had an old Model S for a few days. I think the loud noise is a pyro fuse blowing, but assume there's must have been something faulty with the RDU in manufacturing. No problems since which is good. I think the 12v battery dying caused bigger problems with moving the car, so next tie something goes wrong, i'll get it towed as soon as possible rather than leaving it overnight!

It took 5 days including the weekend to fix the problem, but they had to order in parts.
 

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No explanation of what caused it. Was all covered under warranty and I had an old Model S for a few days. I think the loud noise is a pyro fuse blowing, but assume there's must have been something faulty with the RDU in manufacturing. No problems since which is good. I think the 12v battery dying caused bigger problems with moving the car, so next tie something goes wrong, i'll get it towed as soon as possible rather than leaving it overnight!

It took 5 days including the weekend to fix the problem, but they had to order in parts.
Thank you! That was calming me down. I was looking forward to have a tesla S or something as a loan car, but since there are some 200km to SC we got a blingy merc with blue interior lighting and 678 chromed buttons all over the place. Really miss our M3!
 
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