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I had the same challenge with the weird grommet on the driver's door which must have added almost 30 minutes. It really doesn't feel like something that should come out, but it does.
@HandyAndy!
From what I have been able to ascertain, I believe this "weird grommet" was added as an anti-theft precaution but I cannot see that it achieves any greater security because the grommet is only accessible with the door unlocked and open.
 

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Off topic, but was it the airram mk2 or just a sweeper? I've had to replace the power switch in the airram mk1 which is half way up the handle and although I didn't think it was right type of switch to use it should have lasted for longer than it did. Also I see metal cogs are now available for the mk1, the plastic one was always its Achilles heel along with long hair.
Air Ram 20 (AR20). It is started/stopped by pressing a hinged plastic plate on the sweeper base with your foot which presses directly on to the tiny PCB button switch.
 

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From what I have been able to ascertain, I believe this "weird grommet" was added as an anti-theft precaution but I cannot see that it achieves any greater security because the grommet is only accessible with the door unlocked and open.
Yeah, can't be coincidence that this is on the only door with a physical lock. Seems a little pointless though. Maybe in the States, where things like valet parking (and therefore leaving your keys and car with someone) are more common, this is more relevant.

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Discussion Starter #24
Hmm, mass production will need a tiny circuit board to speed up the assembly, which is slow. Might have to get my son on to that! First batch size was 1 dozen...

Oh, and btw, I'm not interested in making replacement switches for vacuum cleaners! (n)
 

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Hmm, mass production will need a tiny circuit board to speed up the assembly, which is slow. Might have to get my son on to that! First batch size was 1 dozen...

Oh, and btw, I'm not interested in making replacement switches for vacuum cleaners! (n)
Would some copper stripped vero board work as its a fairly simple function?

Think the vacuum cleaner switches are easier to replace than the ampera door handles !
 

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So just a quick update - thanks to @HandyAndy custom crafted switches I have successfully repaired all 4 key-less entry buttons (y)
The rear handles are particularly easy to splice as the internal area is empty (whereas the fronts contain the key-less radio antennae) - so if it's a rear your thinking of doing and Andy is willing to produce some more switches then I'd say go for it! The hardest part of the whole process is without a doubt removing the plastic cover - but Andy's bolt method does make this easier but it's still a struggle. I managed all four though without any real damage so it's well within the realms of possible!

Photo below shoes rear door handle with cover removed (to get to this stage the handle has been released from the door - you can't simply prise off the cover with handle attached).
123084
 

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I've just realised I totally forgot to post the promised notes and pictures from my button replacement experience. Note to self: be less useless, do the post tomorrow

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So. Are you willing/able to ship to the US? I'm in Washington State. I adopted a 2012 Volt a couple weeks ago, and the driver door button is non functional. If I'mma mess about with it, I might as well do all four; I'm no stranger to pulling things apart, in fact I've already pulled the front bumper nearly all the way off to change the front turn signals to LED, and I'm about to install some lovely audio gear too -- kinda glad I don't have the factory Bose system, as the spot for the factory subwoofer is perfect for my own gear.

Anyways. I'd be interested in a set of four plus the tool. I don't know if I'll end up using the splicers. Will have to lay my own two eyes on the situation to decide. I very well may simply cut, solder, and heat shrink. Who knows.

Random question too. Anyone know if the passive entry would work at all if, say, the door handle connector inside the door were reversed/disconnected? Is the antenna truly inside the handle of the front door? I did take off the inside panel and have a look and it was definitely not unplugged. I'm just wondering if I should take the time and effort to do so again, flip it around and see if anything changes. If the antenna is indeed in that front door handle only, then I know it's not flipped because right now what I'm doing is just pressing the button in the rear driver side door on my way up to the car, and it does work.
 

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Random question too. Anyone know if the passive entry would work at all if, say, the door handle connector inside the door were reversed/disconnected? Is the antenna truly inside the handle of the front door? I did take off the inside panel and have a look and it was definitely not unplugged. I'm just wondering if I should take the time and effort to do so again, flip it around and see if anything changes. If the antenna is indeed in that front door handle only, then I know it's not flipped because right now what I'm doing is just pressing the button in the rear driver side door on my way up to the car, and it does work.
Can't see how it would work if handle was disconnected. Compare this photo (front door) with photo above of rear door. You can clearly see the antenna. Never heard of a flipped connector. The OEM button was dissected by HandyAndy and the issue is poor quality contacts internally. The benefit of this repair is you don't need to take the door panel off so it's an easier and less risky job.

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Can't see how it would work if handle was disconnected. Compare this photo (front door) with photo above of rear door. You can clearly see the antenna. Never heard of a flipped connector. The OEM button was dissected by HandyAndy and the issue is poor quality contacts internally. The benefit of this repair is you don't need to take the door panel off so it's an easier and less risky job.
I'm doing an audio system install soon so I'll be having the door panels off anyway. I'll be rolling this repair in with that project. I'd like to solder rather than use the splices, and that'll be easier if I can take off the handles and go up to my work table .

I can't remember where, but I had read on some site that someone fixed theirs by flipping the connector, which they found would go in both ways. Having seen the connector in question, I'm inclined to believe that at the moment, though once I get them out for the repair I'll get a better look.
 

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I have replaced all four door buttons using OEM replacement parts. The lesson I learned from this is that although the door panels and handle components are designed for easy assembly, they are not designed to come apart easily! As a result and despite using considerable care and all the correct tools, I did manage to break off two of the plastic lugs that secure the cables used to link the internal door handles to the door locks. I did manage to effect a bodged repair but these are integral parts of the door trim and a proper permanent repair would mean fitting brand new door trim panels!
Also, even with the door trim removed, it is still extremely difficult to separate the electrical connector - see this link.
The high cost of the door handle kits and the difficulty of access to work on them is the reason why @HandyAndy developed this alternative method.
As for 'flipping' the connections this will not achieve anything - there is a full analysis of the cause of the failure here.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Kittera, flipping the connector sounds dangerous, if that means getting the red & blue wires in GJO's linked pic in prev append, to connect instead to the green & yellow. 2 of the wires are simply the switch that needs replacing, the other 2 are for the radio antenna thing. I'd have said that stands 0.000% chance of success, myself.

If you're taking the door panels off anyway, that may make the soldering easier.
 

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I was mainly curious about that is all. Feline curiosity is a trait of mine. The previous owner of the car did have to have minor bodywork done after a parking lot incident, so I wouldn't have been surprised if they'd managed to get the connector in backward resulting in the button not working. However, since I can use the button on the rear door, same side, and it works, that means the connector probably isn't flipped.

I definitely will be doing this alongside my audio project(of which I can share a few pictures when I'm done, should anyone happen to be interested) especially since the switches will be arriving well after all my gear arrives, the bulk of which gets here tomorrow.
 

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Very interested in a walkthrough of a speaker upgrade. The world needs BASS !!!
I will be taking as many pictures as I can during my process, then I might start a thread with my walkthrough in it. Seems to be a somewhat uncommon subject with Volts/Amperas from what I've seen. I can say for now that it's going to be integration-style since the factory source unit must be kept. I'll leave it at that since this is technically off-topic. You'll know when I've done it though! I'll write down your name and make sure I send you a poke when I have more.
 

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Just fitted the two front buttons using parts from @HandyAndy.
I found that the handle wouldn't come out until I screwed the torq screw back up clockwise which allowed the rear of the handle to work clear.
Also on the drivers side a metal lever was in the way when putting the handle back in but I levered it out with a screwdriver to allow the handle to go behind it. It was the part that pulls the handle back in and didn't have that problem on the passenger side so no idea what was going on.

The bolt/square nut and plate works brilliantly and is an inspired idea Andy. It is a bit worrying screwing the plate down as it gets close to denting the plastic cover but pops apart just in time!

Compared to the hassle GM require to rectify the problem which requires the door card off and a new handle with the cover needing to be painted, its a breeze and only takes half an hour each side.

Despite being a time served sparkie for over 40 years, I managed to pull a wire out of one of Andy's switches when stripping it (used pliers stupidly) but was able to prise it apart and re-solder the wire back in.
It gave me a chance to checkout the amazing workmanship from his 3D printer and especially the 3D drafting required to generate the part.

Well done mate. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #39
... I managed to pull a wire out of one of Andy's switches when stripping it (used pliers stupidly) but was able to prise it apart and re-solder the wire back in.
Yikes! :eek: I wondered when someone might do that! Problem is the wire you yanked out is soldered to an extremely thin wire, (bit of wirewrap-wire actually) which in turn is hand-soldered onto the fiddly surface-mount tabs on the switch; these are on 0.5mm spacing!

The good news is, I now have a supply of tiny custom pcbs which obviate the need for the wirewrap-wire stage, and have a properly strong solder hole in. So the next batch I'm presently making will be even stronger, and no-way will anyone yank the wires out now! :)

I recommend acetone to weld these shut, if any happen to come apart!!!
 

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So the shipping was slower than expected but the switches and tool made it, and here are some pics from my first run through the process. You can see some of my audio project in the background too.

We're back up and running and I am so excited to have all the buttons working! First world problems, I know.

I elected to solder and heatshrink mine, and it worked out great. I didn't put too much into it, I just tinned the wires and soldered them side-by-side, no twisting or hooking. For just a little switch and such tiny wires, it's more than sufficient and testing proves it worked.
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Thank you again HandyAndy for making this possible! You should totally sell these to GM. :p
 
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