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latest purchase from ebay, a thule 9502 2 bike tow mounted carrier. This is one of my DH converted electric bikes. I really need to make it lighter. The bike was heavy to begin with at 20.4kg and add maybe 4kg extra for the hub and its approaching the upper weight limit on this carrier for just one of these bikes at 30kg but id like to carry 2.

So I've bought a couple of those cheap straps from halfords for £6 which fit inside the hatch and hopefully that should create some addition lift. (i was thinking about some hybrid system where i have a temporary arm/spacer between the hatch and the bikes so that the pull from the straps doesn't push the bike into the car. One of the biggest issue after a very limited test run was the asymmetry of the weight. This caused a pendulum effect around the tow bar when cornering so its really not suitable as it stands.

Will put a plate on the back on a board but I am wondering that since the light cluster of the car is visible still whether i need a light board.

I have a small hub motor laced into another 26 inch wheel which i could potentially swap in but i am toying with the idea of using my other spare bike (Scott ransom 30) which is lighter and putting the small hub into that. When the wife gets back to having time for triathlons again it will have no issue with her bike but these ebikes are a different beast. I also have the option of a mid drive gng system which i bought years ago and never installed which would centralise all that weight on the bike but reduce my clearance on the bottom bracket.

also the thing near the headtube is the bracket for the child carriers. The kids love these bikes.

bike on rack.jpg
 

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wow that is a heavy old setup isn't it. Would taking the battery pack & front wheel off help as you could move the bike over to the left more so you have more of the hub weight over the actual bike mount?

Personally a tailboard isnt that pricey but also has the foglight in at as well for a clearer view and saves any possible hassle with VOSA/Police not entirely happy the lights are not 100% clear.
 

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@Kingpleb1. there is no battery mounted (just my plastic printed mount i designed to hold the b&q batteries. Also the rack is designed to secure the wheels to the holders and actually removing the front wheel would further unbalance the bike as you are removing weight from the left side of the pivot. Also the 20 mm QR is not really very quick releasing and takes me about 10 mins to take this front wheel off and same to put it on again. basically i am going to have to rethink my bikes and reduce the weight somewhat.

The issue with the tailboard is that i don't have easy access to the wires to install a 7 or 13 pin lighting board hookup. That's because the muxsan battery is on top of where the easiest place to get into it is. This isnt a problem with the buzzrack as nothing is obscured by it or the luggage bar the regplate. In fact even on the Thule bike rack you can still see the fog light now (just not from the angle i took the photo) offset and all the other lights since they are positioned at a good height.

Its all a work in progress and I will see how the straps help if at all.
 

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Wally- What I did was to go to my local bike charity shop, Hope to Cycle. They may have a branch near you.
They are a charity that accepts donated bikes, makes them roadworthy then packs them in a container for third-world distribution or sells them locally from their shop.
Most of them have a large shed where donated bikes are kept while waiting to be made roadworthy.
I went through a pile of these bikes until I found one that weighed next to nothing and then I fitted a crank drive motor from Whoosh bikes. I have done about 1000 miles on it now and it is very reliable. It was a Specialized Crossroads about 4 years old. I replaced both wheels (after an encounter with a lampost thanks to a local moggie darting in front of me in a narrow alleyway) and fitted a TSDZ2 crank motor and 48volt battery. I had to remove the variable chainrings to fit the motor so now I just use the 8-speed rear cassette. The only issue I had was the cable guide on the bottom bracket. The plastic guide was well over 5mm deep, so I ransacked the shop's bike shed and found a lower profile one. I still had to spend an hour filing and removing plastic so I could fit the motor, but now it looks almost like a bought one. I also fitted a pneumatic seat post to ease my poor old backside a bit from all the bumps.
right_side.jpg rear_derailleur_guide.jpg left_side.jpg handlebar_with_display_new_lh_brake_lever.jpg fitted_sensor.jpg crank_area_top_left.jpg battery_fitment.jpg
 
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