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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know what the maximum power output is of the rear USB sockets on the Zoe ZE50?

I want to plug dash cams into them* but I was thinking about using a USB splitter so I only have to use one port. I know that the max power that can be supplied by such a port on a computer is 2.5W (0.5mA at 5v). Is it the same in the Zoe? Doesn't say ANYTHING in the manual about it (I've looked thoroughly!) and I'm rather unwilling to just do a test and plug both cameras into one port!

I'm not sure what the power rating of the dash cam is - a single camera works fine plugged in to one of the ports so I assume it's less than 2.5W.

*I'm aware that it's possible to hardware cameras - this is not an option for me, neither is a cigarette lighter splitter.
 

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Renault Zoe ZE50 GT-Line Rapid Charge
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0.5A is the USB 1.0 & USB 2.0 spec
USB 3.0 increased it to 0.9A (4.5W)

Plugging a dashcam directly into a car USB socket usually means that the infotainment system will claim it as a music drive, instead of allowing the camera to work.
You might have to source a "power only" USB lead or adaptor for the camera.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
0.5A is the USB 1.0 & USB 2.0 spec
USB 3.0 increased it to 0.9A (4.5W)

Plugging a dashcam directly into a car USB socket usually means that the infotainment system will claim it as a music drive, instead of allowing the camera to work.
You might have to source a "power only" USB lead or adaptor for the camera.
The rear sockets are power only though, I've checked. The two at the front of the car are power and data.

They don't look like USB3 sockets. USB3 normally has blue connectors, these are white.
 

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Rather than using the USBs why not wire the whole thing together properly? If your not able then pay an Autosparkie to do the job, its probably a 1 hour max job.
 
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Rather than using the USBs why not wire the whole thing together properly? If your not able then pay an Autosparkie to do the job, its probably a 1 hour max job.
The problem with hiring an auto electrician is that most will run away when told they'd be working on an EV.
 

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Zoe Devotee
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The problem with hiring an auto electrician is that most will run away when told they'd be working on an EV.
If an Autosparkie is scared of a 12v setup then he's not worth his salt. Find a better autosparkie. Halfords don't have Autosparkies, they just have staff with very basic training.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Rather than using the USBs why not wire the whole thing together properly? If your not able then pay an Autosparkie to do the job, its probably a 1 hour max job.
I knew someone would make that suggestion!

I did say in my original post that hardwiring is not an option for me.
 

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Zoe Devotee
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I knew someone would make that suggestion!

I did say in my original post that hardwiring is not an option for me.
Can I ask why its not an option?
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OK, I did a bit of sleuthing (they don't call me Holmes for nothing!) and I've figured it out.

I bought a USB voltmeter/ammeter thingy on Amazon for a few quid, it arrived this evening. I plugged ONE camera into it and plugged it into one of the rear USB ports on the Zoe. The voltmeter said the voltage was 5.18v and the ammeter said the camera was drawing 0.33A (give or take 0.02A).

All that told me was that the cameras are LESS than 0.5A, didn't tell me how much power the USB port can reasonably provide. THEN I unplugged the camera and plugged in my phone. The Ammeter said the phone was drawing 0.83A(give or take 0.02A), which suggests to me that the port is rated at MORE than 0.5A. I'd been doing some reading online and apparently some of these dedicated charging ports in cars are rated at up to 1A. Filled with hope, I THEN plugged the two cameras into a USB splitter, which I plugged into the USB voltmeter. The current draw was about 0.83A (again, give or take 0.02A). Both cameras powered on and seemed to start recording. So it looks like I CAN run them both off a single USB port. Now all I need is the long cables.....
 
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