Speak EV - Electric Car Forums banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Just tried charging my S85 this afternoon from 55% SOC and the Rolec wall box keeps clunking on and off.

I unplugged both ends of the cable but the same happened when I reconnected. The only way I could get it to stay charging was sitting in the car with the door open. After about 3mins the charge amps increased and it would keep charging with the doors locked as normal.

Just wondering if anyone has an idea why this might happen and if it's a fault. The only thing I could think of is that it's very cold today
 

·
Chartered Engineer
Joined
·
1,859 Posts
I've had this issue with my Rolec a few times. The only common thing was that the conditions were either wet of frosty and the cable in all but one was touching the ground. I'm wondering if it's an earth leakage issue and either the car or charger is shutting off the current flow and retrying.

Parking close enough to the charger so the cable doesn't sit on the ground seems to have helped and the one occasion where the cable wasn't on the floor there was a lot of frost - in that case I took the plug out, wiped it and the car socket over with a dry towel, re inserted it and hey-pretso it all worked OK.

No definitive answer from me I'm afraid, but that's my experience so far.
 

·
open source sustainable company
Joined
·
617 Posts
My theory is I think the car draws too many amps now and then and the safety switches in the chargers start to make a clicking sound, if this happens try reducing the amps coming into the car on the main screen, this worked for me when I couldn't charge the Model S at all due to charger clicking, the amps reduction solved the issue, now charge at 30amps at all times at home. Might help explain or it is one options.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks - it definitely feels cold related rather than damp, as it hasn't rained in days and my charge cable lives in my boot. I think it must be at the car end as the car is probably seeing something wrong and applying safety measures. However it then instantly forgets and tries to do exactly the same again- I would have thought it would reduce start up draw each time until it found s comfortable level

I'm also wondering whether having the door open and hence the car awake somehow helped e.g. Having the air con starting to warm through in some way caused the charging circuit to also defrost as well. Might be useful to try if others have similar problems
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,863 Posts
My theory is I think the car draws too many amps now and then and the safety switches in the chargers start to make a clicking sound, if this happens try reducing the amps coming into the car on the main screen, this worked for me when I couldn't charge the Model S at all due to charger clicking, the amps reduction solved the issue, now charge at 30amps at all times at home. Might help explain or it is one options.
That explanation doesn't match the reports above: the Rolec at least has no means of measuring the current (other than the breaker which would turn permanently off if there was enough overcurrent to have any effect). I don't believe the Chargemaster does either (based on interior photos), though the design is more proprietary and it's hard to be sure.

Chargemaster (unlike Rolec) does appear to have a software-controlled and hence potentially self-resetting RCD function which could possibly be involved, though it would be unusual to have one that self-reset on such a short timescale.

The car is known to monitor the quality of the incoming power and reduce current when it detects an increased source impedance (as that may indicate overheating), though that's normally a more gradual effect.

The fact that the contactor in the EVSE is clicking, and the voltage shown in the car is going up and down, means that either the car stops asking for power, or the EVSE is deliberately turning off power for its own reasons. In the case of the Rolec, it hasn't got many possible reasons to be concerned about - the controller has no inputs apart from the two pilot connections to the cable and its own power supply.

Clutching at straws, I could suggest ice in the contacts within the EVSE, such that poor contact is obtained and voltage dips when current is drawn, causing the car to believe it has been disconnected and back off to start again. However, this is wild guesswork rather than a firm suggestion.
 

·
Chartered Engineer
Joined
·
1,859 Posts
Hi @Milo I suspect your issue is the same as I've seen. When the contactors are switching in and out I think the car is detecting too large a volt drop and commanding the wall charger box to shut the power off, then retrying. If it works fine in normal conditions but only plays up when it's wet/cold/frosty, the as @dpmgn46 suggests dropping the current a few amps might well fix it. This also ties in with your thoughts of opening the door because this reduces the HEVAC demand down until the door is closed again. I've sometimes found that trying to pre-heat the car causes this issue wheras in the same conditions it's usually OK if I start a charge first - my theory there being that it's in inrush current issue. The HEVAC can draw 8-10kW when heating up so often draws out of the battery as well initially even when plugged in.

Best suggestions are drop the charge current, use a shorter charing lead, try to keep the lead off the floor and make sure all the plug connections are dry when they're made.
 

·
open source sustainable company
Joined
·
617 Posts
On my issue Chargemaster called back to tell me that I was right to drop the amps in the car from 32a down to the lowest setting (under 10a for example) to allow the RCD/breakers to stop activating, then increase the amps back up to 30a (not 32a) where I have this charger now working fine. It is worth a go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
I had problems with my Rolec charger and eventually called the installer back out to take a look. He changed/upgraded something in the charger (fuse possibly) and I've had no issues since. I got the impression that the charger needed the update because of the rate of charge of Tesla's though I wasn't paying particular attention at the time. He certainly gave the impression that he'd updated a fair few of them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,588 Posts
I had problems with my Rolec charger and eventually called the installer back out to take a look. He changed/upgraded something in the charger (fuse possibly) and I've had no issues since. I got the impression that the charger needed the update because of the rate of charge of Tesla's though I wasn't paying particular attention at the time. He certainly gave the impression that he'd updated a fair few of them.
If I recall correctly from the FB group, loads of the RCD's on the Rolec units has been burning out (and been replaced for free) because of bad build quality - don't have access to FB right now to confirm though...
 

·
open source sustainable company
Joined
·
617 Posts
On my issue Chargemaster called back to tell me that I was right to drop the amps in the car from 32a down to the lowest setting (under 10a for example) to allow the RCD/breakers to stop activating, then increase the amps back up to 30a (not 32a) where I have this charger now working fine. It is worth a go.
Well its gone now, the breakers/RCD just kick in at the lowest amps setting, which is 5, it clicks almost instantly so the home charger is now a bit for me at the moment :-(
Can the car be asking too much of the charger? Not sure what the answer is now? Emailing Chargemaster.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top