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Some people have asked about installing dash cams in the ZE50 and hard wiring them in so I'll share what I've done for my installation.
Below is the list of items I used:
The first step was to identify suitable fuses for hard wiring the camera, I used a multi meter to test all of the "mini blade" type fuses whilst the car was "off" and also when powered on (start button + brake pushed). The 4 fuses highlighted with the yellow box are only live when the car is turned on (wipers 10A, accessory socket 15A, one set of electric windows 25A and one unknown 15A).
There is a fuse key on the back of the plastic cover inside the glove box (many of the blank ones are fitted but are not meant to be changed by the owner).
They are also explained further in the handbook.
I decided to use the 15A multimedia system fuse for the permanent supply to the camera and the 15A accessory socket fuse for the switched supply to activate and deactivate parking mode. Another factor in the choice was that the piggyback fuse taps only fit in certain positions due to the other components in the fusebox (blue relays, larger blade fuses).
The next step is to remove the side panel next to the glove box, this is held in by a few plastic clips and is fairly easy to remove. The dash cam came with a plastic lever which works well without causing any damage to the interior.
Once you've pried it open, you can get your hand in there and pull it the rest of the way, it doesn't matter if the rubber door seal comes with it as well, they are only push fit and will need to be removed shortly anyway.
I would highly recommend removing the glove box to provide much easier access, this simply requires removing 4 torx T20 screws (star shaped). There are 2 inside the glove box at the top.
There are 2 more on the side behind the panel that was just removed, see the yellow circles below (the hard wire kit is in place in this photo but we'll come back to that later).
With the 4 screws removed, a slight tug should allow you to remove the glove box. There will be a cable connected to the top for the light, you can unclip it if you want but I decided to leave it as I was able to rest the glove box on the floor without it putting too much strain on it.
Additional steps follow in the next post below.
Below is the list of items I used:
- VIOFO 4K Dual Dash Cam A129 Pro Duo 3840 * 2160P Ultra HD 4K
- SanDisk HIGH ENDURANCE 256 GB microSDXC Memory Card, Class 10, U3, V30
- 2x Mini Blade Piggy Back Fuse Taps
- VIOFO HK3 3-Wire Hardwire Cable ACC Detection 4 Meters for Parking Mode for A129 / A119 V3 Dash Cam
The first step was to identify suitable fuses for hard wiring the camera, I used a multi meter to test all of the "mini blade" type fuses whilst the car was "off" and also when powered on (start button + brake pushed). The 4 fuses highlighted with the yellow box are only live when the car is turned on (wipers 10A, accessory socket 15A, one set of electric windows 25A and one unknown 15A).
There is a fuse key on the back of the plastic cover inside the glove box (many of the blank ones are fitted but are not meant to be changed by the owner).
They are also explained further in the handbook.
I decided to use the 15A multimedia system fuse for the permanent supply to the camera and the 15A accessory socket fuse for the switched supply to activate and deactivate parking mode. Another factor in the choice was that the piggyback fuse taps only fit in certain positions due to the other components in the fusebox (blue relays, larger blade fuses).
The next step is to remove the side panel next to the glove box, this is held in by a few plastic clips and is fairly easy to remove. The dash cam came with a plastic lever which works well without causing any damage to the interior.
Once you've pried it open, you can get your hand in there and pull it the rest of the way, it doesn't matter if the rubber door seal comes with it as well, they are only push fit and will need to be removed shortly anyway.
I would highly recommend removing the glove box to provide much easier access, this simply requires removing 4 torx T20 screws (star shaped). There are 2 inside the glove box at the top.
There are 2 more on the side behind the panel that was just removed, see the yellow circles below (the hard wire kit is in place in this photo but we'll come back to that later).
With the 4 screws removed, a slight tug should allow you to remove the glove box. There will be a cable connected to the top for the light, you can unclip it if you want but I decided to leave it as I was able to rest the glove box on the floor without it putting too much strain on it.
Additional steps follow in the next post below.