Is there an order I need to do things when stopping the car for the handbrake to apply automatically. I could swear blind I have seen it happen once, but no matter what order I do things I have to apply it manually
Please help

I think it will only apply automatically if auto hold is engaged when you switch off the car. I find that useful because I do not need or want the parking brake applied when I park in my garage and would find it difficult if it was applied automatically. However, I think if auto hold is set it will be applied when you switch off.

 

That might explain it. Again, auto-hold, coukd be selected to be 'always on' on my old car. I find it dead useful but keep forgetting to press the button at the beginning of the journey. So the time I noticed the handbrake already applied might have been a time I remembered to select auto hold. I will give it a go tomorrow

Many thanks peterca

Phil

 

Yes, it's the auto hold what does it. But why the frig can't you set it on by default? My start-up checklist is auto hold on, lane keep off and regen 0 (auto on by default), and sometime VESS off, too.

 

Sometimes it comes on automatically, sometimes it doesn’t. I haven’t quite managed to work out what order prevents it.

 

Did some tests. Stop, press P foot off the brake, wait a moment, power off. No EPB. The pause before turning the car off is important, otherwise it will engage the EPB.

Though I’m increasingly of the opinion this is the wrong way round and cars should use the brakes and get rid of the parking pall. Sandy Munro was recently criticising Ford for the Mach-E drive assembly and commented a transmission lock is unnecessary cost, weight and complexity when a line of code that puts the EPB on is much better. Have to agree.

 

It'll be nice if auto hold could be switched on within the settings, rather having to keep switching on on startup, aswell as turing off VESS and regen to 0

 

Auto hold is useful 95% of the time, but not usually when getting into/out of a parking spot.

 

As a new EV driver, I’m curious why you always set regen to 0?

 

I prefer level 0 if I'm going to be using cruise control cos anything else means a jarring brake that is hard to predict time-wise when disabling it. Also it's just fun to coast.

I never use levels 1 or 2. Level 3 for near-one-pedal town driving with lots of speed changes, level 0 otherwise.

 

Isn't the point of the transmission lock to guarantee the car won't move if parked on a steep hill and the friction brake isn't strong enough to hold it reliably? It was introduced on ICE automatics because the "leave it in gear" trick wasn't available.
Of course, old-school manual cable handbrakes often didn't work very well. Is a modern EPB more trustworthy, so we don't need the backup?

 

Living in a hilly area I often have to park on steep hills. I would not be happy with any single system holding a car from running away. I’m sure the idea is to have safety redundancy with 2 completely independent systems always in place, either of which can hold the car. Then should one fail in any way, the other takes the strain. Obviously the effect of a driverless runaway vehicle would be a disaster.

I can’t understand why selecting P (or powering off) doesn’t always engage the EPB (though I know some don’t seem to want this, we have discussed it before) Peter

 

@doningtonphil said:
Ok, so now I am learning. Using the footbrake will initially utilise the regen rather than directly applying pad to disc? Yes absolutely. Unless you’re braking quite hard ALL the foot braking is by regen only. Friction brakes cut in at very low speeds when regen braking is inadequate.

I currently use the paddels to use the regen as a variable brake (as describend by Whitling2k above) assuming that using the foot brake was 'wasting energy'. But effectively the paddles and the foot brake have the same effect, is that right? (Apart from the disc brakes finally being applied if they need to be)
Correct

Is it a healthy procedure to use the regen even to slow form high speeds? (I am thinking exiting a motorway, disengage crusie control at start of slip lane and then use variable regen to come to a stand). Is there a risk yhat a too heavy demand could be placed on the regen? Don't want to be practicing anything that could brake the Niro!!!
It’s perfectly ok. The computers would not allow any harmful overload or similar activity to occur. The battery capacity is huge so can easily absorb the energy and the motor control inverter electronics etc are designed to take anything the driver can possibly throw at it. Just be aware that at extra high speeds, the regen only slowing down force will appear less than when at urban speeds. The maximum regen power is capped to stay within safe operating limits.

Just on the EPB thing, yes, I have found if 'Auto Hold' is engaged, the EPB engages automatically when STOP is pressed. So like most others, it is another button I have added to my start up procedure
I have added a small self adhesive rubber bumpon to my Auto Hold button. I can now locate and operate the button very easily with just tactile feel without taking my eyes off the road. I did the same with the VESS button some time back. I also have the dreaded LKA button wedged in so it’s always off.
Little mods like this make a big difference to my driving satisfaction I find. Peter.

 

That looks a bit high, because it implies that a DC charger could also keep going at that rate to 100% and the car certainly won't let it do that. 10kW or less on Fastned's graph.

 

Interesting point. Two, things, though: 1) regen is seldom more than 20-30kW at most and 2) seldom lasts more than a few seconds at anything like that much. The reduction in charge rate is to prevent overheating. You're not going to cook half a ton of battery with a quick burst, I think.

 

[Replying to myself, and on a tangent]

I actually quite enjoy 'gaming' the efficiency of a car - same with my last ICE. I used to challenge myself to eek the most miles I could out of a tank. I think it's an age thing - getting there quicker got a bit boring - the range was more of a strategic game!!

In this context - when anticipating steep downhills, where safe, I ease off and go into the downhill with a lower speed, giving me a buffer before needing to hit the regen, and saving some energy on the approach.

I'm currently thinking about our next EV - once our lease is up on this one - and I really hate how most the larger affordable EVs on the horizon are SUV shaped inefficient things. It really irks me to spend money on a larger battery, but then losing all the potential range-gains to poor aerodynamics because, for some reason (which I don't' understand), it's what people want!

I can't wait for something like the VW ID Vizzion Space - their 'Electric Passat'. A large, 4.5+mi/kwh EV with an 80KWH battery would be great - but can't see them coming online in the next 3 years when people are throwing money at BEV SUVs.

 

I'm currently thinking about our next EV - once our lease is up on this one - and I really hate how most the larger affordable EVs on the horizon are SUV shaped inefficient things. It really irks me to spend money on a larger battery, but then losing all the potential range-gains to poor aerodynamics ........

I'm the same. I have a classic Ioniq 28 and don't particularly want to change to one of the numerous SUV's that seem to be springing up everywhere. I was encouraged by the latest spy shots of what is thought to be the new Ioniq 6. Slippery shape but with decent range and latest 800v tech inside for mega rapid charging. I might hang on to this car for a while longer to see how this develops.

Pure-electric Hyundai Ioniq 6 saloon spotted ahead of 2022 launch | Auto Express