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I'm considering swapping out my second car for an older Leaf.

It's currently worth around £5k and I'd be hoping to swap to the Leaf for around the same amount. My requirements are fairly low given we have an Ioniq 28 as our main car, so the leaf would only be used for occasional shorter trips.

Would be happy with a 50-60 mile range, so gather the ~£5k leafs on Autotrader might suit me fine. Also not fussed about charger speed, 3.3kW will be plenty.

But is there anything else to watch out for with an older model like this?
 

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I paid 6k for my '14 leaf, 11 bars 84% soh. 60 miles is doable at the moment with reasonably careful driving, but is at the limit.
Not the tidiest example to be honest but I think it was well priced. If buying again I would go on condition and also check the SOH on leafspy app. I would say buy one privately that is in regular use not one that has been sitting around on a dealer forecourt (which will also be more expensive)

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

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I'm considering swapping out my second car for an older Leaf.

It's currently worth around £5k and I'd be hoping to swap to the Leaf for around the same amount. My requirements are fairly low given we have an Ioniq 28 as our main car, so the leaf would only be used for occasional shorter trips.

Would be happy with a 50-60 mile range, so gather the ~£5k leafs on Autotrader might suit me fine. Also not fussed about charger speed, 3.3kW will be plenty.

But is there anything else to watch out for with an older model like this?
Just be aware that the range prediction is based on the last drive the car did, and can essentially be ignored - If the last drive was all down hill it might say 100 mile range but in reality it'll be much lower than that.

Check the battery's state of health, if it's from a dealer they should be able to do this for you, otherwise you can do it yourself with an ODBII dongle and LeafSpy.
 

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Nissan LEAF30
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Are you buying a Sunderland or Japanese produced car? The former is heavier but has better batteries and the foot operated parking brake, the latter the expensive to replace and unreliable electronic version. Avoid grey imports, they are more trouble than they are worth.
The early cars with the complete low level divide at the front of the boot between the rear struts don't have the heat pump so are less efficient in cold weather if you like the car toasty. The top of the range model (Tekna in later cars) has better LED headlights, PLU seats and 17" wheels which give a slightly worse ride and the tyres for which cost twice the 16" version.
If buying any used LEAF use LEAFSPY to check the state of the battery but at a low state of charge - the data after a full battery balancing charge is less meaningful.
Be aware that the battery at that age is out of guarantee and there are only very limited and expensive options for repair or replacement.
 

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For a 2013 Leaf, like @dk6780 says, you want to find a sunderland car. A colleague of mine bought a 13-plate sunderland built Leaf Acenta from a used car dealer for a fraction over £6k a few months ago. Sunderland-built cars have a much sturdier battery pack, which should still be at 11 or so bars on the health gauge.

A quick glance at cheap Leafs on autotrader, this is the one I'd probably go for for your uses:

Sunderland build, 11 battery bars, acenta.
 

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2014 Leaf 24Kw
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Looks like a bargain. Paid +1k on mine with similar spec - although it was only 30 miles away and I could test drive it and run LS before purchase.
 

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Consider selling you my 13 plate 11 bar Sunderland Leaf for £5000. I want something with a bigger battery,
 
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