Speak EV - Electric Car Forums banner

21 - 40 of 40 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
Big, big thanks to @modo and @Russ and anyone else who has ever posted regarding the dreaded “steering column lock” message.

The part suggested by @modo arrived from the U.S today (very quick). I couldn’t wait and straight away removed the necessary trim to get to the faulty part. I could then reach through and remove the electronic plug and plugged it into the new part....voila! It cleared the fault and I could shift out of park. The feeling of elation was amazing 😀

I’ll look into removing the old part soon.

The sound the mechanism now makes sounds different, much quicker and less clunky.

Big thanks again.

@modo are the bolts to remove towards the engine? I’ve taken a pic of what I can see.
130180
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
Yes unfortunately the bolts are towards the engine, and almost impossible to see whilst sawing/grinding/extracting.

See here (link should take you to post #358)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
Thanks for replying @modo
I presume a garage like Bellingers would have the correct tools/procedure to carry out the replacement properly?
How would they go about it? Remove more of the car I guess
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
I don't think it's possible to gain better access (short of cutting out a section of the car's chassis!) The official service manual (shared on here somewhere) simply says:

Steering Column Lock Control Module Bolt (Qty: 2)
Caution: Refer to Fastener Caution in the Preface section.
Procedure
Note: The 2 steering column lock control module bolts on the forward end of the steering column lock control module are shear bolts.
1. Use any of the following common tools in order to remove the bolts:
• An angle grinder and a screwdriver
• A hammer and a chisel
• A screw extractor
• A centre punch
2. Discard the old bolts.
3. Install 2 NEW bolts and tighten until the bolt heads break off.

But remember this part is simply a part from the GM parts bin, so is used widely across other GM models so no doubt some garages have removed these before, so you get better at it. I guess anyone skilled in bolt removal would make short work of it anyhow - so you could simply get someone (garage etc) you trust to do it, given ultimately it is DIY-able (albeit rather difficult).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
Thanks for sharing that @modo

Insane to make a part this shoddy and lock it away in a hard to reach cage, just archaic 🤷🏻‍♂️

Anyone would think they were protecting the Crown Jewels!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,065 Posts
If you look at your new one, you will see where the threads are.

As I said earlier, I used a disk grinder to disk the heads off but they needed to be completely off and a bit was left so I ended up cutting through the threaded part of the bolts as well to allow the lock body to slide up out of the bracket.

Very much belt and braces considering the electronics and gear shift are also locked. If you have the fob the lock unlocks anyway so never really sure why they bother to lock the steering.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,437 Posts
Can you not simply cut the Aluminium lock case apart instead? It's scrap after all... just hack that stuff out to help get at the bolts? So you can then put a Mole-grip on what's left of the bolts? Or is it that the bolts themselves can''t be got-at?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
Can you not simply cut the Aluminium lock case apart instead? It's scrap after all... just hack that stuff out to help get at the bolts? So you can then put a Mole-grip on what's left of the bolts? Or is it that the bolts themselves can''t be got-at?
Not a bad idea actually. It does mean cutting part of the 'car' rather than the module itself as the bracket which the bolts are flush against is surrounding the module. Also as per photo here Steering column lock fault
I think the bracket is steel, unlike the aluminium of the module. But ultimately the main issue is that the bolts (and area which would need cutting) is facing the front of the car and still horrendously difficult to access. My back hurt for a good few days after doing this job as I could do it only lying on my back in the foot-well!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
I think I’m going to wait until after lockdown and drive it to a few local garages to get quotes to remove.
As you say @modo you have to be a contortionist to get into a half decent position, then hold a mirror, torch and grinder at the same time.
Has anyone left the old one permanently in and just cable tied close by?

If anyone is in the London/Essex area who’s successfully done this I’d happily pay to get them to do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
I’ve managed to take some pretty clear pictures, it may help others and also just clear up a query I have.
Have others sheared the head off the bolt or cut between the metal casing and the part?
Thanks

130502
130503
130504
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,065 Posts
The problem is that the bolt shafts tend to have just a tiny bit of head left which stops the body of the lock sliding up. I cut the shafts below the heads as well to fully remove the problem and levered it upwards by levering a gap and using a hacksaw blade. I assume it is unlocked at the mo? You have to unplug with power on then shut the car down. It soon flags a fault when the new one is plugged in but clears when the ignition is cycled. Best of luck but you are nearly there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
Hi @Russ I’m driving around with the new one plugged in for the time being and cable tied close by.

I can’t remember if I unplugged the old and plugged in the new with the car on and off?!? It drives fine and shows no error messages.

*i think I plugged in whilst the 12v battery was disconnected.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,065 Posts
Great, just checking it was off as I gather by the design that if the lock is enabled, you can't slide it from the bracket!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
So I initially tried to cut a groove/slot across the bolt heads with the aim of using a flat screwdriver to undo them. In the end I had to grind off about 90% of the head and that allowed me to use nose pliers to undo the bolts and remove.

I can confirm if your driving with the new module connected - then your old module is in the 'unlocked' position, so once you do get those bolts off - the module should just slide out.

Good luck!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,296 Posts
Just worked it out, it’s because I was trying to make an offer, if you click on “Buy it Now” it lets me click through.

My Ampera is a MY12. I read earlier that I could charge for 15 mins a day to keep the 12V battery healthy.

Got to be careful not to charge too much because the vehicle still has 25 miles of range left and the manual says to store with 1/2 charge or less for long periods.
funny, my Volt manual tells me to keep the car plugged in whenever possible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,065 Posts
They are just pliers. If you can grind off the heads all you need to do then is to put a lever into the gap at the bottom to slide the lock up and it then just pulls out of the steel cover.

I very much doubt that you can undo the bolts as they will be tight. I used a 4" disc grinder which is a bit scary under there but others have used the dremel hobby grinder which is much more compact although will take longer.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
I’m gonna give em a try!
I have another use for them with some rusted screw on a gate. I’ll let you know how I get on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
Thought I’d update on how this turned out. In the end I paid a local mechanic to remove the old part. He only charged £45! Which I thought was worth every penny. He cut some grooves in the bolt heads then used an impact driver to remove them.

To hold it in place we’ve used standard 10mm bolts so it can be easily removed if it happens again.

132220
 
21 - 40 of 40 Posts
Top