Hi
Did you do this by yourself? How did you get the screen off?
Did it screw back in, or how did you fix it in? it would be GREAT to do something like this...
Thanks,
Mark.
Hi Mark, Simon,
Sorry I have only just seen the notifications in my inbox.
Yes. I'm an engineer and didn't want to fork out a load of cash on a replacement head unit.
Worst case: I break it and have to buy a replacement head unit anyway
The following is from memory ~4 months ago, so some small details may be missing.
I chose to take the tilting screen assembly out without taking the head unit out.
The steps I took:
1) Press the button to tilt the screen flat
2) Unscrew the 2x screws that attach the tilt mechanism to the screen
3) Carefully!!! twist the screen and slide so that it comes out and gives you access to the metal panel on the back.
3a) Did I say carefully? That flexi cable is fragile, so don't go tugging on it or let the screen dangle from it.
4) Unscrew the 2x screws where the cable goes into the head unit. This prevents the strain relief, but gives a bit more wriggle room to get to the back of the screen.
5) Unscrew the 2x screws of the covering panel on the back of the screen
6) Unclip the flexi connector and remove from the back of the screen
7) Take the screen inside to a nice warm, clean environment to make your life easier
8) Assembly is the reverse of disassembly (good old Haynes
)
Notes:
The screws are held in with something magic (superglue / loctite). The first time you unscrew them, make sure you have a perfectly fitting screwdriver bit otherwise they will round off.
Once you have the screen out of the car, find a relatively dust free environment and familiarise yourself with the job before you do it properly. Getting the screen in and out is the easy bit!
Once you've tilted the screen down, it would probably be a good idea to either disconnect the 12V battery or unplug the head unit.
I didn't do either and had a couple of 'oops' moments when knocking the tilt button, or getting the flexi cable slightly wrong in the socket.
The head unit is always powered, even with the ignition off.
For the touch panel itself:
The pin order is different on the original, so you have to make a small modification to the supplied 4-pin FFC adapter cable.
Steps to modify the adapter / extension cable:
1) De solder the FFC socket
2) Trim the cable to a sensible length (gauge this by holding everything in place, but approx. 4cm)
3) Scrape the white insulation off the 4 tracks
4) Solder the FFC socket onto the cable offset to achieve the connections below.
4a) Use a low temperature setting and practice on the off cut - that cable melts far too easily.
5) Use a small piece of wrapping wire (or similar) to connect the remaining track / pin.
6) Once you've tested it, use some hot glue over your soldering to keep everything insulated and robust.
This was the drawing I made for myself at the time to visualise how to make an adapter.
I haven't drawn the adapter itself, only the result that is required.
Edit: Found a photo.
Overexposed so you can't see the connections, but they are silver side up:
It's pretty obvious when it's wrong, as either X/Y input are swapped, or the direction of the axis is reversed (left is right, etc). You can also measure the resistance (values and pins above) and compare to the original.
The screen assembly comes apart pretty easily. Just methodically unscrew and keep track of where it goes back. The cables and connectors are fiddly, but there are no hidden springs or gotchas that I came across.
The exit of the flat cable from the digitiser is slightly offset compared to the original so you have to carefully squeeze it between the board and casing.
The original digitiser has some black foam around the edges. I didn't have any on the new panel, but it has been fine in the car since.
It's surprising how much clearer the new digitiser is - I guess the sunlight took its toll.
Sorry for the lack of photos - although I considered it, I didn't dare pull my wife's car apart again in order to document everything!
Edit: I found another photo of the adapter connected to the digitiser:
www.speakev.com
