[rbrt]

Some people have asked about installing dash cams in the ZE50 and hard wiring them in so I'll share what I've done for my installation.

Below is the list of items I used:

• VIOFO 4K Dual Dash Cam A129 Pro Duo 3840 * 2160P Ultra HD 4K
• SanDisk HIGH ENDURANCE 256 GB microSDXC Memory Card, Class 10, U3, V30
• 2x Mini Blade Piggy Back Fuse Taps
• VIOFO HK3 3-Wire Hardwire Cable ACC Detection 4 Meters for Parking Mode for A129 / A119 V3 Dash Cam

The first step was to identify suitable fuses for hard wiring the camera, I used a multi meter to test all of the "mini blade" type fuses whilst the car was "off" and also when powered on (start button + brake pushed). The 4 fuses highlighted with the yellow box are only live when the car is turned on (wipers 10A, accessory socket 15A, one set of electric windows 25A and one unknown 15A).

There is a fuse key on the back of the plastic cover inside the glove box (many of the blank ones are fitted but are not meant to be changed by the owner).

They are also explained further in the handbook.

I decided to use the 15A multimedia system fuse for the permanent supply to the camera and the 15A accessory socket fuse for the switched supply to activate and deactivate parking mode. Another factor in the choice was that the piggyback fuse taps only fit in certain positions due to the other components in the fusebox (blue relays, larger blade fuses).

The next step is to remove the side panel next to the glove box, this is held in by a few plastic clips and is fairly easy to remove. The dash cam came with a plastic lever which works well without causing any damage to the interior.

Once you've pried it open, you can get your hand in there and pull it the rest of the way, it doesn't matter if the rubber door seal comes with it as well, they are only push fit and will need to be removed shortly anyway.

I would highly recommend removing the glove box to provide much easier access, this simply requires removing 4 torx T20 screws (star shaped). There are 2 inside the glove box at the top.

There are 2 more on the side behind the panel that was just removed, see the yellow circles below (the hard wire kit is in place in this photo but we'll come back to that later).

With the 4 screws removed, a slight tug should allow you to remove the glove box. There will be a cable connected to the top for the light, you can unclip it if you want but I decided to leave it as I was able to rest the glove box on the floor without it putting too much strain on it.

Additional steps follow in the next post below.

 

[rbrt]

The next step is to mount the front camera to the windscreen (or wherever you choose). I have chosen a position that does not block the driver's view or cause a distraction rather than providing the best field of view. It's difficult in the ZE50 because there is quite a big portion of the screen taken up in the middle by the lane departure / sign detection camera and other sensors used by the vehicle.

Route the two cables (USB Mini B) for the power to the front camera and link to the rear camera under the roof lining, there is plenty of room. A plastic tool can help route them behind the pillar.

At this point you should remove the rubber door seal from the front passenger side, remove it down to the fusebox on the left and over to the pillar between the door on the right. Once you pulled the rubber seal away a little it should come off really easily, it is only push fit.

You should be able to route the two cables into the gap behind the seal now from the roof lining at the top of the windscreen. Once you have them both through, route the power cable down to the fusebox on the left and the rear camera cable to the pillar on the right, tucking them under the roof lining. There are a few plastic "clips" that it it useful to tuck the cable behind as it stops it falling back out, just pull down the trim slightly and tuck the cable behind.

Now you can install the hard wire kit connections. First attach the ground wire, it just needs to be connected to any metal point on the vehicle's bodywork. Most kits have a "fork" terminal designed to be pushed behind a bolt or screw, I have installed it behind the screw at the top, make sure it is tight and in contact with the screw head. Next, attach the piggyback fuse taps to the red positive and yellow ACC wires (if using). These often come with crimps where you insert the wire and squash it with a crimping tool, a pair of pliers may be sufficient. Tuck the power supply unit from the hard wire kit into the void at the top.

Next, remove the fuses you identified earlier and insert them into the bottom position in the piggyback fuse taps. Insert a suitable fuse for your dash cam into the top position. Insert the piggyback fuse holder into the original fuse positions.

Next, route the rear camera wire along the top of the door frame behind the rubber seal.Once you get to the pillar, open the back door and remove the rubber seal, you should be able to poke the cable behind the plastic trim and reach it in the back.

Continue along the roof, tucking the cable up again.

Next, open the boot and remove the rubber seal. You should be able to do the same as you did with the door pillar between the front and back, feed the cable behind the plastic trim, avoiding the seat belt and other holes.

The next bit is tricky and you may decide to do something else. I chose to route the cable through the existing rubber hose into the boot lid and then up and out through one of the holes with caps on. The most difficult bit was fitting the USB cable through the rubber hose because it kept catching on the ribs, it was just a case of snaking it along bit by bit.

I decided to mount the camera on the boot lid because it doesn't obstruct the drivers view and is invisible from the outside but still gives a good picture. See the video samples in the post below.

 

[rbrt]

Some short sample clips, the lighting isn't great and I've tweaked the exposure and HDR setting to improve it since.

Front Camera:

Rear Camera:

Parking Timelapse (rear):

 

[MrMoonUK]

Super guide! We have the same colour zoe, when mine arrives on weds

 

[Eclectic]

That's a good job, and excellent "how to" instructions!

As an ex-auto electrician, I very much approve of your cable routing through the hatchback grommets, well worth the extra effort!

 

[Sandy]

Very similar to the guide Tom did for the MG. Very good.

My personal preference though isn't to route the rear feed through the top of the car, its a bit too close to side airbags for my liking. I prefer to go low, just as easily accessible, although technically a longer route to the rear camera. Which has its advantages as there is then less wiring to hide somewhere else. But its swings and roundabouts which way you go.

Can I ask why you picked the more expensive 4k/1080p setup? I went for the 1080p x 2 setup, partly out of cost and storage considerations and also because it was starvis front and rear which really makes a difference in nighttime driving/recording.

I have to say Viofo wasn't on my radar at all, I was always going to get a Blackvue setup, but really glad I checked out Viofo, for the price the spec is brilliant and the build quality seems really good too.

 

[MrMoonUK]

Just wired in my Garmin 66 in the front, this guide was great!

I’ve installed mine top left as the massive box for the Tech behind the rear view mirror is huge and was blocking the view.

although pulling out the glove box on a car which was delivered at 830am today and had 12 miles on the clock was a little weird lol

 

[Dorset Steve]

@rbrt Thanks for this I had already fitted a dash cam to my ZE40, but having a good look through your photo's meant I had already fitted one to the ZE50 in my mind before I got the car . It made fitting it much easier.

Just one point I would make for anyone else doing this; the higher of the two 'side attached' T20 screws (shown circled yellow in the 8th photo) is difficult to undo with a standard driver as the door gets in the way, and you risk rounding off the head using the driver at an angle. If you have a 'stubby' driver - use this. I didn't but, luckily, I had a bendy attachment that meant I could get it undone.

Unfortunately I think someone had removed the side panel before me - there were some blue scuff marks on iots edges, possibly from a plastic trim tool. Once I had carefully removed it, I noticed that the highest mounting 'notch' was split... the plastic is VERY thin and there is no metal re-inforcement. I can't imagine my (excellent) dealer would have had cause to get in there, so maybe the panel was mis-fitted then re-attached at the factory? Once re-assembled everything seemed stable enough so I'm going to leave it alone for now. I may go in and melt or glue it together if there are any rattles.

As @MrMoonUK said, it feels very odd to start pulling apart a car with (in my case 11 miles) on it apart, but the end result is well worth it! Thanks again.

 

[RionCrane]

Hello, can you please tell us about having the dashcam permanently connected to the 12V battery?
did you have any issues about it?
thanks a lot!

 

[MrMoonUK]

Hello, can you please tell us about having the dashcam permanently connected to the 12V battery?
did you have any issues about it?
thanks a lot!

Nope, mine has parking mode and it’s fine

 

[proddick]

Thanks. I fitted a hard wired one to my ZE40 and assumed it was going to be almost identical in the ZE50, which it appears to be. Good to confirm and need to get around to it soon. Mine only needs permanent power as switches to parking mode automatically, so will go with the Multimedia fuse.