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That explains the weird LKA as well then.

What’s wrong with Bosch / Mobileye?
I suspect they were using a Bosch radar, maybe even MobileEye hardware. But they still have to integrate it, as I understand.

I’ll ask my contact when I meet him for a beer in Prague this summer.:cool:
 

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Interesting stuff, please do. My understanding is that integrating these is what’s delaying the ID3 too..?
 

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The "Auto relock" setting is not explained anywhere in any manual so no clue as to what that entails.
Walk up to the car, car unlocks. If "auto relock" is enabled, do not open any door and you walk away from the car, such as to the charge port, the car will re-lock the doors. If "auto relock" is disabled, do not open any door and you walk away from the car, it will not lock the doors. If "auto relock" is disabled, but you open any door and then close it, the car will lock the doors once the key-card is outside the detection area.


Automatic wiping won't come on immediately when stationary and it's 0oC or less.. it comes on at 5mph.
By design, to not damage the wipers. If you want to damage them, you'll have to initiate wiping by yourself, so that you don't blame Renault for it.



The lane guidance is a little sensitive.. it doesn't just work when you're on the line but when it feels you're a bit too close to the line.
You can change the setting to Early, Normal, Late detection. I think by default is set to Early, I don't remember.


I agree about Lane Keep Assist; it does seem to apply the opposite input to that required. If you get a bit too close to the right hand line, it steers quite firmly to the right, driver has to take control more firmly to the left and the LKA drops out. Anyone got theirs to steer back into the lane?
The algorithm, in my opinion, works identical with how my driving teacher was providing me with help.
  • left lane crossing danger detected
  • apply force to steer to the right until safe
  • apply force to steer back to the left until car is parallel to the lane
  • end program
If in a curve, the system will continue to try become parallel to the lane, but because the lane is not straight, it will just keep on trying. The system will not apply sufficient force to turn the steering wheel more than 10 degrees (I think this is its limit, but cannot confirm it); if such force is required, the car will tell you to take over (sounds, vibration).

The system only activates at 70km/h and deactivates once the speed is below 65km/h.

If at any point the driver turns the steering wheel by more than 10 degrees, I believe - again, not very sure about the actual angle -, the system is disengaged. After 3 LKA activations within a short time (I think it's 30 seconds) without any driver input on the steering wheel, the car assumes you are not in control and will tell you to take hold of the steering wheel plus vibration. I didn't go as far to see what happens if the driver doesn't respond for 2-3 minutes, far too risky for me, but I think the car will not slow down, nor will it turn on hazard lights.

If the steering wheel has pressure applied to it so that it is at an angle degrees (again, not entirely sure, I think it's 10 degrees), the LKA is deactivated, it assumes that the driver, by applying pressure to the steering wheel, is under control. Yes, in a curve, the system is deactivated.

One very important thing that I believe many people misunderstand. LKA does fully what it is designed to do: it assists you in keeping the car within the lane markings. It does not provide you with lane centering, nor lane following, nor does it take the responsibility of keeping the car in the lane from you; you are still responsible.

If it triggers falsely, as mine did when the sun was reflected from the road at odd angles during the day, the light sensor/camera system needs re-calibration; it fixed the LKA and also the high-beam triggering at odd times during the night. Since the recalibration, I genuinely love the auto high-beam, it fires properly.
 

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Balls, it’s broken.

It doesn’t function like normal lane departure systems in every other car - a nudge back in if you get close to the line.

At best it feels more like a half-assed attempt at LFA, at worst it actively pulls you towards and over the line.

I was literally wrestling it back into the lane at times as it tried to drag me towards a truck.

The fact it has a “keep hands on wheel” warning suggests it was initially intended as LFA but not actually certified as such (because it’s crap).

Like someone else said, the NCAP tests will be interesting.
 
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had an R240, got an R90, might get a ZE50
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I was hoping that the CCS and lane keeping would make my almost regular 400 mile journey up to the Highlands much easier, seems like the lane system is not a reason to trade up to a ZE50.
Is it possible to display the charge rate on the dashboard display as most BEVs do ? as there's no chance of CanZe working on ZE50, this being really useful to optimise my charging times on long journeys.
 

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The Ioniq has CCS and a 64kWh option, doesn’t it? The ACC and lane following on it is decent enough too, just watch those edge cases.
 

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had an R240, got an R90, might get a ZE50
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That's confirmation that CanZe is in the long grass for ZE50, so can ZE50 display the maximum charging rate and battery temperature ?
The good thing (amongst many) of CanZe is it possible to know the maximum charge rate en route so helping chargepoint choice.
 

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I just discovered that Zoe gives a scary "warning electrical fault" (or something like that) message when you try to start it up... and... you've stupidly forgotten to close the charging flap.
I'm sure Renault could have chosen a more specific and less worrying message!
 

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I just discovered that Zoe gives a scary "warning electrical fault" (or something like that) message when you try to start it up... and... you've stupidly forgotten to close the charging flap.
I'm sure Renault could have chosen a more specific and less worrying message!
it just gives a flap open warning for me
 

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I have a new Zoe 50 and am interested in getting more data when charging. At the moment all I seem to get is time left to charge, current battery SOC and current range. Surely there is a way to monitor battery temp and charge rate? Yesterday I did my first 'not-so-rapid' just to check it works. It went from somewhere just below 60% to 80%, at which point I stopped it. The charger, which appeared to be working normally, reported 11.3 kWh delivered in 27 minutes. This implies a charge rate of around 25 kW. My leaf 30 keeps charging at 40+ kW way past 80%. Does the Zoe start limiting charge at a much lower level?
 

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Yeah, but how far were you thinking of driving a Zoe in one go? :)
Well we go to Pembrokeshire fairly often and its 210 miles. Plan was top up once for 40 minutes on the way for lunch and walk the dog so that we could arrive with plenty to pootle around. I know I'm talking 1st world problems here! If I can do it in a Leaf 30 it will be so much better in this. I realise now I have taken the Leafs 40 kW+ rate up to 80% for granted :)

Also, having paid best part of £1000 for rapid charging, it's annoying to find it's actually not much better than 22Kw most of the time
 

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Renault ZOE R135 ZE50 GTLine July 2020 (Sold: R90 ZE40 i Dynamic Nav June 2017)
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Well we go to Pembrokeshire fairly often and its 210 miles. Plan was top up once for 40 minutes on the way for lunch and walk the dog so that we could arrive with plenty to pootle around. I know I'm talking 1st world problems here! If I can do it in a Leaf 30 it will be so much better in this. I realise now I have taken the Leafs 40 kW+ rate up to 80% for granted :)

Also, having paid best part of £1000 for rapid charging, it's annoying to find it's actually not much better than 22Kw most of the time
Have a look at this thread: ZE50 CCS Charge Graph

It contains two different charging charts for the ZE50. The earlier one is fairly positive: 40kW up to 60% SOC. The later one (first chart on the thread) is less so, with 40kW only up to 45%. I'm hoping that the difference is down to the battery temperature when the charging was carried out, and that with a warm battery, at a stop in a long run, I'll get the better one.

It will be good when someone on the forum has results to post. I assume your trial charge was not carried out after a reasonable run?
 

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Have a look at this thread: ZE50 CCS Charge Graph

It contains two different charging charts for the ZE50. The earlier one is fairly positive: 40kW up to 60% SOC. The later one (first chart on the thread) is less so, with 40kW only up to 45%. I'm hoping that the difference is down to the battery temperature when the charging was carried out, and that with a warm battery, at a stop in a long run, I'll get the better one.

It will be good when someone on the forum has results to post. I assume your trial charge was not carried out after a reasonable run?
No, it was just a test before we head off on 'staycation' on Friday. We should have an hour on the motorway at 70 before charging so Ill be interested to see what rate I get.

This is why I'd like a screen showing charging rate and battery temperature. Instead, I'll have to stand by the charger and note down the rate against SOC
 

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No, it was just a test before we head off on 'staycation' on Friday. We should have an hour on the motorway at 70 before charging so Ill be interested to see what rate I get.

This is why I'd like a screen showing charging rate and battery temperature. Instead, I'll have to stand by the charger and note down the rate against SOC
My wife and I recently did a trip from Bournemouth to Dundee and back in her ZE50 and saw varying different charging rates.

For example, one charge at a Polar point gave us 24.40kWh in 33 minutes (17% to 64%). That works out at an average charge rate of 44.3kWh. However, the charge before that stop, again at a Polar point, gave us 28.6kWh in 49 minutes (an average charge rate of 35kWh)...... but that was from 32% to 90%.
 
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