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Discussion Starter #1
Im looking to buy a trolley jack for basic use. I am aware the jacking points are very specific and the last time it was put on a ramp we had to be very careful as the front end was very low. Not a lot of clearance.
Has anyone got a recommendation for a suitable trolley jack that will fit underneath ok. I see Halfords have two, the low profile one being £15 more expensive that the standard one, but is it low enough?
 

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I have a standard 'RAC' hydraulic jack and it is not particularly low profile.

Here is how you jack an Ampera safely.

Front; lie on the floor on the nearside, feet forward of the front wheel and head just rearward of the wheel. Look under the car and notice there is 3-lobed type sub-chassis member, with 3 bolt heads showing. You'll know it when you see it!! :)

Trolley jack straight under, behind the front wheel, until the trolley cup sits just under the lower bolt head. Raise the trolley cup to a paperback-thickness gap - I put an old paperback book between the chassis and the trolley cup. You can then jack up the car.

Once lowered again, make sure the arm/cup are pushed flat, as it may remain higher than the sill metalwork if it doesn't fully lower.

For the offside, you end up a bit more twisted (assumes you are right handed), but once you have done the nearside you will understand all there is to know for the other.

Back; the lower spring carrier has a flat structure you can easily get the jack under. The problem with the back that you might find is that once the jack is that far under the car you have no room left to actually pump the jacking bar. I resorted to passing the jack under the sill, forward of the rear wheel, rather than from the rear of the car. This will vary depending on how long your jack is, but basically just jack it up on the lower spring carrier.

I will also mention that the Ampera also has 'conventional' Opel/Euro-GM sill jacking points. I never used them myself, but I can say that the standard Vectra B screw jack fits the Ampera sill jacking points perfectly, and most importantly it clears the rocker panels, which is the basic problem if you try to use the sill points. So I don't really advise that, but if you have a Vectra B jack then it looks to me like it fits perfectly.
 

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I have one of these that is quite compact;)

P1040196.JPG



I got a full sized version in red off Ebay for £30, it's brilliant goes under the I Beam on my 32 and that only has about 4 inches of clearance:

P1010832.JPG
 

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I
I have one of these that is quite compact;)

View attachment 47073


I got a full sized version in red off Ebay for £30, it's brilliant goes under the I Beam on my 32 and that only has about 4 inches of clearance:

View attachment 47081
I would be very interested to see more pics of your deuce. Back in the day I built a low budget 53 pop.
 

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I have a standard 'RAC' hydraulic jack and it is not particularly low profile.

Here is how you jack an Ampera safely.

Front; lie on the floor on the nearside, feet forward of the front wheel and head just rearward of the wheel. Look under the car and notice there is 3-lobed type sub-chassis member, with 3 bolt heads showing. You'll know it when you see it!! :)

Trolley jack straight under, behind the front wheel, until the trolley cup sits just under the lower bolt head. Raise the trolley cup to a paperback-thickness gap - I put an old paperback book between the chassis and the trolley cup. You can then jack up the car.

Once lowered again, make sure the arm/cup are pushed flat, as it may remain higher than the sill metalwork if it doesn't fully lower.

For the offside, you end up a bit more twisted (assumes you are right handed), but once you have done the nearside you will understand all there is to know for the other.

Back; the lower spring carrier has a flat structure you can easily get the jack under. The problem with the back that you might find is that once the jack is that far under the car you have no room left to actually pump the jacking bar. I resorted to passing the jack under the sill, forward of the rear wheel, rather than from the rear of the car. This will vary depending on how long your jack is, but basically just jack it up on the lower spring carrier.

I will also mention that the Ampera also has 'conventional' Opel/Euro-GM sill jacking points. I never used them myself, but I can say that the standard Vectra B screw jack fits the Ampera sill jacking points perfectly, and most importantly it clears the rocker panels, which is the basic problem if you try to use the sill points. So I don't really advise that, but if you have a Vectra B jack then it looks to me like it fits perfectly.
Very useful. Thank you. As a relatively recent Ampera owner one of the things I'd like to do is get a spare and jack. Would you know the de facto solution by forum members. I'm considering a wind-up jack and full size spare. The Vectra jack sounds ideal. Do you know if a Vectra wheel also fits?
Many thanks.

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 

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No it will not fit.

I bought winter rims from tyreleader.co.uk. Actually a German web site so look for Opel Ampera. IIRC, only alloys are listed, if you want a steel then check the PCD/offset and then go find the nearest equivalent in the Astra J listings.
 

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Sheesh! Professional stuff!

If I had realised you were talking that sort of money I'd have looked up mine.

This one;-
Hydraulic Trolley Jack 2000kg - Toolstation
is just like my 'RAC' one, with different branding on it. Does the job perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sheesh! Professional stuff!

If I had realised you were talking that sort of money I'd have looked up mine.

This one;-
Hydraulic Trolley Jack 2000kg - Toolstation
is just like my 'RAC' one, with different branding on it. Does the job perfectly.
Doh, I wish you hadn't shown me that.
I'm getting on a bit now and find a lot of stuff bought off the web is low quality or not want is expected. I wanted a jack that will be safe and last (I'm looking to buy a classic car soon so it should get some use). So I spend time reading reviews in TrustPilot etc and to be honest I might as well not bother as many are fake.
I should get off my butt and go to a shop, have a look and buy what I need!
(Or take personal recommendations).
 

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I'm not crazy, the attack has begun.
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Doh, I wish you hadn't shown me that.
I'm getting on a bit now and find a lot of stuff bought off the web is low quality or not want is expected. I wanted a jack that will be safe and last (I'm looking to buy a classic car soon so it should get some use). So I spend time reading reviews in TrustPilot etc and to be honest I might as well not bother as many are fake.
I should get off my butt and go to a shop, have a look and buy what I need!
(Or take personal recommendations).
Heh. I used to always buy what I needed top quality stuff on the basis of it lasting forever. Stuff still breaks/gets lost/'borrowed' indefinitely/stolen.

I have slowly come around to the 'BIC Pen' model, buy cheap when needed, and replace it when necessary.

In this case, if this jack is just like the one I have (it looks exactly the same) it has now lasted me 15 years and is still in good condition.

I'm sure your posh one will do you proud and be nice to use. Mine is a bit too DIY for my preferences, it is true, but it does the job.
 

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I use a MachineMart one - works nicely. Just under £50.
Clarke CTJ2250LP 2.25 Tonne Low Profile Trolley Jack with Sockets - Machine Mart - Machine Mart

upload_2017-7-23_20-47-5.jpeg



upload_2017-7-23_20-47-19.jpeg


upload_2017-7-23_20-47-33.jpeg

A nice feechur if this jack is the handle can be applied at any angle to the body of the jack - the handle attachment rotates about the pumping cylinder. Nice touch.

For jacking the front, I use the 3-lobed chassis thing easily visible just behind the front wheel which Donald mentioned.

At the back, it's a bit trickier - but there's a substantial squareish bit of chassis just in front of the rear wheels, a few inches in from the sills. Problem is, it's also about 2 inches higher than the bottom of the car! So I use a 3"" cubed block of chipboardy stuff as a spacer. Came off a pallet I recycled.

For mobile use, I went down to my local breaker & scoured around - found a nice hefty-looking Audi (4x4 or large A6 estate, I forget what) and salvaged a nice aluminium scissor jack from that. Picture below. That's designed to fit a vertical lip - so I made up 2 wooden blocks with a steel angle to act as the lip, see here:
upload_2017-7-23_20-46-4.jpeg


The weelnut spanner is one of those 2-sized hexagonal nut with 1/2" drive fitting in the middle, and these come with steel extending handle. Didn't fancy carrying around all that weight, so got myself some 1/2" ally bar, drilled through the un-needed nut end, passed the bar through, bent it at 1/2 way point & the handle is where the 2 ends are screwed together. Beautifully light!
 

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Not sure I like the idea of inventing your own jacking point at the back.

I'll post some photos I have previously take of the underside of my ex-Ampera, it might make more sense in real photos than workshop manuals.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
@HandyAndy thanks very much for the tips and the photos, as @donald says its easier to make out the jacking points with photos that the schematics I had from the service manual (which only serviced to confuse me).
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I think I will spray the jacking points with yellow line marking paint, so there can be no mistakes if I ever have to take it to Kwik Fit (other garages are also available). I have heard of some 'professional' tyre fitting garages making assumptions and causing damage when lifting the car.
 
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