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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking to get my first EV - second hand Leaf. When looking at second hand Leafs (or any EV for that matter) - how much of a premium or otherwise would you put on mileage. There's some decent looking deals on 2016 cars that are 40K plus mileage - but I have no reference point. For ICE cars you know you've got engine wear, gearbox wear etc to consider; but for an EV? Is it still better to go for a lower mileage car at lower spec for the same price of a higher spec high mileage car for same price (which is what I'd do if an ICE car?)/

I get checking the battery health (to an extent), but does mileage actually matter so much? Any thoughts welcome.

Cheers
 

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I'm looking to get my first EV - second hand Leaf. When looking at second hand Leafs (or any EV for that matter) - how much of a premium or otherwise would you put on mileage. There's some decent looking deals on 2016 cars that are 40K plus mileage - but I have no reference point. For ICE cars you know you've got engine wear, gearbox wear etc to consider; but for an EV? Is it still better to go for a lower mileage car at lower spec for the same price of a higher spec high mileage car for same price (which is what I'd do if an ICE car?)/

I get checking the battery health (to an extent), but does mileage actually matter so much? Any thoughts welcome.

Cheers
Mileage less than 15,000 a year or more are no problem. The LEAF is a typical heavy FWD car, things like drop links and wishbone bushes wear and age. The motor and gearbox are bulletproof. The battery ages mainly depending on how it is treated, often very low mileage ones are worse than high mileage ones if they have been left fully charged.
 

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The 12v battery is also one thing that is neglected. If buying a seconhand one, I would buy a new one just to be sure. If it lets you down, you 'aint going anywhere.
 
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I'm looking to get my first EV - second hand Leaf. When looking at second hand Leafs (or any EV for that matter) - how much of a premium or otherwise would you put on mileage. There's some decent looking deals on 2016 cars that are 40K plus mileage - but I have no reference point. For ICE cars you know you've got engine wear, gearbox wear etc to consider; but for an EV? Is it still better to go for a lower mileage car at lower spec for the same price of a higher spec high mileage car for same price (which is what I'd do if an ICE car?)/

I get checking the battery health (to an extent), but does mileage actually matter so much? Any thoughts welcome.

Cheers
Sold my 24 with 97k miles. No creaks no rattles no faults drove like new.
Range down 10% or so which mattered to me so I swapped but someone got a bargain.
 

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The gearbox/reduction unit is not bullet proof.
High mileage cars depend on the driving. Mine for example is a 2016 and has done 54k. Most of that has been up and down the M1/6/40/25/23 on a weekly or.more basis for about 12months so nice gentle cruising and a battery not getting too hot or cold, charger or drained and left for longer periods at either end.

I worry more about low mileage cars that have been plugged in every night or left to get low before a charge after a few days. The Sunday club as it were...

SoH is a big thing to consider as while a car mag be low miles and good SoH, give it some time and miles and that will quickly drop when it starts to see what it's really like at lower SoC's
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thanks for the all the replies - really helpful. I came to the conclusion that a higher mileage per year was fine (actually could be better than lower mileage that's sat around and not driven regularly and charge sensibly) as long SOH look OK, and car itself looked in good condition.(and to add I found and bought a leaf - really enjoying it so far - not that I've had to drive anything but local so far due to on-going work from home and lock down).
 

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The gearbox/reduction unit is not bullet proof.
Too true, they fill with a pretty thin ATF at the factory and it does degrade significantly, no matter what Nissan spouts.
The oil I removed from ours at 100k was dark and thin as water, magnets had an unwelcome amount of metallic swarf clinging to them too.
The extreme pressure an EV motor exerts through the gear contact points literally chops up the molecular chains in the oil ,reducing it's viscosity and film strength.
 

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Too true, they fill with a pretty thin ATF at the factory and it does degrade significantly, no matter what Nissan spouts.
The oil I removed from ours at 100k was dark and thin as water, magnets had an unwelcome amount of metallic swarf clinging to them too.
The extreme pressure an EV motor exerts through the gear contact points literally chops up the molecular chains in the oil ,reducing it's viscosity and film strength.
I changed the manual gearbox oil in my ICE Passat at 125,000 (sealed for life according to VW but they avoided my question as to what ‘life’ is given their small mileage warranty). It too was thin and clearly well in need. Now at 177,000 and still going strong awaiting a suitable EV estate for dogs and sprog and buggy to be able to swap.
 

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The problem is that even semi regular fluid changes don't save it, taxis see a higher failure rate I'm guessing due to lots of stop start driving.
 

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The problem is that even semi regular fluid changes don't save it, taxis see a higher failure rate I'm guessing due to lots of stop start driving.
Ours is indeed an ex- taxi ;) 100k in four years and rapid charged almost exclusively :oops: A hard old life for the poor thing but it's still going strong now in its 6th year since leaving sunderland.

I did worry about the reduction gearset / bearings after seeing the state of the oil but its now on 122k and seems absolutely fine. Pretty sure the battery will kill it off long before the mechanicals fail.
 

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I changed the manual gearbox oil in my ICE Passat at 125,000 (sealed for life according to VW but they avoided my question as to what ‘life’ is given their small mileage warranty). It too was thin and clearly well in need. Now at 177,000 and still going strong awaiting a suitable EV estate for dogs and sprog and buggy to be able to swap.
Yeah it's such a simple task on most cars, I've always done it on something I plan keeping for a few years. Tesla recommend 50k changes for their cars, and they're fitted with a spin off filter so they clearly think oil thinning and contamination is worth minimizing .
Hoping for a practical EV estate too, not into the crossover fashion craze. An MEB based estate from skoda or seat with a realistic 300 mile range would be just dandy IMO :)
 

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Is the gear oil change something easy Nissan can do, e.g. have a sump plug and filler? Or is it something weird like drilling a sump hole and bunging it?
 

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My 14 plate Leaf is now on 74K miles with about 84% battery health. After two years of driving it, the only issue I had was the bottom ball joints and they were replaced under the extended warranty I got when I bought it.

Apart from that, the car has been flawless. No rattles and no problems. I wouldn't worry about mileage as long as the battery is still good. It's the same as buying any car. If the main bits are good, then don't worry about it.
 
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