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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all

I’m new to the forum so hi to you all!

I’m hoping someone here has a bit of knowledge they can share. I’m a recent new owner of a 2016 gen 1 leaf. We have a Niro phev also and a 7kw charger (Garo) with a tethered cable.

I bought an 32A adapter from aliexpress to charge my lead and after waiting 3 months, it looks like I got the wrong one 🤦🏻‍♂️

It seems like the terminals on the adapter are too far inside the head to connect with my tethered cable and so it won’t charge my leaf.

Did I get the wrong one / is there anything I can do to make it work?? This is the one here:
92.0US $ |32A SAE J1772 EVSE Charging Cable Type 2 IEC62196 2 To type 1 J1772 EV Adapter For electric vehicle Charging|Battery Cables & Connectors| - AliExpress
Thanks all



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Looks like you have a standard type 2 to type 1 cable for charging a type1 car from an untethered chargepoint. These are carefully designed to prevent use as extension cables.
The charging standard does not allow extension leads as these can defeat the safety features In the cable.

The real way to deal with this is either an untethered chargepoint or 2 chargepoints.

No doubt folks will be along saying extensions exist.
 
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It would work if you cut and strip the cable, twist the cores together and wrap them with tape. Just how much of a bodge you are prepared to put up with is a personal choice; Darwin wrote about that.
 

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OP, EVBitz sell one that actually works flawlessly.....

OK its not compliant with the standards, is not waterproof on the joint, possibly could be dis-connected under full load. Use with full knowledge of its limitations, you have been warned.

Alternatively
If you are keeping the Leaf a while, you could buy a 2nd hand type 1 tethered lead (should be less than £99). The buy a Khons type 1 to type 2 adapter doe the Niro PHEV. The type 1 to type 2 adapter is much more secure etc. K.H.O.N.S. Type 1 to Type 2 EV Adapter 16 Amp 32 Amp Easy to Connect with EV 791537189053 | eBay
 

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Given where you are, one approach would be to convert your charge point to untethered, by buying a type 2 socket, with the wires for inside the box already crimped to it. For example, Type 2 32A Female Socket (Motor Locking). You'd need to deal with the connection of the CP pilot signal and the resistor sensing for the cable, depending on the connections on the circuit board on your charger. You also need to control the locking mechanism (either motor or solenoid).

This is only easy if the box for your existing charge point is designed so it can either take a tethered cable or a socket, so you already have a location for the socket to be installed.

Then you'd just have a type 2 to type 2 cable for one car a type 2 to type 1 (which you've just bought) for the other.
 

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Given where you are, one approach would be to convert your charge point to untethered, by buying a type 2 socket, with the wires for inside the box already crimped to it. For example, Type 2 32A Female Socket (Motor Locking). You'd need to deal with the connection of the CP pilot signal and the resistor sensing for the cable, depending on the connections on the circuit board on your charger. You also need to control the locking mechanism (either motor or solenoid).

This is only easy if the box for your existing charge point is designed so it can either take a tethered cable or a socket, so you already have a location for the socket to be installed.

Then you'd just have a type 2 to type 2 cable for one car a type 2 to type 1 (which you've just bought) for the other.
The OP hasn't mentioned the manufacturer and model of his EVSE: it might be complicate/expensove or easy to modify to a socketed charger. Replacing the tethered lead with a type 1 and then using the small compact latching type 1 to type 2 adapter is a simple screwdriver only, low cost approach.
 

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The OP hasn't mentioned the manufacturer and model of his EVSE: it might be complicate/expensove or easy to modify to a socketed charger. Replacing the tethered lead with a type 1 and then using the small compact latching type 1 to type 2 adapter is a simple screwdriver only, low cost approach.
The OP stated it was a Garo - and some (most?) of their models look to be designed for either tethered or untethered configuration. As you say, the conversion would either be easy or difficult!

I'm just trying to give the OP some choices. In either case, it's probably a good idea for them to get local advice from an electrician, especially if they don't understand the discussion. And they look to be located in Italy, so a different set of regs in any case.
 

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The OP stated it was a Garo - and some (most?) of their models look to be designed for either tethered or untethered configuration. As you say, the conversion would either be easy or difficult!

I'm just trying to give the OP some choices. In either case, it's probably a good idea for them to get local advice from an electrician, especially if they don't understand the discussion. And they look to be located in Italy, so a different set of regs in any case.
Right you are: with a model number of the Garo EVSE, it might be possible to give some actual advice about the steps involved in converting to a socketed charger, good spot!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi again,

Thanks for all the replies so far. The wall box I have is the Garo GLB.


On the face of it, it actually looks like it would be quite easy to untether and I have the untethered cables for both cars + a capable electrician that could do it. What do you guys think???

Im not sure I could put up with the earache if my missus had to pull a cable out of the boot every time to charge the Niro Phev.

Possibly a silly question but how difficult is it to add a second box? Does it involve running another cable to the fuse box or can it feed from the Garo? The location of our fuse box is really awkward and i don’t think I’d be able to get another wire though.
 

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Depends on the local rules where you are and if charging two cars at once will overload your electricity supply.
Your electrician could put a changeover switch between the chargepoints so only one can operate at a time.
The PHEV only needs a 16A unit and these are turning up on ebay now as folks change to 32A units for their new cars.
 

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Garo make a priority box to allow two charge points to share a supply, it's a version of their shower priority box they've sold in Ireland for years, to allow electric showers to be fitted to houses with only a limited supply current. Not sure why Garo don't seem to sell this unit outwith Ireland, perhaps just because it used to be pretty commonplace to have low maximum current supplies there, and they were already established in the market with their shower priority boxes.
 

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Hi again,

Thanks for all the replies so far. The wall box I have is the Garo GLB.


On the face of it, it actually looks like it would be quite easy to untether and I have the untethered cables for both cars + a capable electrician that could do it. What do you guys think???

Im not sure I could put up with the earache if my missus had to pull a cable out of the boot every time to charge the Niro Phev.

Possibly a silly question but how difficult is it to add a second box? Does it involve running another cable to the fuse box or can it feed from the Garo? The location of our fuse box is really awkward and i don’t think I’d be able to get another wire though.
Still think the easiest, lowest cost, most reliable option is to replace your tethered lead with a type 1 cable. This is a DIY job and means your Leaf as largest battery / most time on the charger is taken care of. For the Niro PHEV, that KHONS converter wihich is a thing that fits in your hand will do the job. No cables out of the boot. Cheers
 
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