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Discussion Starter #1
So this isn't great.

The Ampera worked perfectly this morning. Go out to it this evening . . . and it won't respond at all.

Press the buttons on the remote - nothing.
Open the door with the key. No lights, no sounds.
Foot on the brake, press 'on' - nothing.
Put the key in the secret slot above the satnav, press 'on' - nothing.
Walk home (only 2 miles), get the other key and try it all - still nothing.
New battery in the remote - nothing.

Is there anything under the secret slot? When I put the key in there it just flops around.

Any ideas?
I expect it's the 12V battery - that's old - but there always seems to be some warning.
 

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The secret slot is just a hole but it's by the key sensor so the key will work with a flat fob battery.

This sounds like the 12V battery has failed. The jump start terminals are under the bonnet - see the manual. Any battery over 4 years old seem to be suspect and if this is the original could easily be 8 years old.
Hopefully a jump-start will get it going then a new battery can be fitted.
 

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Five plus years is good going on a 12v battery on most cars in recent years, there is so much drain from all the canbus systems and accessories that are standard.
Hope that is all it is and hence cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK, what's the best way?
Buy one from Halfords or get a firm to do it? I'm not much good at mending cars.
 

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This is exactly the scenario I faced only yesterday. See my thread just a few below yours https://www.speakev.com/threads/12v-battery-drained-by-ecu-staying-live.148150/unread

Something fishy going on here! Where abouts do you live? I'm in Manchester. One of my suspects for causing this issue is some sort of radio interference causing the keyless entry system to keep the cars ECU awake... Incidentally my car still has the issue - I'm having to keep my 12v battery topped up every few hours as the drain is enough to kill it after 12-24h. I have diagnostic work to do on it - but primary suspicion is currently the keyless system.
 

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This is exactly the scenario I faced only yesterday. See my thread just a few below yours 12v battery drained by ECU staying live

Something fishy going on here! Where abouts do you live? I'm in Manchester. One of my suspects for causing this issue is some sort of radio interference causing the keyless entry system to keep the cars ECU awake... Incidentally my car still has the issue - I'm having to keep my 12v battery topped up every few hours as the drain is enough to kill it after 12-24h. I have diagnostic work to do on it - but primary suspicion is currently the keyless system.
Have you tried putting it into transport mode and see if the drain Stops
 

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Have you tried putting it into transport mode and see if the drain Stops
I've thought about it, but not got there yet. I've currently got my borrowed clamp meter on the negative cable and trying various things (locked/unlocked) to see if it solves the issue. Thinking to try disabling the keyless entry next. Transport mode will almost certainly 'solve' the issue but isn't really a solution if you see what I mean?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This is exactly the scenario I faced only yesterday. See my thread just a few below yours 12v battery drained by ECU staying live

Something fishy going on here! Where abouts do you live? I'm in Manchester. One of my suspects for causing this issue is some sort of radio interference causing the keyless entry system to keep the cars ECU awake... Incidentally my car still has the issue - I'm having to keep my 12v battery topped up every few hours as the drain is enough to kill it after 12-24h. I have diagnostic work to do on it - but primary suspicion is currently the keyless system.
I'm in Sheffield - the car was parked in a normal place for the working day, at least 100m from the key.
I suppose there could be something new, but it was parked in the same place yesterday and was fine.
 

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I'm in Sheffield - the car was parked in a normal place for the working day, at least 100m from the key.
I suppose there could be something new, but it was parked in the same place yesterday and was fine.
My car was also parked in exactly the same place near work where it's sat many a time over the last couple of years. There was no good explanation.
Just watched the car (whilst locked) increase amp drain from 0.5 gradually up to 10 amp and then down again gradually. 10 amp will drain a 12v battery fairly quickly... It seems to repeat this process when triggered, but still none the wiser what might be triggering it.
 

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14 plate means nothing, The my12 cars were registered up until a 2015 as were the my13 cars.
If you have the power meter in the DC it's a my13 which is slightly better.
Ring round as some Halford refuse to work on EV'S and I imagine some other battery places will be equally panicked.
 

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I'm not that handy with cars but there is a step-by-step somewhere here on how to replace the battery which makes it a breeze, so long as you have the right tools.
 

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If you don't want to do it yourself try the AA who will help (at a price even if you are not a member). Check first whether they will be able to help with it being a hybrid. I would trust them over Halfords even if that is faint praise.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, I got a garage to come out and jumpstart my Ampera.

The 12V read 0.02V!
The car woke up as soon as the jump leads were connected.
Switched on OK but the ICE turned on immediately.
The clock was showing dashes and the automotive battery was flat.

Disconnected, switched off - wouldn't switch back on. I got some lights and dash, but it wouldn't switch on.

Jumpstart again.
Reduced propulsion power warning. Tried driving - all happy.
It's only 5 miles to the Pentagon garage (one of the ampera service centres) so I drive over there. ICE running all the time, even when stopped at the lights.

They do a battery test on the 12V . . . and everything's working!
Measured at 12.77V.

I switch on and everything's back to normal - the automotive battery is charged to the right level, the clock's right, drives on electric as normal, no messages.

The only thing I can think of is that something drained the 12V, and without that everything else stopped working properly.

Very, very odd.
 

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powering up with the bonnet open will start the ICE, this is part of the service mode so a garage can run the ICE without having to take it for a drive ;)

Change that battery! Lead Acid batteries do not like being flattened so if it was OK it is not now. The only real test is a capacity test and its probably cheaper to fit a new battery. Garages will do a discharge test suitable for a cranking battery using a thing called a toaster! This is not a cranking battery.

Mine is due to have its 3rd battery swapped in soon and its a 64 plate - Paranoid or what....
 

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Diy battery replacement thread here: Ampera 12V Battery Replacement Process

MY13 model looks after battery better than MY12, as when plugged into EVSE for > 1 day, it wakes up every 24 hours & checks the 12V is charged up. So MY12s can drain slowly over a period of 2 or more weeks, and might need a trickle charger to mantain for months without use.
 

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Classic sign of a battery on the way out is that it all works when run for a while but one of the cells is weak and will quickly drag the whole thing down. On the assumption that you hadn't done something silly and leave a drain on I'd swap it as a precaution. Most batteries have a manufacturing month/year on them, if it's more than 4 years old replace it as a precaution but don't recycle it until you see if the new battery fails quickly.
 
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