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2020 Vauxall Corsa E
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I'll want to get round to hardwiring my dashcam eventually, though I'm nervous of taking my new car apart. So in the meantime I want to restrain the exuberance of the wire from the lighter socket to the camera. I keep looking for ways of sticking wires to the dash, and they keep improving the non-stick. Previously those smallest size command picture hooks have worked reasonably well if you pick your surface. With this new car they don't begin to stick.

What works for you?
 

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Not the same car but... I ran my dashcam cable through the glovebox, up the windscreen pillar (tucking it under the trim which was bendy enough) and similarly along along the top of the windscreen to its mounting position. Not completely invisible but acceptable in my case.
 

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I hard wired my dashcam in my Corsa-e. It wasn't difficult and I can give you some tips if you need them. Only tools I needed were Torx screwdriver to remove the glovebox to better access the fuses, a multimeter, a cheap trim removal kit and a piggyback fuse.

I wired it to the lighter socket fuse.


 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I hard wired my dashcam in my Corsa-e. It wasn't difficult and I can give you some tips if you need them. Only tools I needed were Torx screwdriver to remove the glovebox to better access the fuses, a multimeter, a cheap trim removal kit and a piggyback fuse.

I wired it to the lighter socket fuse.


Just seen how short the wire on this dashcam is. But you're right. I think I'll have to get a kit. At the moment the only thing that keeps the wire under control is gaffer tape, and I think that's only sticking by suction.

I've been looking at some "hide the wire" videos, but this one doesn't have anything like enough wire to do that. Just having a rummage to see if I have a longer cable somewhere.

I presume, since it's usb power, just about any hard wiring kit will do the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I've just been looking in the fuse box compartment, and at an on-line owner's guide. Looking in the compartment the actual fuse board is behind a rat's nest of cables and plugs, (which is not what the manual indicates). I can see why you'd need to take the glove compartment apart.

20210105_103631165_iOS.jpg


This is the first car I've owned where the glove compartment can't hold much more than a pair of gloves, BTW
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, I've got the bits, and I've got the trim removal kit. I've even got a star pattern screwdriver. So I could use some hints.
 

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There are 4 screws that hold the glove compartment on. You'll find these easily enough. Even with the pax seat full back there's not a lot of room and you'll have to perform some contortions to do it all. Preferably in a dry garage. If not, I'd wait until late spring.

Ideally, you'll have a head torch and an area torch. You'll need long nose pliers to get to the fuse you want to use. Ideally, you'll also have a voltmeter to check that the fuse you're using isn't live all the time.

The headliner is easy enough to get the cable behind although I'd suggest small cable ties about every 15-20cm. Just cut all the excess off and those ties will stay behind the headliner. If you don't use them, there is a chance that the cable will pop out from behind the headliner. As for the rest of the trim, you only have to pop one side of the A-pillar lining. You'll have to pop the lining at the left-hand edge of the dash.

Make sure you neatly coil up all the excess cable and tape of cable tie is together and leave it behind the glove compartment.

I used the fuse for the power plug as that is only ON when the acc or car is ON. The choice though, is yours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There are 4 screws that hold the glove compartment on. You'll find these easily enough. Even with the pax seat full back there's not a lot of room and you'll have to perform some contortions to do it all. Preferably in a dry garage. If not, I'd wait until late spring.

Ideally, you'll have a head torch and an area torch. You'll need long nose pliers to get to the fuse you want to use. Ideally, you'll also have a voltmeter to check that the fuse you're using isn't live all the time.

The headliner is easy enough to get the cable behind although I'd suggest small cable ties about every 15-20cm. Just cut all the excess off and those ties will stay behind the headliner. If you don't use them, there is a chance that the cable will pop out from behind the headliner. As for the rest of the trim, you only have to pop one side of the A-pillar lining. You'll have to pop the lining at the left-hand edge of the dash.

Make sure you neatly coil up all the excess cable and tape of cable tie is together and leave it behind the glove compartment.

I used the fuse for the power plug as that is only ON when the acc or car is ON. The choice though, is yours.
Which end did you start the cable run from? Presumably the top
 

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Which end did you start the cable run from? Presumably the top
Yes. I had already been using my dashcam with a lighter socket plug. I had to replace the cable so started at the top which was easy to measure the length required. Fed it across and down the A pillar and let it dangle there until I got the glove box off and the trim on the side of the dash.

The tricky bit is contorting yourself to see the fuses clearly, get your hand and tools in to remove the required fuse, test the circuit with the car on and off. Once you've decided on the correct fuse to place the piggy-back fuse into, you then can connect the wires up with whatever method you are using. I crimped mine. Coil the remaining cable and tie it off and taped it to the structure so it wasn't flopping around.

The biggest problem I had was finding a decent location for the - negative connection. I can't remember which bolt I used in the end. I just had to test everywhere to make sure it was bonded to the frame. I'm sure you'll figure it out.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes. I had already been using my dashcam with a lighter socket plug. I had to replace the cable so started at the top which was easy to measure the length required. Fed it across and down the A pillar and let it dangle there until I got the glove box off and the trim on the side of the dash.

The tricky bit is contorting yourself to see the fuses clearly, get your hand and tools in to remove the required fuse, test the circuit with the car on and off. Once you've decided on the correct fuse to place the piggy-back fuse into, you then can connect the wires up with whatever method you are using. I crimped mine. Coil the remaining cable and tie it off and taped it to the structure so it wasn't flopping around.

The biggest problem I had was finding a decent location for the - negative connection. I can't remember which bolt I used in the end. I just had to test everywhere to make sure it was bonded to the frame. I'm sure you'll figure it out.

Good luck.
I did find an on-line "owner's manual" which identifies the fuses by number.
 

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I did find an on-line "owner's manual" which identifies the fuses by number.
I hope you're getting OK. I think I used the diagram from this website: Fuse Box Diagram Opel / Vauxhall Corsa F (2019-2020..) as the Corsa F is the same basic model. If you put Corsa-e into the search box you get all the old version of the Corsa. I used fuse 31 from (Instrument Panel Left side) the passenger side which is the 12v power outlet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The thing that I'm nervous of it removing the trim, particularly from the A post, but also whichever component of the dash. To open these poppers needs usually needs quite a lot of force, and not knowing where the poppers are, or if the piece is hooked in along one side/end you can do damage. I've been looking for video tutorials and some of them carry warnings, as yet I haven't found one specific to the Corsa. I've struggled before with panels where it's been far from obvious which edge they are supposed to open along. Could be worse, some cars have air-bags in there. There's a speaker but that's just a matter of how long the wires are.

In this article it says
Interior and Exterior Trim on vehicles is installed in a way that fasteners are hidden from view. This makes the removal of these parts without damaging them one of the more difficult processes in auto repair.
For the most part understanding how trim parts are attached is a combination of experience and guess work. The process should be performed slowly and with much thought to find exactly where and how you should pry on a fastener to remove it.
Can you tell me where to pry?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Finally had a crack at this. Got the glove box out, actually there are 5 screws to remove, two in the top rim, two just below the hinges and one under the fuse box cover to the left.The fuse box remains difficult to access, behind a rat's nest of wiring, plugs and sockets.

I ran the wire without too much trouble. But then when I looked at the fuse tap which came with the hard wiring kit against the fuse box it's far too big. Not sure if I need a mini or a micro but whichever I don't have one. Will probably have to order one. So I put the car back together for the time being. Should have measured a fuse first but I didn't know they came in three sizes until I started looking for one online.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, I finished the job yesterday. Quite difficult to align the fuse tap because you can't get both your eyes and your fingers to it at the same time. You have to do it mostly by feel. There's little or no metalwork to connect the -ve to in the compartment and I wound up using the screw in the middle of the compartment divider to the right. Now it's even more of a rat's nest than it was when I started, but it seems to work correctly. My dashcam doesn't have a need for an unswitched 12v, it uses an internal battery when in park mode which simplified things.

Definitely couldn't have done it without removing the glove box completely. There are five screws to take out. One to the left in behind the fuse box cover, two pointing upwards in the top of the box where the closure is, and two in the center and right bottom of the box, very tight against the hinge where the door opens. There's a kind of skirt attached to the bottom of the box which forms the roof of the passenger foot well but you can leave it attached to the glove box. You need one of those screw drivers with the star shaped business end, preferably a fairly stubby one.

There's a fuse puller tool clipped to the inside of the fuse compartment cover. Looks a bit like a clothes peg. Probably less likely to damage the fuse you pull our than pliers.

I got the fuse tap from Halfords. Electrician there was very helpful, he even changed the coupler on the wire from the fuse tap for me when he spotted the one on the fitting kit didn't match. He says almost all cars these days use minis.
 
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