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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In my brief time on the forum I have noticed there seems to be some confusion over when the timing belt should be replaced on the Golf GTE

I will try and clear things up with some screenshots taken (edited for ease of reading no data has been changed) from erWin which is a service anyone can subscribe too and get data from direct from VW, it isnt free though. None of the data below goes into methods of how to complete the timing belt change it just clears up when it should be done as not to infringe any copyright laws.

First of all we need to establish which Group we fall into based on vehicle location, from what I have seen on the forum the majority of us will fall into Group A

137224

Once you know which group you fall into see below

Group A:
137225

Group B and C:
137226


What does all that mean then?

Basically if you fall into group B or C your timing belt must be replaced every 120,000km (75,000 miles)

If you fall into group A it is very ambiguous which is where the confusion has come in, essentially the way I read it is that the tooth belt does not official require routine replacement.

What would I recommend?

I am in no way an authority on these sort of things, but for anyone interested in my opinion I would personally treat the timing belt as Group B no matter which country I lived in which is exactly what I did today by replacing the timing belt

137227


When completing the timing belt change the original belt looks in great condition after 84,000 miles and would probably easily have gone another 84,000 miles but the way I see it rubber ages even if the engine is never running for those who use their car primarily as an EV. It isn't worth the risk.

If anyone is thinking of doing the timing belt, you will need a locking pin set. I can recommend the Laser 6348 which is available for about £30

Just on another side note, for anyone who lives in a dusty country listed below you definitely need to follow the Group B timing belt change intervals:

137228
 

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How easy would it be for a 'regular joe' to inspect their cambelt? Is it a case of removing the plastic cover over the belt, or does it require more extensive disassembly?

I can't help but think pound-signs will just appear in the dealer's eyes when I ask them to inspect and advise - "oh yes it definitely needs changing it's very badly worn" - how could I know if they are truthful or not?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The only way to inspect really is remove everything, then turn the engine over by hand to check the belt. By which time you may as well swap the belt.

Like I say above even if the belt "looked" ok it just wouldn't be possible to say that belt will be fine. Certainly no dealership would say the belt will be fine I don't think anyone could blame them for not being willing to put their name to saying something will be OK, is it then their responsibility to replace the engine if the belt then subsequently snaps? How many miles should they guarantee the belt will be ok for from a visual inspection?

As far as costs go other than needing ODIS and a qualified tech to de-energise the system (quite a lot of high voltage cables need to be moved) it is essentially the same job as any other small tsi engine. Dealerships charge a lot for de-energising vehicles but in fairness the investment needed to get to a point to be able to de-energise the vehicles is astronomical and a dealership needs to make that cost back somehow I guess
 

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In my brief time on the forum I have noticed there seems to be some confusion over when the timing belt should be replaced on the Golf GTE

I will try and clear things up with some screenshots taken (edited for ease of reading no data has been changed) from erWin which is a service anyone can subscribe too and get data from direct from VW, it isnt free though. None of the data below goes into methods of how to complete the timing belt change it just clears up when it should be done as not to infringe any copyright laws.

First of all we need to establish which Group we fall into based on vehicle location, from what I have seen on the forum the majority of us will fall into Group A

View attachment 137224
Once you know which group you fall into see below

Group A:
View attachment 137225
Group B and C:
View attachment 137226

What does all that mean then?

Basically if you fall into group B or C your timing belt must be replaced every 120,000km (75,000 miles)

If you fall into group A it is very ambiguous which is where the confusion has come in, essentially the way I read it is that the tooth belt does not official require routine replacement.

What would I recommend?

I am in no way an authority on these sort of things, but for anyone interested in my opinion I would personally treat the timing belt as Group B no matter which country I lived in which is exactly what I did today by replacing the timing belt

View attachment 137227

When completing the timing belt change the original belt looks in great condition after 84,000 miles and would probably easily have gone another 84,000 miles but the way I see it rubber ages even if the engine is never running for those who use their car primarily as an EV. It isn't worth the risk.

If anyone is thinking of doing the timing belt, you will need a locking pin set. I can recommend the Laser 6348 which is available for about £30

Just on another side note, for anyone who lives in a dusty country listed below you definitely need to follow the Group B timing belt change intervals:

View attachment 137228
Really?

Do we need to air dirty ICE laundry on an Electric Vehicle forum?

Lets keep it clean and emission free please!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Really?

Do we need to air dirty ICE laundry on an Electric Vehicle forum?

Lets keep it clean and emission free please!
The post was only made to help others as it's a topic that came up on here quite a lot!

It would be very nice to only speak about the electric side of the car but unfortunately at this point combustion engines are still very much a big part and not servicing / looking after the ICE will eventually lead to the EV side of this car malfunctioning as well.
 

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The post was only made to help others as it's a topic that came up on here quite a lot!

It would be very nice to only speak about the electric side of the car but unfortunately at this point combustion engines are still very much a big part and not servicing / looking after the ICE will eventually lead to the EV side of this car malfunctioning as well.
Ignore Freddy, he gets grumpy sometimes! 🙂

I agree, whilst it would be great to switch off ICE use overnight, it’s just not realistic.

PHEVs are part of the solution for a good while yet, and the GTE is one of the good ones.
 

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Ignore Freddy, he gets grumpy sometimes! 🙂

I agree, whilst it would be great to switch off ICE use overnight, it’s just not realistic.

PHEVs are part of the solution for a good while yet, and the GTE is one of the good ones.
Wow, sorry to upset here, thought we could lighten up a little
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wow, sorry to upset here, thought we could lighten up a little
I would heed your own advice, your first reply to the topic wasn't particularly helpful

If we can all just leave it and hopefully the topic can just remain as a helpful post with information not readily available to everyone but information all GTE owners need to know
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Does the below reference refer to a timing chain at the other end of the engine ? View attachment 137672
Yes. Several mechanics including a few VW techs have advised unless you need too don't go near the other side belt it's a bit of a pig to do. I belive it requires electronically timing up with a very expensive tool
 

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Yes. Several mechanics including a few VW techs have advised unless you need too don't go near the other side belt it's a bit of a pig to do. I belive it requires electronically timing up with a very expensive tool
Robb, it's fit for Life because it's a chain not a belt by the description
 

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Aye makes sense, I'm more a fan of chains than belts but unfortunately they do tend to have a tenancy to stretch!
Nah, chains don't stretch that is urban legend stuff (the pins, bushes etc wear which increases the apparent pitch). If the chains were to stretch, that would imply that stress are beyond yield - totally impossible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Nah, chains don't stretch that is urban legend stuff (the pins, bushes etc wear which increases the apparent pitch). If the chains were to stretch, that would imply that stress are beyond yield - totally impossible.
Agreed not actually stretching, but more wearing out / become loose. I think I am right in saying its usually due to poor maintenance and either by using the wrong oil or not changing the oil often enough, the chains are quite temperamental to oil viscosity
 
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