@Admin plz move this ro Ampera section under GM motors, thx.
If your old charger was an OEM GM one, they're known to fail. The very original had orange cable, mins lasted about 3 years. The replacement under wty had a black cable, maybe tehse last better, but I'd changed to a totally different one. You say you had to twist the cable to make that work, were you twisting near the car socket end? If so, could be a bad contact/connection in the car's chargeport. If you were twisting at the 13A mains end thet sounds like the cable in that failed, not the cars fault.
Have you got a Type2 -> 1 cable for use at a 7Kw supermarket pospoint or similar? Anyone nearby with an early Leaf, or Outlander, which I think both have the Type 1 socket? If so, try a charge on theirs. You need to establish where the fault is, EVSE, or inside the car. No idea if the Screwfix grannies work, anyone here got one on an Ampera?
You may get an engine warning light? If so, the car's unhappy with something inside itself, so you need to get a dongle & app to help diagnose probs, almost essential kit anyway on these. I suggest Viecar 4.0 wit bluetooth comms from Amazon £15 ish, and free Torque Lite app, will let you read the car's error logs, and clear some.
Always write down
all the numbers you see, eg P1E00 will be there, just means "some problem, see other numbers for details" so you can get a whole slew of them. I'm currently debugging a similar-sounding problem to yours, but probably a different thing going on. But possibly not).
If there's a fault in the car, you should get an error in the logs. This car's very good at logging these, not much escapes it! But it's possible for a failed EVSE to damage the car's internal chargers (there are 2, in series for 240V). THis is what's happened to me; EVSE burnt out internally, fried the insides, and has sent a voltage/current spike down one or other line into the car, and damaged it. Car now sees cable connected but charging doesn't ever start. Error code says 240V is all over the place & unstable. So it the 240V line damaged but easily repairable by me? Or is the voltage-sensing doodah damaged, and the 240V is actually fine? That's what I'm about to investigate in detail soon. Repairable by me = costs time but cheap; else it's a dealer trip, may cost £600 up to maybe £1000.