[tommydog1]

I recently had a 32amp commando socket installed for my Ohme charger. Is there an adaptor I can buy to convert the commando socket to a standard socket for plugging general electrical items in (e.g. lawnmower etc)? I purchased the below thinking it may work, but the plug was too small to go into the commando socket:

Fly Lead Socket Convertor 16A Lead to 13A Socket

Manufactured from 250mm arctic blue cable. 16 amp lead to 13 amp socket. Manufactured to BS 60309.

www.toolstation.com

Does anyone have a link to an adaptor that will work?

 

[cah197]

You just need to find an adaptor for the blue 32 amp socket - they’re bigger.

Probsbly harder to find as the normal size in caravan parks is 16 amp. Or you could make one up.

Literally the first thing I googled: Range of Custom Adaptors using 13 amp, 16 amp, 32 amp and 63 amp Single (240v/230v) and Three Phase (415v, 400v) Plugs, Connectors and Socket Boards

 

[mikegs]

As you've discovered the 32 and 16A parts are different sizes.
Just substitute 32A for 16A when you search (though you'll still get a bunch of 16s in the results, so check carefully). I found one on eBay quite quickly, so they are out there.

 

[mad_rich]

I really struggled to find one. 32A ones don't appear to be very common.

Got one made up by Toughleads in the end, and been very happy with it

 

[cah197]

32A ones don't appear to be very common.

They're sold to the building trade, but tend to be things with a multiple gang on the three pin side for site work.

 

[tommydog1]

I found one on eBay quite quickly, so they are out there.

Which one did you buy? Do you have the link?

 

[tommydog1]

You just need to find an adaptor for the blue 32 amp socket - they’re bigger.

Wonder if I can get an adapter to convert the small one I have to a larger size to work in my commando socket? I say this, as it may be useful to keep the one I have if I am ever on a caravan site etc. I just saw this - would this work:

Defender E85323 32A Fly Lead-32A (Plug) to 16A (Socket) 110V, 240 V, Black : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Shop Defender E85323 32A Fly Lead-32A (Plug) to 16A (Socket) 110V, 240 V, Black. Free delivery on eligible orders of £20 or more.

www.amazon.co.uk

 

[Hitstirrer]

Defender 32 Amp to 13 Amp Double Adaptor Fly Lead (justgenerators.co.uk)

 

[Kiltox]

This looks good if you’re worried about water resistance although I’m sure you could make it up for less! 32A 230v Plug to Twin 13A Waterproof IP54 socket

 

[tommydog1]

These are the links to some of the products:

Defender 32 Amp to 13 Amp Double Adaptor Fly Lead: (£15.95 - out of stock)

Defender 32 Amp to 13 Amp Double Adaptor Fly Lead

The Defender 32amp to 13amp double Adaptor Flylead has a 32 Amp generator plug on one end and a 13 amp domestic rubber double socket on the other end

www.justgenerators.co.uk

Generator 32 Amp Plug To 13 Amp Twin Socket 2.5mm cable (2m): (£19)

Generator 32 Amp Plug To 13 Amp Twin Socket 2.5mm cable: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

Free delivery and returns on eligible orders. Buy Generator 32 Amp Plug To 13 Amp Twin Socket 2.5mm cable (2m) at Amazon UK.

www.amazon.co.uk

32 Amp Plug to 13 Amp Socket Adapter fly lead 2.5mm cores 32amp to 13amp (£14.99):

32 Amp Plug to 13 Amp Socket Adapter fly lead 2.5mm cores 32amp to 13amp | eBay

32amp plug is the larger of the blue plugs the 16amp being smaller. 32 amp plug to 13 amp trailing socket. the cable is blue arctic flex 3x 2.5mm cores. cable has three x 2.5mm cores cable is approx 75cm long.

www.ebay.co.uk

32A 230V PLUG TO TWIN 13A WATERPROOF IP54 SOCKET (£46.75):

32A 230v Plug to Twin 13A IP66 Waterproof Socket [Select Length]

32A 240V to Twin 13A Waterproof IP66 Sockets Delivery 1-2 Days

www.essentialsupplies.co.uk

 

[tommydog1]

This looks good if you’re worried about water resistance although I’m sure you could make it up for less! 32A 230v Plug to Twin 13A Waterproof IP54 socket

Would something like that work with this:
2-Way Splitter MASO 32A 220v IP44 2 Way 3 pin Industrial Site Plug & Wall Socket Waterproof IP44 Plug Connector Socket 2P+Earth Male/Female £18.69):

2-Way Splitter MASO 32A 220v IP44 2 Way 3 pin Industrial Site Plug & Wall Socket Waterproof IP44 Plug Connector Socket 2P+Earth Male/Female : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Shop 2-Way Splitter MASO 32A 220v IP44 2 Way 3 pin Industrial Site Plug & Wall Socket Waterproof IP44 Plug Connector Socket 2P+Earth Male/Female. Free delivery on eligible orders of £20 or more.

www.amazon.co.uk

2-Way Splitter MASO 32A 220v IP44 2 Way 3 pin Industrial Site Plug & Wall Socket Waterproof IP44 Plug Connector Socket 2P+Earth Male/Female

That way I would have a permanent 13amp socket screwed on the wall and would not have to keep plugging and unplugging from the command socket, The other end would then be free for the Ohme charger.

 

[Kiltox]

Imagine so but you run the risk of overloading the circuit if you used both at once.

 

[cah197]

Imagine so but you run the risk of overloading the circuit if you used both at once.

He could fit an interlock switch if he didn’t trust himself.

 

[mikegs]

Which one did you buy? Do you have the link?

I didn't buy one. I was checking before replying to your question.

It was actually the one in your later post #10 - third one down.

 

[Sputnik72]

I recently had a 32amp commando socket installed for my Ohme charger. Is there an adaptor I can buy to convert the commando socket to a standard socket for plugging general electrical items in (e.g. lawnmower etc)? I purchased the below thinking it may work, but the plug was too small to go into the commando socket:

Fly Lead Socket Convertor 16A Lead to 13A Socket

Manufactured from 250mm arctic blue cable. 16 amp lead to 13 amp socket. Manufactured to BS 60309.

www.toolstation.com

Does anyone have a link to an adaptor that will work?

This is something I've been thinking of doing, using an Ohme cable with a commando socket. How much roughly did the socket cost to be fitted and is there any need for an earthrod etc?

 

[mad_rich]

Requirement for earth rod will depend on your existing system. If you have a TT earth, you won't need a rod.

I think I paid about £150 for supply & fit of a Commando socket + new breaker, which involved running the cable under the floorboards and connecting to a spare way on my consumer unit. I didn't need an earth rod.

 

[HandyAndy]

Requirement for earth rod will depend on your existing system. If you have a TT earth, you won't need a rod...

Not quite that simple, I think. Been a lot of discussion here recently, and I think a concensus was reached.
IF your EVSE is inside gge, AND car is ALWAYS charged inside gge, no extra earth Rod needed. Complications start when car is charged outside.
If you have TT earth, this is 2 wires to your house. So house will have its own earth Rod. EVSE will need an earth Rod, or must have PEN-Loss protection device fitted.
Your sparky should be able to say if the existing house rod is ok as is, or if you need another adding.
Other house wiring likely to be TN-C-S in effect, this being 3 wires to house. E wire may or may not be connected to N wire further back up the supply, anyone's guess after roads dug up, breaks repaired etc. In this case, the EVSE needs either its own earth Rod, or the PEN-Loss protection device.

It's all about isolating the outdoors car from the house while charging, or getting the earth voltage to a safe low level if a fault upstream tries to push it high. Earth Rod on the EVSE clamps this low, PEN-Loss device isolates the E wire to car from EVSE, and the L+N contactor also opens, so in effect this is like pulling the charge plug out of the car to make the body shell safe.

Bottom line is if PEN-Loss device fitted, Earth rod not needed. Sparky must confirm this for you.

 

[barneyd]

If you have TT earth, this is 2 wires to your house. So house will have its own earth Rod. EVSE will need an earth Rod, or must have PEN-Loss protection device fitted.

Why does the EVSE need its own earth rod if you already have one at the house? How would a PEN-Loss device work on a TT earthing system with no supplier PEN?

The risk that the earth rod or PEN loss device is mitigating is the loss of the star point to earth connection at the substation allowing the phase voltages to differ and pulling the neutral voltage away from true earth and raising the potential of the body of car relative to the ground it is standing on. If you have an earth rod at the house, the amount of ground potential difference between the car and the earth rod would be tiny.

 

[barneyd]

Whichever adaptor you choose, keep the cable as short as possible. The Commando socket is protected by a 32A fuse/circuit breaker so the smallest size of flexible cable that can be safety protected is 4mm2 (Table 4F3A). You would struggle to get that into the 13A socket so the cable on these adapters is likely to be lighter and therefore vulnerable to overheating/catching fire in the event of a fault such as cable damage. The shorter the length the less chance of the cable getting damaged. The cable and appliance downstream of the 13A is protected by the fuse in the 13A plug (assuming it's the right rating).

Personally, I'd also want an RCD. You need 120A to drop a 32A BS EN 60898 breaker within the required disconnection time (Fig 3A4) and I wouldn't want that flowing through me whilst mowing the lawn!

 

[HandyAndy]

Why does the EVSE need its own earth rod if you already have one at the house?

First off, I'm not a sparky, just an engineer who's taken a deep interest in the discussions elsewhere & tried to drive to get a concensus. The TT-house model wasn't discussed deeply, as the video supplied by an expert summarised that scenario as simple, and concentrated on the more complicated T-N-C-S setups. My statement here

"EVSE will need an earth Rod, or must have PEN-Loss protection device fitted."

does not say that the EVSE in the TT scenario needs it's own earth rod. That's your reading. An Earth rod is needed, somewhere, and as far as I'm concerned the sparky can advise on that. Are two better than one? Not my call. I'm not qualified to. But I'll happily comment & feedback what I've understood so far to be the concensus, and if I've got it wrong somewhere, I'm sure a lot of other guys can as well. I welcome better information.

How would a PEN-Loss device work on a TT earthing system with no supplier PEN?

I think the PEN-loss device is not needed if you have TT, because the Earth Rod clamps the car's bodywork to Ground potential (safely low). Otoh, if you insisted on activating it, e.g. because your EVSE comes with it, then if it trips, it will be isolating the earth-rod-connected E wire from EVSE to the car, at the same time as the L+N get disconnected. So it's isolating the car by pulling the charging plug out (in a virtual sense of course), exactly as it would in the PME setup, but at the same time also disconnecting the Earth rod as well! So I can't see any gain in safety tbh. So no point paying for this feature if you already have, or prefer, an Earth rod system. Unless someone else can some extra benefit.

The only noticeable difference in behaviour I can think of, is the PEN loss system triggers after a small leakage current has passed down the E wire from EVSE to car's bodyshell, from there to your fingers, then through you to the ground outside, giving you a very brief shock. I guess this might feel like a decent static shock sometimes felt when unlocking the car in summer? Whereas this won't happen with the Earth-rod setup, providing that's in good order and conducting adequately.

The risk that the earth rod or PEN loss device is mitigating is the loss of the star point to earth connection at the substation allowing the phase voltages to differ and pulling the neutral voltage away from true earth and raising the potential of the body of car relative to the ground it is standing on. If you have an earth rod at the house, the amount of ground potential difference between the car and the earth rod would be tiny.

That makes sense. So can I take it that you're happy to have the TT-connected house using just the house's own Earth rod for the EVSE as well? If qualified sparkies on here are happy with that, fine by me.