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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

This might sound like a strange request but bear with me...

I have a Peugeot Ion that has a very early charge unit. These early chargers did not use the normal granny cable EVSE with "brick" that is used today but instead just had a cable that plugged into the power and the car. You can see an example of this here at approx 2m40s

This charger is basically dumb, i.e. you put power to it and it charges at a fixed rate. If you plug in an EVSE it does not know the car is there because the car's charger is not communicating via the pilot signal (thin red wire in the charge cable if you've ever taken one apart!) so charging never commences.

When you give the charger 240v it draws 12A, at 120v it would draw 8A but that isnt particularly useful. There is no simple way to make this charger draw a slightly more sensible 10A @240v. 12A is really too high to draw from a 13A plug for any period of time, the plug gets very warm. I've tested charging for an hour or so on a cold day and it works but is not safe for regular use.

To make this car usable safely I am going to install a 16A caravan socket in my garage and caravan plug on the charge lead, then I will be able to safely charge at 12A and use the car, however this is not ideal as I can't charge at relatives houses when I visit and just reduces the usefulness a bit.

So, if anyone out there has a broken charge unit from any of these cars (or i-miev of course) then please do let me know. I would then attempt to upgrade the onboard charger so that it does communicate via the pilot signal, or use parts from my charger to repair the broken newer one and make the car communicate with a standard EVSE and charge at 10A.

Thanks all !

Gary.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi, I did think about using a timer but wasn’t sure what the on off on off would do to the charger long term.

Fitting the 16A caravan socket in the garage isn’t an issue, it’s just easier if I could use a standard EVSE at relatives houses.

Cheers
 

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Although way down in Australia it might be worth contacting these guys:


GS1011 allows converting one of the earlier cars that has the funky socket that just directly takes 240v instead of an EVSE into a fully J1772 compliant car.

JC9499A698 – AC Inlet wiring harness, Control Pilot Signal enabled - allows full communications with any Level 2 street charger.
YM10 i-MiEV
– changeover only
Changeover suggests that only cars near the changeover point may be suitable not all early cars. Can't hurt to contact them and try to get more information though.

Trying to mix and match charger parts from a much later car with your very early car may not succeed as there are several versions of the charger unit and they differ greatly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Interesting, thanks. Perhaps some changeover cars had the new charger but not the wiring, interesting.

Cheers.
 

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If the warm-up problem is due to the 13A plug ( as opposed to weak contact spring pressure in the socket ), you could try an upgrade to the highest quality 13A plugs, such as Permaplug or MK Toughplug. There are even silver- or gold- ( ! ) plated "MS 328" 13A plugs, which will accept up to 4mm2 wires. These are favoured by audio purists, and are correspondingly priced....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If the warm-up problem is due to the 13A plug ( as opposed to weak contact spring pressure in the socket ), you could try an upgrade to the highest quality 13A plugs, such as Permaplug or MK Toughplug. There are even silver- or gold- ( ! ) plated "MS 328" 13A plugs, which will accept up to 4mm2 wires. These are favoured by audio purists, and are correspondingly priced....
Hi Eddie,

Its got an MK Toughplug on it and a pretty new robust external socket - I took the opportunity on wednesday morning as it was quite cold to plug it in, after a couple of hours it was getting very warm. I would suspect even the fuse would give out some warmth at 12A, on a hot day it would definitely be dangerous. I'm not sure how much better a plated plug would fare. I have ordered 16A commando plug and socket and a waterproof switch - was about £13 all in, that will be enable me to charge the car safely for the time being while I get an MOT and see if everything else works.

In the meantime i'll try and hunt down a newer charger/make a good one out of broken ones/modify the one I have.

Cheers!
 

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Would not waste your time and money trying to get an iMiev J1779 compliant charger to talk to the EVECU which will be running different software being non J1779.

You would probably have more success with an aftermarket charger. I think it's really a matter of having a realistic view of you usage patterns. If you regularly visit a particular relative, install another 16A CEE socket there as well as at your home.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Would not waste your time and money trying to get an iMiev J1779 compliant charger to talk to the EVECU which will be running different software being non J1779.

You would probably have more success with an aftermarket charger. I think it's really a matter of having a realistic view of you usage patterns. If you regularly visit a particular relative, install another 16A CEE socket there as well as at your home.
Yeah, I agree modifying the dumb charger is going to be difficult. Probably best to hunt hard for a newer charger or fix a broken newer one. I am hoping the US warranty extension on charge units will come to the UK one day !

Haha I can see the conversation now "Would you like to come round for a BBQ on Saturday?" me: "Yes please, I'll bring my tools, i've got a present for your garage...". To be honest I could probably convince my dad on the basis it would be easier to plug his caravan in ;-)

If anyone vaguely near SE England has a broken charger i'd be very interested in it !!

Cheers.
 

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Gary, the EV ECU defines and controls all the Comms via Canbus between the Charger and BMS and the Motor and ABS system and a lot more besides. If you put in a layer charger, the firmware in the EVECU almost certainly just won't work with the later WRONG charger.

If you go ahead, you have to be aware that it probably won't work at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Gary, the EV ECU defines and controls all the Comms via Canbus between the Charger and BMS and the Motor and ABS system and a lot more besides. If you put in a layer charger, the firmware in the EVECU almost certainly just won't work with the later WRONG charger.

If you go ahead, you have to be aware that it probably won't work at all.
Hi this is all correct however this is more complex than just being an early car. I didnt want to make the opening post overly difficult to follow but in this case the car originally did have an EVSE-compatible charger but this failed (and not in any repairable way - there is a hole burned through the PCB!) and as a replacement an early "dumb" charger was put in, so if i can get the right bits it will work on this car.

Of course you are right, if you get an early car and just put a later charger in, it will not work with an EVSE charger for various reasons such as the cable from the charge port probably not even having the pilot wire.

Apologies for any confusion, just wanted to keep it not too complicated to follow, and I appreciate your advice.

Cheers.
 

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So presumably you have a PSA DIAGBOX diagnostics and ECU tool. When you look at the charger and EVECU, what if any diagnostics are you getting.

It might be worth trying to narrow down the RPO range or a least build dates for the donor car that you hope to get the charger from

Regards
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No diagbox, im just a hobby spanner-thrower. I have a decent scanner that I used for my old i-miev but that wont communicate with the Peugeot, i'll pick up the Peugeot version of it and see what that gives me.
 
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