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I'm consistently getting wind noise from my sun roof. Very noticeable above 60 mph. Anybody else getting this? I've looked at the seal and appears fine. Sometimes, opening and closing will reduce it but mostly it makes no difference now. Any other suggestions? Is there a product I can safely smear on the seal to help.
 

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Silicone grease is useful for a number of things, like in the window shuts to help them close smoothly.. Maybe it will help your sunroof make a better seal. A tube is only a few quid off Amazon.
 

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I'm consistently getting wind noise from my sun roof. Very noticeable above 60 mph. Anybody else getting this? I've looked at the seal and appears fine. Sometimes, opening and closing will reduce it but mostly it makes no difference now. Any other suggestions? Is there a product I can safely smear on the seal to help.
Are you 100% sure that it is actually the sun roof glass / seals that is causing the problem ?.
When the wind is strong and depending on the winds direction, you can some times hear the car produce a wind "Howling" noise.
I am unsure if it being produced by the roof bars, it does sound very much like this type of noise.
Tesla Bjorn has also reported hearing this wind "Howling" noise and has past an opinion that he thinks it COULD be being produced by the arial mast on the roof of the car ?.
It has a spiral configuration running the full length of the mast.
Easy to prove / disprove his theory by unscrewing the mast and repeat the road test on a day when the noise is present.
One of the downsides of owning an EV is that any wind noise / cabin rattles etc soon become very evident due to the lack of back ground mechanical engine sounds present in an ICE car.
When travelling over a tarmac road with a very badly broken road surface, the interior trims that cover the "A" pillars on each side of the front windscreen produce an annoying plastic type rattle on my car.
When this happens, if you push hard on the trim, the rattle then instantly stops.
I think it must be the clips located on the back of the trim rattling ?.
Another member has reported this problem to his dealer and they have removed the trims and packed the rear of with some type of foam to prevent the rattling.
Doing this, must place extra load on the clips on the back of the trim maybe.
Maybe the original owner who reported this problem may like to expand on this story a little more please ?.
Did it cure the problem is the 99$ question I guess.
MG must be aware of this issue, in order to instruct the dealer to install the foam packers behind the windscreen trims in attempt to cure the problem.
The rattle is not evident on a smooth road surface of course.
 

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MG EZS 2020
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When travelling over a tarmac road with a very badly broken road surface, the interior trims that cover the "A" pillars on each side of the front windscreen produce an annoying plastic type rattle on my car.
Mine's got a steering wheel binnacle buzz. I know it's that as it stops when I put my hand on it.
 

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The rattle is not evident on a smooth road surface of course.
The main road off our estate has just been resurfaced. Inside the MG is whisper silent now. :):):):)(y)(y)
 

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Bit of an update on the "A" pillar trim rattle.
I was sat in the car today and when I used the back of my knuckles to tap the windscreen trim, I am able to reproduce the rattle sound I can hear while driving over a rough cut up tarmac surface.
I had an idea it maybe the clips that attach the trim to the "A" pillar, but after some further investigation it appears that the rattle is coming from the area where the small sound speaker lives in the trim.
I carefully removed the grill and speaker from the drivers side by using a plastic trim removal tool.
Just a small white pin holds down the wiring connecter to the speaker, then it can be removed from the car.
With the speaker and grill now in my hand, by shaking the grill from side to side, I can clearly hear the very small speaker rattling around in the housing in the back of the trim piece.
Tapping the front of the grill reproduces the same rattle as when it is installed in the car.
This had me wondering if this could be the problem.
To prove / disprove my theory, I could carried out a test drive with both of the speakers removed of course.
But I decided to unclip the small speaker from its housing to investigate.
The speaker has a black hard plastic circular surround and the housing is made of a similar white hard plastic circular housing to accept the speaker, when the speaker is clicked into place the rattles around because there is no soft cushion gasket to reduce the tolerance between the two components.
Some very thin sticky backed felt would be okay or even better a circular felt gasket put under the speaker surround maybe ?.
I did not want to do anything permanent or to radical due warranty implications of course, but wanted to test out my theory.
So, using a very sharp craft knife I cut a couple of strips about 2mm wide down a 50mm length of black electrical tape.
I then wrapped a couple of lengths around each the outer edge of each speaker surround.
Then refitted both speakers into the speaker surrounds.
The tape provided a gasket between the speaker and the speaker housings.
Refitted the speaker grills back into the "A" pillar covers.
Did a small test drive and could not hear any rattles, but I will test over the next few days and report back on my findings for anybody who may just have the same issue.
The problem is only evident on rough surface roads, it drives me mad !.
 

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If it is as it sounds with the speaker then packing with foam or felt tape should do the trick. It’s always worth being a bit careful round A pillar trim. Often special clips are used to allow operation of the SRS airbags so the trim breaks away correctly when deployed. If it ended up being the pillar trim rattling, I’d be minded to take it to the dealer in the first instance.
 

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If it is as it sounds with the speaker then packing with foam or felt tape should do the trick. It’s always worth being a bit careful round A pillar trim. Often special clips are used to allow operation of the SRS airbags so the trim breaks away correctly when deployed. If it ended up being the pillar trim rattling, I’d be minded to take it to the dealer in the first instance.
Thanks for the “Tip” regarding the clips in the “A” post pillars.
I would definitely not recommend trying to remove the enter white covers.
If you easy off the door seal from around the section of the door, it will allow you to see behind the “A” post plastic cover.
You can clearly see the special clips that you refer to and the SRS air bag system.
To remove the speaker from the lower section of the “A” post trim, you just need to use a thin plastic trim tool to release the four clips that secure it.
Unclip the small wiring loom clip and you are holding the complete speaker in your hand.
Only carry out this procedure if you feel comfortable and confident to do so, and do NOT be tempted to use a screwdriver to try and remove the speaker.
It will mark your “A” pillar trim if you do.
I will post back after a few days when I have had time to see if it cures the problem.
Nothing to loose only the 30 minutes it took me to remove and refit both speakers.
The tape can be quickly be removed if it turns out not to rectify the problem.
I hope it is a successful fix, as it has been driving me mad for weeks now !.
It’s never a problem on the perfect surface, but any rough tarmac and you can hear it straight away.
Fingers firmly crossed !.
 

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If you can get some acoustic foam to surround the tweeter it may also have an additional effect of rounding out the sound, I would imagine there is zero sound deadening in the doors even around the speakers (this isn't a dig at MG, when I replaced the factory speakers in a 10 year old BMW, they had zero sound deadening, its something manufacturers cheap out on, although the more you put in the more weight you are adding to the car, so there is a trade off in an EV). I'm wondering about doing this on all speakers as an alpha stage of looking at the sound system when I get the car (I'll probably move to phase 1 then and replace the mids and tweeters and maybe add a low profile bass speaker under the passenger seat).
 
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What about small blobs of glue from a glue gun to hold the speaker in place as seen in a lot of electrinics, a lot less fiddley
 

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What about small blobs of glue from a glue gun to hold the speaker in place as seen in a lot of electrinics, a lot less fiddley
Hi @GMat thanks, I did think about using the hot glue method myself as a permanent fix, this I may return to do, if the temporary fix of tape cures the rattling problem.
It only takes a couple of minutes to pop out both of the speakers.
I just though the black tape was something that I could remove without any trace and return the speakers to the original OEM condition if it did not cure the irritating rattle from the “A” pillar covers when travelling over broken surface tarmac.
Thanks for the suggestion though - Cheers !.
 

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I was cleaning the dash on Sunday and I noticed no SRS logo on the A pillar trim. RTFM confirms no pillar airbag so it’s ok to play with that trim. 🤦🏻‍♂️
 

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I was cleaning the dash on Sunday and I noticed no SRS logo on the A pillar trim. RTFM confirms no pillar airbag so it’s ok to play with that trim. 🤦🏻‍♂️

For those of the hard of reading. :ROFLMAO:

 

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I've been trying to play whack-a-mole with the creaking/clicking sounds I've been getting from the car (the joy of things not being masked by a rumbling engine) that seem to come from both A-pillars and across the front of the dash, my guess on the later being where it meets to glass for the windscreen. With the A-pillars, I have taken out the tweeter inserts (as above) and removed the tweeter from the plastic grill insert and added a little bit of felt 3m backed tape to the front of the tweeter and around the edge so it sits snugly in the grill and has no play. Next around the bevelled edge of the grill where it goes back into the A, I have also added a very thin piece of the felt tape around the edge to form a more cushioned gasket when it is clipped back in place. Still I'm getting the clicking/creaking sound from this area at low speed and it appears to come from across the front of the dash as well, again as @Carty says above only at slow speeds over uneven surfaces. I also note there seems to be a fair bit of play in the A-pillar in that you can pull down and it has quite a bit of movement at the back and front where it meets the windscreen.

@Carty how are your rattles, still not coming back? I'm thinking I may have reached the point of a dealer vist and to get them to pack out the back of the a-pillar void to make it a snugger fit.
 

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The dealer's mechanic knew straight away about the A-pillar rattles and has fixed it. Not totally but now much better. Apparently he has been fixing the same A-pillar rattles on the petrol ZS for a couple of years! Still got the steering wheel clicks but only in warmer temperatures. It goes in for the HV Fuse service advisory and BMS update next week. Might mention it to them again.

No sun roof on the Excite so can not comment. There is a little wind noise from the wind mirrors. Also replaced the standard wire aerial with a shorter metal one and that has reduced some wind noise.
 

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Still I'm getting the clicking/creaking sound from this area at low speed and it appears to come from across the front of the dash as well, again as @Carty says above only at slow speeds over uneven surfaces.
Hi @shikoku14 .
I have the very same slight clicking / creaking noise which appears to be coming from different areas of the front of the dash.
It is evident when the body flexes over uneven ground.
After curing the louder rattle that came from the speakers in the "A" pillar trims, this slight trim creaking noise is proving a little more difficult to track down.
I am pretty sure it is not coming from the trims on the "A" pillars though ?.
However, I do have a bit of a theory of what it COULD be though.
From outside of the car, look down to where the wiper scuttle panel meets the front windscreen.
There is a length of rubber moulding that fits onto the plastic moulding and then the rubber seal / gasket presses hard against the front wind screen glass.
Is the "Ticking / Cracking" noise the rubber gasket dragging / moving against the glass when the body flexes ?.
This could be proven by removing the entire trim, together with the rubber seal and test driving the car to see if the problem has gone away.
The trim can be removed by raising the bonnet and removing the screws that attach it.
The only issue is that the wiper arms have to be removed first.
This is likely to require a wiper arm puller to facilitate this action plan.
The slight "Ticking / Creaking" noise from the dash is the only annoying target to hit on my list right now.
One of the problems of having a almost silent EV is you pick up on every slight noise in the cabin !.
Not really a problem on a oil burner, the engine noise blocks out everything !.
 
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