Hi Folks
Newbie here so got a query for my first post....!
I have a home charger installed but it has a type 1 tethered plug on it [Had the Mitsubishi].......now have a BMW 330e and looking at a Tesla so need a type 2 plug
I have seen a converter plug that simply plugs on the end of the type 1 tethered cable and the other end is a type 2 which plugs in the car.
Just wondering if anyone has any experience of these and whether they are OK to use / any good?
Been quoted £260 + VAT for the original company to replace the tethered type 1 to a tethered type 2 cable.....and I have just seen the adaptor for £106 online
Strictly they are against the rules - you are not allowed to "extend" the cable as there's no standard for waterproofing the joint.
You can generally get a new cable for around £100 and either swap it yourself or pay a Sparky to do it for you. This is the best solution unless you need to regularly charge cars of different plug types from the same charge point in which case a change to an untethered unit may be more appropriate.
Is your current unit a 7kW type as if not you may want to upgrade it.
Ta for the reply....so best option is to get a type 2 cable with a plug on one end and nothing on the other and replace it?
Just had a look at the existing and its just the standard 3 cores in the wall charger unit...brown / blue and earth...assume the type 2 is just the same and a straight swap like for like?
No unforeseen issues with doing this?
EDIT - And also just change the holdster part as well i assume?
I have got one of the adaptors and it works fine - I am undercover though and its just 16A. Probably wouldn't have done it if charging was in the open. I am planing to get a commando socket installed and OHME cable eventually but that might take a while. (mine was £74 on Amazon)
While you're in there, you've got the original Rolec-branded B40 RCBO at the top. Do not delay, get that heap of dangerous cr*p out of there and in the bin asap. Replace with a good quality item instead, such as this one:
and here's my Rolec with the Garo in:
There have been a lot of appends about this item in several threads, all bad. Garo will cost around £25 I think. Rolec one will cost you a lot more if you leave it in, in a bad way.
OK, will bow to the knowledge on here...what's the issue with the Rolec one, not tripping and causing a fire issue I guess.?
To be fair , my charger has not been switched on or used for around 4 years now
i had a Rolec, type 1 ( for Outlander) and to be fair had no problems, but when I changed car and needed a type 2 , when considering its age and reputation , given unlikely will need thpe1 again, I decided to get a new type 2 tethered Pod-Point fitted.
i had a Rolec, type 1 ( for Outlander) and to be fair had no problems, but when I changed car and needed a type 2 , when considering its age and reputation , given unlikely will need thpe1 again, I decided to get a new type 2 tethered Pod-Point fitted.
Yup, I've been using one for my Kona for the last 18 months without a problem. It clicks on to a 7 year old tethered Pod Point which is undercover although the car isn't. I always take it off and put it inside when not in use.
jambo , I paid £150 or £199 for the Rolec in 2016 ( grant aided). Podpoint was potentially free as part of Audi deal , but I had to pay £350 as I could not get grant again ( had sold the outlander / same house). Pleased to get rod of the outlander when I did I think va
ues Will drop.
The original Rolec RCBO's a crap design - see the pics I posted in the Rolec - is it dangerous? thead. The reason that top left terminal moves away from the rest of the unit is because the only thing holding it in is ... the outer plastic case! So as that warms, it moves, the contacts go out of alignment, contact area reduces, heat increases, it just gets worse & worse. The rest of the Rolec seems ok; some have had the case crack, but maybe those were screwed tight against an uneven wall; all I can say is the rest of mine's been fine for 5 years, albeit positioned inside my gge away from the elements. But I do like the way I can repair it myself, cheaply, every electrical bit can be replaced without being locked in to the original mfrs price.
@Jambo
I'll second the recommendation to buy the parts from @martinwinlow via his Website. @freddym will no doubt say that you should produce your own but this depends on your technical competence.
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