Are your keys left near the car
Ie in the house within proximity

Get a Faraday bag and put keys in there when not in use

 

This is a problem with your 12V battery. Get a decent 12V charger and leave it on overnight.

Super-common problem on all BEVs.

 

I had a somewhat similar experience last week with my e2008. I got out and left it unlocked. I think I switched off the “ignition” but can’t remember. After lots of opening and closing of doors to get things out of it I tried to drive away 30mins later. The map screen was lit up but not the main dashboard. Tried several 12V disconnects and reconnects to no avail. Tried with key next to start button. Was about to do a jump start, in case the 12V was low, when I decided to try the 2nd key. Worked perfectly and have had no trouble since. Checked the 12V voltage and seems fine.

No idea what all that was about . Maybe the somewhat unconventional shut down and door opening sequence?

 

Sounds like the 12V battery is low. Assuming the DC/DC convertor is working properly it could be that your 12V battery is starting to fail if it's not holding a charge properly.

 

Well, I had the same issue just this week!

The car was closed properly. We could not open the car with either of the two fobs. As @jules_2998 used the mechanical key to open the door. The door was now opened / unlocked, but we still could not open the boot lid. I had to power up the car for that. We drove a bit with it, a planned errand, when we got back to the parked car, the same behavior repeated. It lasted for two days, then it went back to "normal" behavior.

I am hearing the 12 Volt battery pointing loud and clear. If the 12 Volt battery has an issue, I would expect the 12 Volt battery warning light to go on. I don't remember seeing it on. But I must admit I was not specifically looking for it either. I would like to believe if it was on I would have seen it.

One thing I do remember was out of the ordinary is the HV battery SoC was below 20% for a longer time. It has been rainy and overcast for most of that week and there was no sun to charge the car. Now, I'm not suggesting that has definitely something to do with it, but I do make a list of things out of the ordinary as a first shot at troubleshooting.

Another thing I noticed is the seat heating control circuits possibly leaking power. Even though heating was turned off, the seat seemed to be warming up slightly. My wife says it is my body heat, but I'm not convinced. That may drain the 12 volt battery too.

Lastly - I hope that is not it - we live within 100m of a park / nature reserve and our neighbors already had car cables eaten by Stone Martens. I have not checked yet, that may be another thing to look for.

If I find anything, I will report it here. Since the problem is not manifesting itself now, it is going to be difficult to do any troubleshooting as long as it does not. I've got extensive experience finding the causes of issues, I was also good at it in my professional career. Causes of issues others did not find I often found out about and with a pretty high hit rate. But I'm not guaranteed to, there have been problems I did not find the cause for. Often because of lack of knowledge or understanding on my part, learning never stops.

 

When the fob won't open the door it's always worth trying to open the boot using the boot button on the hatch to see if that works then try the door you want again. The keyless/remote system in the Stellantis cars is weird and several Corsa owners had it do the same thing even with the fob buttons. It just seems to get itself stupid somehow.

There have been updates to the Corsas so maybe Peugeot will do an update to solve it?

 

When the fob won't open the door it's always worth trying to open the boot using the boot button on the hatch to see if that works then try the door you want again.

I could not open the boot, even after opening the door with the mechanical key.

 

I could not open the boot, even after opening the door with the mechanical key.

If you managed to start the car did the boot open then or was it still uncooperative?

 

As explained in my previous post: open door mechanically > boot would not open. Start the car > boot opens.

 

This may or may not have something to do with it. I was asked for OTA update with app so doors can be opened/closed from app. Just yesterday. I performed the update.

Maybe something got updated in the car to make this possible and messed up the lock status?

 

I replaced the batteries in our keyfobs and the problem is gone. It seems very stupid to not have thought of this. I replaced them only six months ago. On both fobs. It seems they only last six months.

That is why I didn't think of replacing them at first, I'm used to keyfob batteries lasting many years. And both keyfobs had new batteries, both exhibited the same problem. The more recent cars have so much going on in the keyfobs it is hurting battery life. The keyfobs of the Mercedes also only last one year. The maintenance shop always replaces them for the yearly shop visit.

We have the option turned on that the car opens / closes with proximity of the keyfob. That is probably what is eating through a battery that quickly.

 

We have the option turned on that the car opens / closes with proximity of the keyfob. That is probably what is eating through a battery that quickly.

Or you have cheap coin cell batteries maybe?. Mine lasted two years since I bought the car and I only replaced it very recently. I also have the proximity lock and unlock feature and I never press the physical buttons on the fob. I also only use the one fob regularly.

Maybe your local environment has some sort of interference that is waking the key up more often if it thinks it's near the car?

 

@Cptn_penguin thanks for your good info.

I stopped using the LIDL multiblister ones, these really are cr**. So I now buy Panasonic using Amazon. Coin cells in regular shops have silly pricing here in Belgium.

Your next remark is probably valid too. We tend to keep the keyfob in our pocket and every time we need to pass the driveway with our dogs or for another reason we go by the car and it opens / closes every time... many times a day. So I stopped having the keys in my pocket for a few months now. Which is quite frustrating if I count how many times I want to take the car and forgot to get the keyfob...

 

We tend to keep the keyfob in our pocket and every time we need to pass the driveway with our dogs or for another reason we go by the car and it opens / closes every time... many times a day. So I stopped having the keys in my pocket for a few months now. Which is quite frustrating if I count how many times I want to take the car and forgot to get the keyfob...

I turned this feature off as was so fed up with its constant unlocking and locking as I walked by.

 

I think a better system is the one our Ioniq has. It detects the key when it gets close and turns on the lighting around the locks. Then the physical button on the handles either side (not the temperamental, one side only touch switch that the e2008 has) can be used. So you do not need to use the key's buttons and, as you have to pull the handle to open the door, the extra time to press the door button is minuscule.

Would be nice to have buttons on the rear pax doors too, but would not be used much.

 

As for today I'm experiencing the exact problem your having

 

So, my keys stopped working the central locking and at first was using the manual key, then read a thread were pressing the boot opener would unlock the car, once unlocked the keys and proximity would work for a few minutes then stop again and would have to use the boot opener again, got it booked in with the dealer and after 3 days all they did was a software reset which cured it initially but only lasted 5 weeks, back to the same problem again anybody had a permanent solution for this?

 

So far mine is replacing the batteries in the keyfobs.

 

Check your 12 volt battery voltage, first thing in the morning. Should be in the region of 12.3 to 12.5v. if less the remote locking loses the plot. Happened to me, battery voltage was 11.8. Trickle charged it for 15 hrs to bring it up to 13v. Buy one of those digital volt meters that plug into your cig lighter. This way you can monitor the charge rate when the 'start' button is pushed. Mine reads a constant 14.5v. The 12v battery will slowly lose charge if you don't use the car often enough. In winter it powers the traction battery Climate Control system (heat pump) plus if you have the proximity key door opening selected then it has to constantly be looking out for the key. The cig lighter does not have power until the 'start' button is pressed so it cannot read the 12v battery state of charge until your ready to go. But if you watch the reading whilst pressing the start button you will see it shows the initial voltage and then when the system kicks in it will read the charging voltage. Quick and simple way to keep your eye on things. I have had no joy from Peugeot customer service, their answer is to take it to a dealer. There are two Peugeot dealers within 20 miles of my home and after asking for help one didn't even get back to me and one wanted the car overnight. I tried to explain that as it's all working fine since I charged the battery they would not detect a fault. I love the car but come on Peugeot technically dept. Pull your heads out the sand and Get your act together.

 

I love the car but come on Peugeot technically dept. Pull your heads out the sand and Get your act together.

Indeed, it seems UK service stations in general are poor. I know the ones for Peugeot and Hyundai are abysmal based on the comments here. Not so in Belgium. At least my Peugeot shop is quite professional. I do not have a Hyundai, but the people I know that do are very pleased with support.

 

Same issue with our e208 GT Premium. In the morning the keyless entry and fob doesn't work. Once the car has been accessed the keyless entry and fobs start to work again. Then after being left for 10 to 15 mins it stops working again. It's almost like the vehicle needs an initial wake up. Once inside the car it starts and drives as normal. THERE IS A SOLUTION...

Didn't try the physical key because it's quicker and easier to access the car by simply opening and closing the boot! This was the giveaway because pressing the button on the boot was obviously waking up the car. For those of you slamming the boot after reading some comments on some forums... stop it! If the boot wasn't closed properly the car wouldn't lock!

Took our car to the dealer under warranty. After their 'master technician' spent 3 days with our car it was returned with the problem unresolved. We were told we needed to wait for a software update and were told that this could be an unspecified period of time. This didn't make any sense because there hadn't been a problem with the software for 2½ years. The technician went to town doing a diagnostic on the array of antennas and found nothing. Annoyingly they said the brand new batteries that I had litterally just put in the fob the day before weren't at the correct voltage. So, I checked theirs and theirs weren't either. THE FIRST THING TO DO is obviously change the fob batteries! The fob batteries do need changing more frequently with keyless entry systems, but every 6 to 12 months, not every day.

So, I turned to the forums. I found more answers on German forums using translate. Here's what I found and a quick solution which solved our problem: Firstly, change the fob battery. As the fob worked after the car woke up, it suggested it wasn't the fob battery and the fob battery also tested OK. Changed it anyway. The car will tell you if the fob battery is low!

Check whether the fault persisist in different geographical locations because it could be interference from other signals. The car had the same problem while parked on a remote country lane and at the supermarket. So, it wasn't that.

I read that overnight the 12V battery under the bonnet can lose some voltage which may be sufficient to stop the locking system functioning correctly. We had recently been on a week holiday and not driven the car. Also, the car doesn't tend to be driven long distances. Was the 12V battery a little flat? Possibly. However, I didn't charge the 12V battery. That could, however, fix the problem. If the problem occurs again in the immediate future I'll certainly do that.

I've noticed that while sitting in the car without it fully 'started' that sometimes opening the windows is a little slow. This is because they are powered by the 12V battery. Starting the car speeds the windows back up. This is because they are then powered by the main battery pack.

Tips... always turn the car on fully when sitting in the car using power. Try not to continually keep locking and unlocking the car by walking past it with the keys in your pocket, either put them in the car or move them well away from the car. Don't store your keys close to the car in your house. You can charge your 12V battery by driving the vehicle. You don't need a battery charger. You can safely charge your 12V battery from the main battery while the car is locked simply by activating the preconditioning function in the app as this activates the main battery.

What actually solved the problem... I simply opened the bonnet, opened a window on the car (just in case), locked the car, then disconnected the negative terminal from the 12V battery with a 10mm socket. I then disconnected the positive terminal because it is quick release. I left the battery disconnected for around 15 to 20 minutes. I then reconnected positive terminal and then the negative terminal. That was it problem solved! It appears the software had developed a bug of some kind. Simply disconnecting the 12V battery effectively resets the system.

This is a fairly common problem reported on several forums, but after talking to the Peugeot dealer, Peugeot helpline, and Stellantis themselves, it was obvious that they are unaware of it and that there is no software fix. It's a minor problem easily fixed that doesn't occur often.

Nothing to scream about. It's the same fix as for most tech these days. Turn it off and on by disconnecting the power supply.