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Ok, found out why the headlights are pants...

30K views 66 replies 29 participants last post by  Geoff P  
#1 ·
Opened up the NS headlight and guess what I found?

A single Phillips HIR2 /2012 bulb. Oh but that's a low beam 55w bulb right? So where's the high beam bulb?...... There isn't one, just a single low beam bulb.

So, how does high beam work without a bulb? Those who don't want to be on a downer quit reading now.

The headlight is angled up, sort of where a high beam should be but there is a what looks like a gate blocking just less than half the light. Select high beam and the gate moves and you get all the light. If you use a white wall and park about 1m away then you can see for yourself. I did take some pics of the inner working of the lamp but the 'choose file' is greyed out.

So low beam is like driving on high beams, with a low beam bulb and tape over the top half of the headlight. I need a box of doughnuts right now.
 
#4 ·
taylorgx said:
To be fair to GM projector headlamps is supposed to be a recent technology improvment over twin headlamp setups

http://www.ehow.com/facts_7669822_do-pr ... -work.html
Ok, So a single low beam bulb with something obscuring half its light output is *better* than an unobscured low beam bulb and an additional high beam bulb? Makes no sense. My Lexus had projector headlights too, but all the light from the low beam went on the road, and it had high beam bulbs too. The Prius was the same. In fact, I can't think of any other car that only has low beam, anyone else?

As for the 9012, its recent'ish, but its no where near the output of HID and takes more power (55W vs 35W). It sounds suspiciously like cost saving to me, but what do I know.... only that my lights are crap.
 
#5 ·
Seems the technology is called BiHalogen Projector. It would have been nice if they had gone with BiXenon but the additional cost of the leveling and washing would have increased the cost and I guess the weight.

I am OK with the lights which are better than my Lexus IS220d - they were shocking and made me wish I had gone for higher spec model!
 
#9 ·
I tried HID bulb set up in my Corsa and was not impressed, not sure if it was the bulb rating but they were recommended on a forum so thought I would give them a go. I have just bought some Osram NightBreaker Unlimited to try. The only thing I find with buying these 'stronger' bulbs is their lifespan. The place I bought them from give a 12 month guarantee so I better get them fitted quickly.
 
#10 ·
Remember everyone... fitting HID bulbs without a self-leveling kit approved for the purpose is illegal and if your lights are a factor in an accident you could be in a lot of trouble as your insurance might not be valid.

Just a thought...

I would love better lights on the Ampera and teh Leaf... partuclarly the Leaf. OK on dipped as they are LED but the mains are really crappy.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I bought them from Powerbulbs.com, standard H11 fitting. ÂŁ32.49 a pair and a free pair of W5W bulbs (these might do the number plate not sure yet.
I should maybe mention that on the back of the pack it has:-
Up to 110% more light, Up to 35m more distance, Up to 20% whiter light but lifespan seems to be just over half of the standard type bulb.
They do come with a 12 month warranty so hopefully will be covered if they blow within that time.
 
#13 ·
Looks interesting.
Please lets us know the following after you have fitted them.
Did the Harness multi-plug just plug in without any problems?
Were the tabs in the correct place to lock the bulbs in place into the headlamp?
How much better are the headlights?

If this is successful I shall buy myself some for Christmas.
The only thing I do not like about the Ampera is the headlights!!
 
#16 ·
I should mention that Chevrolet had my car in for two months recently trying to correct an issue I had. In the end they didn't do anything, but they did mention they had checked the car for modifications including possible replacement headlights.

So go right ahead if you want to upgrade the headlights, but I think if you have any warranty problems you'd better put them back before letting Chevrolet look at the car.
 
#19 ·
Okay a bit of a fail, had a look at offside headlamp, need to remove cover from air filter to gain access so tried nearside first.
Bulb out and went to put new one in, wrong type, similar but different. It seems as though it is not the H11 as I first thought but could be HB3 or HB4 (had to call Powerbulbs to check and these were their suggestions as they look very similar). I will need to tackle the nearside one again to check exactly what markings are on it before I ask for replacements.
 
#21 ·
From all the searching to find out the bulb 'type' I have found that the standard Philips HIR9012LL gets a fairly good write-up. Granted that some of the reviews relate to a year or so ago but they still come out as a lot of user's preferred choice to the extent that some users are even buying them and adapting the bulb base to fit older/inferior fitments. If I get any further with the normal bulb reference I will post here.
 
#22 ·
Opened up the NS headlight and guess what I found?

A single Phillips HIR2 /2012 bulb. Oh but that's a low beam 55w bulb right? So where's the high beam bulb?...... There isn't one, just a single low beam bulb.

So, how does high beam work without a bulb? Those who don't want to be on a downer quit reading now.

The headlight is angled up, sort of where a high beam should be but there is a what looks like a gate blocking just less than half the light. Select high beam and the gate moves and you get all the light. If you use a white wall and park about 1m away then you can see for yourself. I did take some pics waf the inner working of the lamp but the 'choose file' is greyed out.

So low beam is like driving on high beams, with a low beam bulb and tape over the top half of the headlight. I need a box of doughnuts right now.
I think the reason for the mechanical moving shutter controlling the beam dipping is that anything other than halogen bulbs need warm up time, so a conventially dipping lamp which switches on the main beams would leave you literally in the dark for a few seconds whilst they warmed up.

I have fitted HID lamps to all of my cars for some time now: my Trooper has regular H4 twin filament bulbs which are replaced with an HID bulb with an electro-magnetically moving lamp tube so the same bulb does dip and main and are always hot; an Astra MklV convertible which my wife had had projectors for dip and reflector lamps for mains which was OK-ish because the dips stayed on and covered the delay of the main beams starting up; and my Aston has the electro-magnetically dipping bulbs in the projectors and regular non-dipping bulbs in the supplementary driving lamps which come on with the main beams, but it takes a few seconds which doesn't matter because the main beams in the headlamps are always hot and move instantaneously.

The Ampera, instead of moving the bulb, moves a little shutter which does a similar job.

In any event, now I have HID'd my Ampera it is no longer scary to drive at night!
 
#28 ·
I think the reason for the mechanical moving shutter controlling the beam dipping is that anything other than halogen bulbs need warm up time, so a conventially dipping lamp which switches on the main beams would leave you literally in the dark for a few seconds whilst they warmed up.
FWIW I would think that LED (or LASER) headlights would be even better than halogen at turning off and on quickly - they use them for fibre optics comms for that reason.
 
#24 ·
Guys,
I too have fitted "Osram Night Breaker Unlimiter HB4 Headlight Bulbs (Twin Pack)" from amazon. They are far, far better than the originals. On paper these are a different fitting to HIR2 9012s, but all you need do is clip a tiny bit off one of the 3 plastic lugs. See the Customer Reviews where I've posted tech info about light-output compared to originals, plus a piccy of what to trim. It's obvious when you put them side-by-side.

The other thing I've done is make a tiny fresnel-lens beam-director which redirects an un-used bit of light-beam so it illuminates the verge nicely. So at last I can see the grass at the side of the road when on country lane with oncoming cars! If anyone's interested, I can supply details, but it's your choice to do this! IMHO it makes the car safer at night.
 
#47 ·
Cheers Andy. Saw your review on Amazon.co.uk and ordered and modded the ONB-U HB4 twin pack for ÂŁ23 free delivery on prime. Fitted them this afternoon a nd a quick test in the drive by the wife confirms they are much brighter. A real world test in the dark soon will confirm how much better. Hopefully she wont winge anymore and I wont have to look at the HID mods.

M
 
#27 ·
... cannot understand why ... no rear wash-wipe....
Re the wash-wipe, I suspect they were trying as hard as poss to get the drag coeficient as low as they could - in the way thet nerdy engineers will! (I'm onemyself...). They also don't allow you to attach a tow-bar - a shame as I have a smal trailer for taking cuttings to the tip - very green, no? - and they don't allow a roof-box (here in UK that might have lost sales if this had been a high-selling car). I've applied Rainex & that works a treat for me - when it's wet, I get a surface with the rain in tiny dots & I can see clearly through rather like those beaded-curtains in continental cafe-doors to keep flies out. But I do find that the sun can shine on the rear window when it's dry, and there's enough dust in the rainex film to scatter light & make it hard to see out of the back. So it's back to the rear-view mirrors!
 
#29 · (Edited)
Yes, Jim, I agree with you certainly concerning LED lamps which have a very satisfying snap-on and snap-off kind of performance. I'm well into my LEDs, having 130-odd throughout the house and every incandescent bulb that I can replace on my older vehicles and trailers etc has been replaced with an LED.

The up-spec bulbs I think we're talking about here (well, I know I am! LOL) are HID, or High Intensity Discharge Xenon, run at a few squillion volts - and definitely have a warm-up cycle. The way they come on is a little odd in that you get a very bright flash of a millisecond or so, followed by a gradual increase from maybe half strength to a tarmac-melting full strength! In truth, it's possibly only a full second or two, but whatever it is is too long to be flying on instruments!!

Although they are bright I must say that there seems to be much less stray scatter compared with incandescents. Maybe because the source is a smaller spot with less escape, but the cut-off is much sharper.

I have no problems with oncoming traffic being dazzled, incidentally, but I do drive with the levelling switched down a notch as a courtesy, really, and only put them right up when I'm on B roads and the like.