[freddym]

Any further progress with this @freddym ? Is the car still off the road?

Have you seen this revised TSB for troubleshooting this code released in the US?

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/SB-10058387-6169.pdf

I found it linked here:

Not able to drive. P1A15 error.

I am driving imiev MY201, US model. During the autumn strange things started to happen. I could drive it but after slow charging at home (220V, 16A, or even 6A), I started to get yellow car error symbol and error code P1A15 (high voltage circuit). After clearing the error code and charging the...

myimiev.com

I noticed that in some of the amendments to the original troubleshooting process (in red boxes) they are suggesting exactly what I was - disconnecting certain items like the PTC heater and clearing / retesting the fault codes while that device is isolated...

Have a look through that updated procedure and see if there is anything you haven't tried yet.

The on board charger failures (like mine had) were bad enough, looks like this P1A15 issue is becoming more and more common and may be overtaking OBC failures. Kinda glad I got out when I did to be honest...

Hi Simon, yes making some progress. It's not the condenser voltage measurements seen in some earlier cars. Followed some of your recommendations too😁. See PM.

 

[G.a.r.y]

Hi Simon, yes making some progress. It's not the condenser voltage measurements seen in some earlier cars. Followed some of your recommendations too😁. See PM.

How is it going?

If you want further diagnostics assistance, OVS Hybrid in Kent and Hevra garages via the Hevra support are very knowledgeable with the triplets.

Cheers

 

[olovo]

Apologies for not getting back with an update for ages. Finally got my inverter board back from the electronics place who had advised there was nothing wrong with it that they could find but said that there might be something that is not working in circuit.

So, in a bit of desperation, I soldered in a 2MOhm resistor as per the attached photo. Pleased to say that upon clearing the codes with hobdrive, the car now goes into Ready! Very chuffed!

Big thanks to everyone that contributed their experience and knowledge (particularly Eddie).

View attachment 140297

Hi, I have similar problems with a C-zero, can you repost the picture of the added resistor?
Best regards /Olov

 

[G.a.r.y]

Hi, I have similar problems with a C-zero, can you repost the picture of the added resistor?
Best regards /Olov

Have you ruled out the more common issues? Its not really a good idea to start with resistors as it could be an ac or heater issue and not ruling those out and forcing the car to start with an issue with one of those could be pretty dangerious.

Cheers

 

[olovo]

Have you ruled out the more common issues? Its not really a good idea to start with resistors as it could be an ac or heater issue and not ruling those out and forcing the car to start with an issue with one of those could be pretty dangerious.

Cheers

We have tried to disconnect the other devices on the HV bus.
Do you know were the charge time is monitored ? in what unit?

/Olov

 

[Finnlanders]

Hey!
I have the same type of problem.
Peugeot Ion 2011.
Doesn't go ready.
Been to a local Peugeot service center to replace the vacuum pump for 3 months with a P1A15 fault code detected.
Is there a permanent code that needs to be deleted?
AC, and heater disconnected, also 25 A fuse removed.
The power when turning the key does not hear the sound of the contactors, completely silent.
Connecting the charging cable causes a clear noise from the contactors, the traction battery is fully charged.
A large battery connected in parallel with a 12 V battery where the voltage remains constant at approx. 13.2V.
What steps next.
Thanks for all the answers!
Google Translate.

 

[Eddie49]

We have tried to disconnect the other devices on the HV bus.
Do you know were the charge time is monitored ? in what unit?

/Olov

The time for the 800uF capacitor in the motor inverter to charge to the required voltage will be monitored by software running in the microprocessor of the EV-ECU. However, in most instances of this fault, it's not the time that is too long, it is the apparent voltage measured by the "hybrid board" in the inverter that is too low.

 

[freddym]

The time for the 800uF capacitor in the motor inverter to charge to the required voltage will be monitored by software running in the microprocessor of the EV-ECU. However, in most instances of this fault, it's not the time that is too long, it is the apparent voltage measured by the "hybrid board" in the inverter that is too low.

Agree that the EV-ECU or whatever alternate name PSA used is the master controller and communicates with the MCU ( aka inverter) wrt voltage rise.
I found, via scope readings, that the charging time cut out after 20msecs so not a voltage measurement problem at all. I would suggest careful and repeated measurements as this fault code has numerous causes which cannot be linked back to a single issue😀

 

[Finnlanders]

Hei!
Tänään onnistuin tyhjentämään P1A15-virhekoodin, ja tapahtui ihme: Peugeot heräsi lepotilasta ja siirtyi valmiustilaan.
Kaikki toimi täysin normaalisti, 12 V: n akku latautui myös (14,2 V), olin palauttanut 20 A: n sulakkeen, mutta AC ja lämmitin ovat edelleen irti, en välttämättä tarvitse ilmastointia, koska Suomen kesä on lyhyt, mutta lunta on vähän.
Pystyin ajamaan autoa, mutta en uskaltanut mennä pidempään koeajoon yöllä.
Kun käänsin avaimen pois päältä -asentoon ja yritin käynnistää uudelleen, kojetaulun tarkkailuvalo syttyi ja sama vikakoodi.
Mitä pitäisi tehdä nyt?
Mitä ei pidä tehdä ettei tule suurempia vahinkoja.
Voinko jatkaa auton käyttöä ja tyhjentää vikakoodit aina, kun haluan ajaa, kuinka kauan voin tehdä niin?
Autoni vuotuinen tarkastus on ensi kuussa.
Olen melkein onnellinen.
Peugeot Ion 2011
ajettu 58600 km
minä 6,5 vuotta.
Kiitos!

 

[Eddie49]

Translation:
Hello!
Today I managed to clear the P1A15 error code, and a miracle happened: the Peugeot woke up from sleep mode and went into standby mode. Everything worked perfectly normally, the 12 V battery was also charged (14.2 V).
I had reconnected the 20 A fuse, but the AC and heater are still disconnected, I may not need air conditioning because the Finnish summer is short.
I was able to drive the car, but I did not dare go for a longer test drive at night.
When I turned the key to the off position and tried to restart, the indicator light on the instrument panel came on and the same fault code appeared again.
What should be done now?
What not to do to cause greater damage?
Can I continue to use the car and clear the DTCs whenever I want to drive, how long can I do so?
My car’s annual inspection is next month. I am almost happy.
2011 Peugeot iOn, 58,600 km, owned for 6.5 years.
Thank you!

In my opinion the P1A15 codes are false ( invalid ) errors. If the code is cleared and the next pre-charge sequence completes without flagging an error, then the car can be driven safely and no damage will be caused. However, it is likely that the errors will become persistent, and so you may get stuck on a journey.

 

[Henri47]

Apologies for not getting back with an update for ages. Finally got my inverter board back from the electronics place who had advised there was nothing wrong with it that they could find but said that there might be something that is not working in circuit.

So, in a bit of desperation, I soldered in a 2MOhm resistor as per the attached photo. Pleased to say that upon clearing the codes with hobdrive, the car now goes into Ready! Very chuffed!

Big thanks to everyone that contributed their experience and knowledge (particularly Eddie).

View attachment 140297

Hello ! Very interesting ! But very sadly your picture cannot be seen anymore, the link does not work, were did you install this resistor ? What finally was the problem ?

 

[Eddie49]

Not sure how many members are still suffering with the P1A15 error. I have two cars and two spare inverters all showing this fault. There have recently been some promising developments on the myimiev forum, with the ISA215 hybrid op-amp isolation voltage comparator board in the MCU being replaced by an Analog Devices AD202KN equivalent:

[ The P1A15 Troubleshooting Thread ] No READY. P1A15 error. Condenser charge timeout.

INDEX to this thread. [ @kiev Edit, moved Lic's original fault history to post #5] [Edit, june 22, 2023 after going thru entire thread] This is a P1A15 INDEX Post with links to help find pictures and info quickly. This problem is usually caused by a defective hybrid board in the MCU that...

myimiev.com

 

[G.a.r.y]

Not sure how many members are still suffering with the P1A15 error. I have two cars and two spare inverters all showing this fault. There have recently been some promising developments on the myimiev forum, with the ISA215 hybrid op-amp isolation voltage comparator board in the MCU being replaced by an Analog Devices AD202KN equivalent:

[ The P1A15 Troubleshooting Thread ] No READY. P1A15 error. Condenser charge timeout.

INDEX to this thread. [ @kiev Edit, moved Lic's original fault history to post #5] [Edit, june 22, 2023 after going thru entire thread] This is a P1A15 INDEX Post with links to help find pictures and info quickly. This problem is usually caused by a defective hybrid board in the MCU that...

myimiev.com

Here is another car with P1A15 - precharge timeout. I'll probably sell it as it is as ive just finished an ion (dc-dc repair) and got an ampera and Zoe40 project on the go...

 

[vanthi]

Hello.

After a very long struggle, I managed to make a working ISA215-HYB module. The module that checks the voltage level on the high-voltage line was designed entirely on analog elements. In order for the module to work properly, it must be calibrated in the inverter. If there is anyone interested in such a module, please contact me.

Regards.

 

[G.a.r.y]

Hi guys.

I was working on another P1A15 car and swapped the hybrid board with a new chip - the blue one from China, bad news it didnt work... There is a drain on the circuit board somewhere, it is pulling down the voltage reading so the car reads capacitory voltage as lower than it actually is.

So I guess P1A15 is not always caused by the hybrid board...

Cheers.

 

[fd71]

Hi all

I'm Daan (Dutch, but living in Scotland, Dundee)
I've been enjoying driving the C-Zero ( a nice red one, which I stupidly sold) and now a
2011 Ion (it has ~90K miles on the clock so you can imagine the battery life) for the past 7 years.

This weekend, after a charge, the dreaded yellow light has come on. The light comes on both when trying to start the car (and it won't go in ready mode, gear shifts are fine, no problem with 12v battery, it's at 12.5-13.2 V) and also when trying to charge. The usual click-click of relays doesn't work. I haven't read/cleared codes, and while I'm a bit of a DIY-er/car fixer myself I think this might be beyond me.

From my reading what seems different (or isn't clearly mentioned) is that the yellow light also comes on when trying to (AC) charge, or does that always happen with P1A15 situations?

I've read the forum and there seem to be several of you local to Scotland.
At the moment it's stuck in a university car park. Is there any chance any you would be willing to come and give me a hand (at least read the code)? Happy to pay for your time/travel costs/treat you to a nice curry.

My family is quite attached to this (second) car and my youngest daughter is on it as a L driver so it would be great if we could revive it.
I'm also holding onto it just in case someone comes up with an awesome battery pack replacement in the longer term which would change it (back into) a very useful car.

Thanks in advance for any help/advice

best wishes

Daan

 

[G.a.r.y]

Hi all

I'm Daan (Dutch, but living in Scotland, Dundee)
I've been enjoying driving the C-Zero ( a nice red one, which I stupidly sold) and now a
2011 Ion (it has ~90K miles on the clock so you can imagine the battery life) for the past 7 years.

This weekend, after a charge, the dreaded yellow light has come on. The light comes on both when trying to start the car (and it won't go in ready mode, gear shifts are fine, no problem with 12v battery, it's at 12.5-13.2 V) and also when trying to charge. The usual click-click of relays doesn't work. I haven't read/cleared codes, and while I'm a bit of a DIY-er/car fixer myself I think this might be beyond me.

From my reading what seems different (or isn't clearly mentioned) is that the yellow light also comes on when trying to (AC) charge, or does that always happen with P1A15 situations?

I've read the forum and there seem to be several of you local to Scotland.
At the moment it's stuck in a university car park. Is there any chance any you would be willing to come and give me a hand (at least read the code)? Happy to pay for your time/travel costs/treat you to a nice curry.

My family is quite attached to this (second) car and my youngest daughter is on it as a L driver so it would be great if we could revive it.
I'm also holding onto it just in case someone comes up with an awesome battery pack replacement in the longer term which would change it (back into) a very useful car.

Thanks in advance for any help/advice

best wishes

Daan

Hi,

Sorry to hear you are suffering with P1A15 as well ! You can sometimes clear the code and get the car running but often it just fails again when you try to restart so its not a guarantee - might at least get the car home tho.

There is currently a battery replacement option in Australia but tbh the cost just doesnt make it worthwhile - you could buy a different EV for the value of the car and cost of the replacement battery ! At the end of the day they are still very basic cars with power hungry heaters.

What is the general condition of the car? How is it underneath with rust, particularly round the back? I've bought mievs from Scotland before and got them working, one was from a college car park in Edinburgh a few years ago ! Currently fixing a miev and an ion

Cheers.

 

[Dalathegreat]

I managed to fix a P1A15 code on a C-Zero this weekend, added 2Mohm of resistors to the voltage measurement card:

 

[G.a.r.y]

I managed to fix a P1A15 code on a C-Zero this weekend, added 2Mohm of resistors to the voltage measurement card:

Terrible idea, its forcing the check to go through when there may be a major issue. Encouraging people to bodge their cars that could have other issues. What if the heater or AC is failing and thats pulling down the precharge voltage instead? May also be unreliable as you are increasing the voltage reading by a fixed amount and I've seen cars damaged by people attempting this repair when this wasn't the fault the car had - just because they watch someone do it on youtube and have a go, and you then have to fix a car with the original fault and damage on the MCU board. This board has high voltage on it and could kill someone !

There is a proper fix for this issue which is to replace the hybrid board with a new isolation amplifier chip which sits on a new custom printed circuit board. This fix is available through Hevra garages in the UK.

Don't get me wrong Dala, you do some great stuff but this one is a terrible idea, encourages people to bodge their cars when there could be a more serious issue and they could kill themselves in the process...

 

[evgarage]

Hello.

After a very long struggle, I managed to make a working ISA215-HYB module. The module that checks the voltage level on the high-voltage line was designed entirely on analog elements. In order for the module to work properly, it must be calibrated in the inverter. If there is anyone interested in such a module, please contact me.

Regards.

View attachment 151158

View attachment 151159

Hello.

After a very long struggle, I managed to make a working ISA215-HYB module. The module that checks the voltage level on the high-voltage line was designed entirely on analog elements. In order for the module to work properly, it must be calibrated in the inverter. If there is anyone interested in such a module, please contact me.

Regards.

View attachment 151158

View attachment 151159

Hi, I'm interested in the ISA215-HYB module for a 2011 Citroen C-Zero. Can you still supply this module and is it suitable for this model C-Zero?

Regards,