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Outlander GX4Hs - 65 plate - Heating

3K views 7 replies 6 participants last post by  donald  
#1 ·
Does anyone else find it extremely frustrating that the outlander needs to have the engine running at 10C or below?
My daily commute is only between 13-15 miles so it really frustrates me that the outlander decides to have the engine running when I need to demist the windows. I must point out that I barely use the heater to warm up the cabin (the heated seats do a much better and quicker job I think), but use it purely to demist the windows.
I'm sure even with the heater running full blast I should be able to get by my daily commute on battery alone.

Are there any hidden switches that I don't know off? I understand that some later models have an EV only mode. It annoys me a bit when you want to not use any fuel but the car decides otherwise :(
 
#2 ·
Yes. No workaround that I know of. Especially annoying here in Scotland where it's <10°C two thirds of the year. Only thing I've managed is to keep the air temp at 15°C. Takes longer to clear and freezes your face off though, and plenty of moaning from the kids in the back. Pre-heat also makes a huge difference, but with 2 EVs and 1 plug it's not always an option. I gave up on the app years ago as the car is parked well out of WiFi range.
 
#3 ·
I know, not sure why they have that annoying cut-off at 10°C.
I didn't understand your point about keeping the air temp at 15°C, but I did try it this morning. I normally maintain it at 21°C and the engine kicks in. But when I dropped it to 15°C it appeared that the engine didn't start although it was just 1°C outside. So I'm not sure why keeping it at 15°C solves the problem. I'm not complaining though :)
Also, I think 15°C is the minimum? I couldn't seem to drop it below that. Luckily for me, there is a spot in the kitchen where I can hook on to the wi-fi signal and pre-heat the car. I must say that is by far the best feature, having the car completely cleared off any frost/ice and getting into a warm toasty car while others are scraping away, does make you feel a tad smug ;-)
 
#4 ·
For the purposes of heating, 15°C is 'off'. Anything from 15.5°C or above is 'on'. The ICE will start to provide heating if the internal temperature requested is more than about 7 or 8°C higher than the external temperature. The only way to prevent this is to pre-heat, although with judicious use of the controls (I've written about it on here ages ago...) you can gradually increase the internal temp without starting the ICE, but it is a real faff....
 
#5 ·
Thanks, so if I run the "heater" at 15°C, it should do it from battery alone? irrespective of the temperature difference? If that is the case it will do me just fine as I only ever use the heater to demist. Unless of course the wife and kids (a.k.a mileage killers) are in the car.
The heated seats and pre-heating works pretty well for me :) Glad I learnt about the 15°C rule which will prevent the ICE from starting up :)
 
#6 ·
Try to find the temperature sensor and put on a temporary heat insulation.
So the car won't think that it is so cold that ICE need to be started.
The temperature sensor usually sits at the end of a wire.
You can try to extend the wire and replace the sensor to a warmer place for example near the heated seat.
Or try to apply heat to the sensor somehow. Not to sure how, it is depend where it is.
Be creative. For example, if you can replace the sensor near to a cup holder you can place a cup of hot coffee/water there.
 
#8 ·
Many early GM Volt owners in the US have effectively killed the ERDTT (engine running due to temperature) by fitting a dummy resistor in place of the external temperature sensor. Pre MY13 the engine always ran below -4C, which was clearly too warm for some owners..... :confused:

Anyhow, if you are fixed on the idea, then maybe it is as simple as on the GM Volt .. just figure out a dummy external temperature solution that the car thinks it's always warmer than 10C?