Hi all, my e-208 has suddenly got quite a few errors coming up and I wondered if anyone had ever seen anything like this before or could help me diagnose what could potentially be going on?
Hi there; did you end up solving this problem? My car has been doing the same since this weekend, and I'm wondering what your solution ended up being.Hi all, my e-208 has suddenly got quite a few errors coming up and I wondered if anyone had ever seen anything like this before or could help me diagnose what could potentially be going on?
The car is a 2021, the 12V battery has not been replaced. It currently reads 12.16V on my multimeter, which I didn't think was too low. I tried disconnecting the 12V battery for 15 minutes and then reconnecting it, but the same errors are shown immediately upon turning the car on. It's not clear to me if those would reset on their own, or if there's some way that one would have to tell the car to reset them.There are 2 different issues which are linked to overwhelming error messages popping up from a number of stellantis vehicles.
The straightforward starting point is to test and possibly replace the 12v battery.
If it can be charged then it might help if only in the short term.
What age is your car, has the 12v been replaced?
Gaz
It has done that to me once a few weeks back; the voltage on the battery currently reads 12.16V if I connect up my multimeter. It's not clear to me if once all these errors are thrown they'd be expected to reset themselves, or if it would require some sort of service command to reset them and see if they come back.Another clue to a weak battery is that "Emergency Energy mode" will activate after a few minutes, if the car's infotainment system is turned on when the car is no longer turned on in "ready" mode. This kicks in when the voltage falls to 12.1v or below.
I don't have the equipment to charge it, but I could get it. Do you know if the battery being charged/replaced would cause the errors to clear? Or do I have to hook it up to an OBD-II reader or something in order to attempt to clear it?Low enough to cause problems.
Can you charge it?
Gaz
Ok, that's a good sign it could fix the issue then, thank you. I will attempt to charge/replace it; do you know if charging/replacing it would cause the errors to clear? Or does it have to be hooked up to a scanner to have those reset?12.1v is low as far as these EV's are concerned. Needs to be at least 12.6v
I tried that: leaving disconnected for 15 minutes, reconnecting then waiting a couple hours (took me a bit to get back to it) but it still threw all the same errors immediately upon the next start unfortunately. But if that should clear the errors, then I can try putting some charge into the 12V battery and try again, and see if the errors clear.Leaving the battery disconnected for about 10 minutes, then waiting for about 20 minutes after reconnecting it should clear the errors. They supply a handy quick release for the positive terminal, as they know the software is flaky, and just like a Windows 95 machine will sometimes need to rebooted by power cycling.
Thanks. Yes I figure I might end up having to replace the battery if charging it fixes things; it won't hurt to have a battery charger around though so I may as well try that first, especially since the battery in this car looks awkward to remove: it's not immediately clear to me how to get the cage off the top of it, but I'm sure it'll become obvious if I look at it long enough.If the errors relate to just the 12v battery and in fairness someone selling a car on is likely to charge it than replace it, you might buy a bit of time.
The problems could stay away for a few months with the battery slowly losing charge.
If you don't already have a battery charger and think along the lines of buying something pretty decent with desulfation options then you might prefer to spend a similar amount on a new battery.
It's possible if you bought it from a dealer that they might assist you.
It may also be worth calling the recovery folk, RAC have been known to swap a battery out but you'll need to avoid being charged a small fortune for one if they want to bill you.
Doesn’t hurt to ask.
Gaz
Well, unfortunately a battery swap did nothing. It's at 12.6V on a new battery and still throwing every possible error. Guess I'm waiting for the dealer appointment.Thanks. Yes I figure I might end up having to replace the battery if charging it fixes things; it won't hurt to have a battery charger around though so I may as well try that first, especially since the battery in this car looks awkward to remove: it's not immediately clear to me how to get the cage off the top of it, but I'm sure it'll become obvious if I look at it long enough.
Yeah I figure it couldn't hurt to replace it: what was in there looked to be a generic no-name brand; maybe it would've been fine but now I don't need to worry about it.Could be the ABS wiring loom is damaged. ( look back to my earlier post #6 ). Dealer might be able to repair it, but if it does need replacing, I would argue for a decent discount, because this is a known issue on E2008s & E208s. They were badly routed, hence prone to damage.
I still think that replacing your 12v battery was still a smart decision, because it sounded like it was nearing the end of its useful life anyway.
just to confirm for future readers: it was the rear wiring loom as suggested. after repair everything is normal again.Yeah I figure it couldn't hurt to replace it: what was in there looked to be a generic no-name brand; maybe it would've been fine but now I don't need to worry about it.
I haven't been able to view the wiring loom; I can't see it well enough without jacking the car up, but I'm going to try and get a better look. Unfortunately the dealer appointment is a ways out, so I'm sort of stuck for the time being unless I can convince them to fit me in.