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Getting the Guess-o-Meter right is clearly not easy. Some are considerably better than others. For example the Kia/Hyundai GoM doesn't reset to the default range on a full charge and therefore avoids the terrifying plummet when you start driving. The Zoe isn't as good, but still is much better than the Stelantis cars, which all seem to be problematic in their approach.

It's easy to work out what your actual range is yourself based on knowing the usable battery capacity and the average miles/kWh you achieve.

There's a lot about how you drive. 60 on a B road with regen makes it sound like fairly spirited driving - like any car you'll chew through the available energy fairly quickly. Note that regen isn't magic. It's much better than friction brakes but losses are inevitable. For maximum range you want to drive efficiently which means preserving momentum as much as possible... which means not going too fast so you don't use any form of braking

If you need to cover 150+ miles with spirited driving, you need to plan to charge or get a different car... or chill out and drive a bit smarter. or wait for summer ;)
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Okay there's misunderstanding - I don't trust it. I'm saying I should be able to. I didn't believe there were 60 something miles left out of a possible 186 to do a 43 mile journey as it had taken 120 of those to get there! So with only 60 odd left it gave me no confidence to get back home based on the fact it had taken 120 to get there.

I don't know why I'm debating this to be honest. I've asked for anyone who has experienced this also - not an argument about my logic or the fact that the software is not fit for purpose - which again is unacceptable on a product like this.
I think people are only trying to help, especially those with 5 years on here not 5 minutes

Shame you hadnt read up on similar issues before you committed to the car, there are loads on here with similar issues

Best reject it with the dealer 👍
 
Does seem a little odd tbh. We have the same car and my normal commute is 69.2 miles. It's a fast A road and I'm doing the odd overtake of an HGV etc. I run "B" mode for extra regen, "normal" drive mode, heated seat on max and climate at 22. Car is always about 50% charge when I get home. I'd suggest going to a Vauxhall dealer and see if they can check it out.
 
Can't think why people with EV's put so much focus on the GOM. For years we looked at how much was in the fuel tank and worked it out. That gauge didn't have a percentage figure attached to it either.

How much charge did you use on your journey to cause you so much worry? Unless it was about or below half then I don't get the panic.

The GOM is pants on the Corsa but it's predictably pants. Just look at the "battery gauge" and do what you've probably done for years. The range predictor on standard fuel cars will change throughout a tanks worth depending on how you drive and what kind of journey you do.
 
IMO too many seem to think regen is a magic way of getting extra miles.
Better not to have to brake at all but when you (inevitably) do, the system should use regen to recover energy whatever the regen setting. On motorways for example better to have zero regen because why start slowing down needlessly if theres no one in front of you or they are a very long way away, when you take your foot off the accelerator, cruise to slow down, and if you need to brake you can do it with the brake, and regen will apply then anyway.
In cities with constant start stop its handy but on fast A roads, motorways, i dont see why a high regen setting would be better than using the brake less, because you will inevitably be slowing down unnecessarily at some points.
 
Hi Folks,

I'm wondering if anyone else is having similar issues. I have a nav elite leased through my business. Initially it seemed like a great little car with plenty of equipment on and fun to drive. However, I have noticed the range is so bad that it's caused me to have some problems.

Recently I did what was a 43 mile trip each way, mainly on A roads that have a 60 mph limit. I drove it all the time in regen mode and on ECO. I drove it near to 60 mph on twisty country roads and used the regen as much as possible. It was a freezing cold day so I had the heater on, also the heated seat on its lowest setting and the heated steering wheel.

When I set off from home my range said I had 186 miles so I was thinking I would easily do to the 86 mile round trip even if the range was not accurate. To my surprise it took 120 miles of range to do the 43 mile journey! I was going to meet friends mountain biking so I pretty much spent the majority of that ride wondering where I was going to go to get a rapid charge. Not enjoyable.

To cut the story a bit short, after an utter faff driving around for 30 minutes I did manage to find a CCS charger and get back up to nearly full charge. It took 100 miles of range to do the trip back home of 43 miles.

I am seriously doing what I can to send this car back. It is totally unfit for purpose and seems to me is a complete an utter lie that it will do circa the displayed range, even with some contingency for inaccuracy. I have to take it to Vauxhall first to see if there is a fault. I may have to keep it till May next year when the lease expires and I for one can't wait to get rid of it. Anyone else had similar issues?
We have an e208 which is the same car, different body. First thing to say is ignore the predicted miles as they have no idea what you are about to do. You need to know what % charge you have ie how much fuel in the tank! So either look at the fuel gauge and guess roughly or use the app which will tell you the % charge. At those speeds on a very cold day you will just about get 120 miles from 100% to 0% maybe less if there is a head wind or wet road - regardless of what the car tells you. In summer you can easily get 170-180 miles. So embarking on an 86 mile trip at those speeds I would want a full or nearly full battery and a pre warmed-up car. This makes the absolute most of the range as cold batteries simply don't give as many miles as warm ones. Simple chemistry. Range will return near normal in the warmer months.
 
I’ve owned 3 Corsa E and had a long term loan of a 4th, so I’ve had probably more experience than most.
So, please or offend (I really don’t care what you think of my post), the car IS a load of Tosh.
If you don't care what people think of your posts then why bother?

I was trying to encourage you to explain the reasons behind your opinion. I'm pretty difficult to offend tbh.

I've had one Corsa and have access to a fleet of E208's at work. I consider the car to be an extremely competent small car. Its not perfect and there are compromises, like with any car. I would say the biggest issue with the car is that it does suffer more in cold weather than others with regards efficiency/range.

In my opinion it's far from tosh.
 
I’ve owned 3 Corsa E and had a long term loan of a 4th, so I’ve had probably more experience than most.
So, please or offend (I really don’t care what you think of my post), the car IS a load of Tosh.
Well, it can’t be that bad otherwise you wouldn’t keep getting it! 🤷🏽
 
I suspect the OP just needs a bit of 'upskilling' on EV driving

Considering its a mountain bike trip, maybe the trip to get to the trail (which, a lot of the time, are up high in the hills, mountains) then you use a disproportionate amount of your journey going uphill, which is hard on the battery. But, on the return journey, you get the benefit of using less energy. That could be part of the reason it was so bad on the way there. It might take 60% to get there and 40% to get back for example, which is a 20% variance. Key point being, the GOM doesn't know you are going downhill on the way home, it assumes the return is all uphill too, which turns your 20% variance into a 40% variance on the GOM. 40% is a big number!

Plus using seat heating on lowest setting is counter intuitive. Better to have any conductive type of heating on full (seat, steering wheel) as both those use very little energy. But the OP has tried to save tiny bit of energy by seat heating on low which presumably, meant that to keep warm, he used more of the worst type of energy, the aircon/heater unit. Back to front way of using an EV.

You see this frequently for new EV drivers and its not their fault. Dealers don't talk about these inconvenient truths which is long term detrimental.

Its all about the science - gravity, friction, heat transfer etc and once you figure out the things that help with range, and the things that don't, then you start to understand how to get more range.

The OP used regen as much as possible. Thats not a good thing either. Regen is only good when your using it to replace braking, but regen by its very nature is lossy. Eg, in a hilly area, going up and down quite often for example, speeding up to go fast up hill and then thinking you'll get that energy back on the way back down is wrong. You are best just maintaining your speed, maybe let a few MPH off as you reach the brow of the hill, then let gravity accelerate the car a little on the way back down, rather than using regen (speed limit may require regen if its steep though!)

If that sounds like hard work, then just maintain a steady speed and don't 'try' to generate regen. Regen is great when you are recharging the battery instead of using the brakes, but if you don't need to slow the car down, the regen should be avoided as much as reasonably possible. Some people simply don't realise this.
 
I suspect the OP just needs a bit of 'upskilling' on EV driving

Considering its a mountain bike trip, maybe the trip to get to the trail (which, a lot of the time, are up high in the hills, mountains) then you use a disproportionate amount of your journey going uphill, which is hard on the battery. But, on the return journey, you get the benefit of using less energy. That could be part of the reason it was so bad on the way there. It might take 60% to get there and 40% to get back for example, which is a 20% variance. Key point being, the GOM doesn't know you are going downhill on the way home, it assumes the return is all uphill too, which turns your 20% variance into a 40% variance on the GOM. 40% is a big number!

Plus using seat heating on lowest setting is counter intuitive. Better to have any conductive type of heating on full (seat, steering wheel) as both those use very little energy. But the OP has tried to save tiny bit of energy by seat heating on low which presumably, meant that to keep warm, he used more of the worst type of energy, the aircon/heater unit. Back to front way of using an EV.

You see this frequently for new EV drivers and its not their fault. Dealers don't talk about these inconvenient truths which is long term detrimental.

Its all about the science - gravity, friction, heat transfer etc and once you figure out the things that help with range, and the things that don't, then you start to understand how to get more range.

The OP used regen as much as possible. Thats not a good thing either. Regen is only good when your using it to replace braking, but regen by its very nature is lossy. Eg, in a hilly area, going up and down quite often for example, speeding up to go fast up hill and then thinking you'll get that energy back on the way back down is wrong. You are best just maintaining your speed, maybe let a few MPH off as you reach the brow of the hill, then let gravity accelerate the car a little on the way back down, rather than using regen (speed limit may require regen if its steep though!)

If that sounds like hard work, then just maintain a steady speed and don't 'try' to generate regen. Regen is great when you are recharging the battery instead of using the brakes, but if you don't need to slow the car down, the regen should be avoided as much as reasonably possible. Some people simply don't realise this.
Sounds fair enough.

That being said, if he had 113 miles range as Peugeot said he would with that sort of use, did 43 miles, he'd have 113-43 = 70 miles remaining. He's reporting the car said 66 miles.

So, the thing the car didn't actually do was predict how he would drive the car, and at what temperature, before he actually drove it.

I would tend slightly towards the possibility that the car can't predict the future very well. Hey, it's just one of those crazy conclusions I come to, OK, sure, we don't buy cars NOT to predict the future for us, right? We just need cars that can.
 
I’ve owned 3 Corsa E and had a long term loan of a 4th, so I’ve had probably more experience than most.
So, please or offend (I really don’t care what you think of my post), the car IS a load of Tosh.
You've probably mentioned more times that you'd like but what are the issues in summary.

I'm guessing from the signature it creaks 🤣

And more importantly after the 1st, if it was crap why continue to having had 4? 😅
 
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