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Strangely after recording two journeys as mentioned last week it never bothered again until the same day this week its recorded the two journeys i did this morning...no idea as again i dont believe i did anything with the phone to allow the connection etc to record them. The only thing i did with the app this morning was to turn off the climate control as i'd set it to warm up the car ahead of me driving it. Cant say either way if i'd done the same last tuesday but fairly sure i've used the pre-conditioning function since last Tuesday.
Their app/API has a mind of its own. I had the Tronity stuff not update my charges for 5 days, then all of a sudden I got 20 or so updates at once. The app sometimes misses whole days of trips, and eventually catches up (and sometimes, just ignores the trips like they never happended haha)
 
Their app/API has a mind of its own. I had the Tronity stuff not update my charges for 5 days, then all of a sudden I got 20 or so updates at once. The app sometimes misses whole days of trips, and eventually catches up (and sometimes, just ignores the trips like they never happended haha)
Yeh it seems a bit all over the shop. To be honest i dont need the trip recording so not really an issue for me. I use it for the pre-conditioning and to monitor how its charging both of which seem to be ok currently.
 
My trip works faultlessly but my pre-con and charging monitor is no longer showing on the app.
I had that a few days ago. Sorted itself out after a while. God knows what is causing it! (always when you try trying to get connected to turn on pre-heat haha)
 
@b789pilot

Now colder weather has hit I've noticed pre condition cuts out the charge again (remember in the summer it stopped doing so?) I wonder if it's to do with can't do the heat pump at same time but can do the air con
I’ve been checking mine as I charge to 100% most weekdays. It doesn’t actually stop the charge. When I’ve gone out to the car and the precondition is running, the car is actually charging or at least balancing the cells. Sometimes, it is not charging as it is fully charged.

The only thing I noticed is that when I disconnect the charger, the pre’conditioning stops for about 30 seconds and then restarts.

One thing I have noticed, now this is my second winter, is the predicted range takes quite a hit each time. I start after being parked for a while. For example, yesterday, the car was showing 190 miles fully charged. I always reset one of the trip computers so I can always add the miles travelled with the GoM to see predicted range.

After several,trips,throughout the day totalling 36 miles, by the time I parked up for the night, the GoM was showing 94 miles. 94 + 36 = 130 predicted range. I was averaging around 3.5 miles/kWh which should give a rage of 158 miles. Weather was dry but cold (7-8 deg C).

I was driving normally, no speeding. Last year, in the winter I would see better figures and I was a bit surprised to see only a predicted range of ~130 miles of mostly town and a few rural back roads driving. Normally, I could maintain the 190 miles starting predicted range or even increase it.

I‘m just wondering if this is a sign of some battery degradation or just the sudden colder weather taking its toll. Of course, last winter was before the ECU updates and the slightly more erratic behaviour of the GoM in those days.
 
I’ve been checking mine as I charge to 100% most weekdays. It doesn’t actually stop the charge. When I’ve gone out to the car and the precondition is running, the car is actually charging or at least balancing the cells. Sometimes, it is not charging as it is fully charged.

The only thing I noticed is that when I disconnect the charger, the pre’conditioning stops for about 30 seconds and then restarts.

One thing I have noticed, now this is my second winter, is the predicted range takes quite a hit each time. I start after being parked for a while. For example, yesterday, the car was showing 190 miles fully charged. I always reset one of the trip computers so I can always add the miles travelled with the GoM to see predicted range.

After several,trips,throughout the day totalling 36 miles, by the time I parked up for the night, the GoM was showing 94 miles. 94 + 36 = 130 predicted range. I was averaging around 3.5 miles/kWh which should give a rage of 158 miles. Weather was dry but cold (7-8 deg C).

I was driving normally, no speeding. Last year, in the winter I would see better figures and I was a bit surprised to see only a predicted range of ~130 miles of mostly town and a few rural back roads driving. Normally, I could maintain the 190 miles starting predicted range or even increase it.

I‘m just wondering if this is a sign of some battery degradation or just the sudden colder weather taking its toll. Of course, last winter was before the ECU updates and the slightly more erratic behaviour of the GoM in those days.
Past two overnight charges I've done (0130-05:35 with a precondition at 05:35 finish) I've got into my car with exactly 95% battery

Checked my podpoint it put in 24.1kw which was enough to get to 100% (Wednesday was 22.4kw)

The light wasn't green when I got to car was white and then I plugged in and out nothing happened charging wise

Will have to charge without a precondition to check it can get to 100%

Has on granny charges recently at work

Been told 100% charge is a thing now .. the 80% keeping at is a myth .. not sure if true , apparently the balancing makes it no damage

Been also told vauxhall have changed goal posts on servicing .. 8000 miles first service .. 8000 further for the second before it goes to the 16000 2 year gap

Think they released they gonna lose money .. don't think the car needs it
 
The light wasn't green when I got to car was white and then I plugged in and out nothing happened charging wise
Do you use the timer function on your PodPoint? The charging light on the car should be steady green if you're plugged in and it is fully charged. The light will only be off or white if you've set the PodPoint on a timed charge and it is not supplying power.

Unless I'm at a really low SoC, I just plug my PodPoint in and use the car start time setting to start charging at 20:30 for my Go Faster 5 hour period as I know it will be fully charged well within the period. That allows it to automatically top-up or rebalance the cells if it needs to. No big deal if it draws a charge outside the Go Faster period as it is only for a very short period anyway.

This way, I can see if the car is actually drawing power if needed when pre-conditioning.

Been told 100% charge is a thing now .. the 80% keeping at is a myth .. not sure if true , apparently the balancing makes it no damage
With today's battery management technology, it is not an issue charging to 100%. The only caveat is not to leave it at that level for weeks on end. If you use your car daily, as I do, then charging to 100% is not an issue. There are of course, individuals who believe everything they read on the internet and shudder in horror at the thought of charging their car over 80% in the misguided belief that their battery will degrade into dust within a few months and billions of unicorns will perish.

Been also told vauxhall have changed goal posts on servicing .. 8000 miles first service .. 8000 further for the second before it goes to the 16000 2 year gap
It has always been thus. The first "service" is not actually a service but a simple visual inspection that takes 30 minutes. Some dealers may top up your washer fluid but that's all it is, a visual inspection. Far too many gullible (including all the Stellantis brands) owners are being duped into paying more than the 30 minutes labour charge for their "first service".

The second service is a proper service, so in reality, your car is in effect being "serviced" every 2 years/16,000 miles anyway.
 
Do you use the timer function on your PodPoint? The charging light on the car should be steady green if you're plugged in and it is fully charged. The light will only be off or white if you've set the PodPoint on a timed charge and it is not supplying power.

Unless I'm at a really low SoC, I just plug my PodPoint in and use the car start time setting to start charging at 20:30 for my Go Faster 5 hour period as I know it will be fully charged well within the period. That allows it to automatically top-up or rebalance the cells if it needs to. No big deal if it draws a charge outside the Go Faster period as it is only for a very short period anyway.

This way, I can see if the car is actually drawing power if needed when pre-conditioning.


With today's battery management technology, it is not an issue charging to 100%. The only caveat is not to leave it at that level for weeks on end. If you use your car daily, as I do, then charging to 100% is not an issue. There are of course, individuals who believe everything they read on the internet and shudder in horror at the thought of charging their car over 80% in the misguided belief that their battery will degrade into dust within a few months and billions of unicorns will perish.


It has always been thus. The first "service" is not actually a service but a simple visual inspection that takes 30 minutes. Some dealers may top up your washer fluid but that's all it is, a visual inspection. Far too many gullible (including all the Stellantis brands) owners are being duped into paying more than the 30 minutes labour charge for their "first service".

The second service is a proper service, so in reality, your car is in effect being "serviced" every 2 years/16,000 miles anyway.
My go faster is 01:30-06:30 (I hope it stays in Feb ... The renewal I got when the gas came through was awful...) This covers enough charge but also when we get up about 5:30 when not working we can get a second wash in the tumble and the kettle going, girls bottles microwaved so it saves a fair bit of cost

I use the timer function on podpoint it was flashing blue.. then again clocks change this week... Wonder if it's changed
 
If the PodPoint is flashing blue, then it is not in timer mode. It should be a pale yellowish-green when there is a timer set.
It's defo in schedule mode, according to the manual blue is standby mode so when I had car unplugged that would explain it

I also plugged it in at 5pm last night and it didn't charge was on that yellow I believe to indicate schedule waiting

I believe blue is when it's not plugged in and the schedule is on .. if car was plugged would be green
 
Hi all!

Considering getting a Corsa-e, but the winters here tend to get rather cold, -20°C being a very common temperature. One major concern I have right now is charging speed in the cold: how is it affected? I'd be grateful if anyone had some information on this to share. :)
 
Hi all!

Considering getting a Corsa-e, but the winters here tend to get rather cold, -20°C being a very common temperature. One major concern I have right now is charging speed in the cold: how is it affected? I'd be grateful if anyone had some information on this to share. :)
Some testing done here is fairly low temperature: Translated Norwegian test of Corsa-e range in summer and...

Wha type of charging are you talking about? Rapid (50kW or greater) or Fast (3kW - 11kW).
 
Thanks! Should've clarified right off the bat: talking about rapid charging here, so 50 kW and above.
Never charged it in very cold temperatures but I would imagine it isn't too bad if you've been driving and the battery has warmed up. If you're going to try and charge when it's very cold and you've more than 50% charge to begin with, you can always pre-condition the car which will also bring the battery temperature up.

If you don't have a charging option at home and it's very cold, it would be better to charge before you park it and at least have a fully charged car before you set off.

The charging curve on the Corsa-e is very good and will maintain close to 100kW up to 30% and then drops to 75kW until about 55% then 65kW to 65% and 55kW to 82% and 30kW all the way up to about 95%.
 
Space Saver or Type Repair Kit or bottle pump & bottle of stuff you inject into the tyre? What are people using? I have 17" Primacy tyres and Michelin state they can only be repaired by a qualified individual. I can get a good tyre repair kit that can deal with nails etc rather than throw away the tyre after I use the spray bottle on it (assume I've to buy a new tyre each time?). Or is a space saver worth it?
How have you prepared / dealt with punctures on the Corsa-E? Thanks!
 
Space Saver or Type Repair Kit or bottle pump & bottle of stuff you inject into the tyre? What are people using? I have 17" Primacy tyres and Michelin state they can only be repaired by a qualified individual. I can get a good tyre repair kit that can deal with nails etc rather than throw away the tyre after I use the spray bottle on it (assume I've to buy a new tyre each time?). Or is a space saver worth it?
How have you prepared / dealt with punctures on the Corsa-E? Thanks!
I expect I'd just go for the spray and get home, then get replaced. Not ideal. I think in all 20 years of having cars, I've only had 2 or 3 punctures that mean't I had to change the wheel to get anywhere, so not super high on my list :)
 
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Space Saver or Type Repair Kit or bottle pump & bottle of stuff you inject into the tyre? What are people using? I have 17" Primacy tyres and Michelin state they can only be repaired by a qualified individual. I can get a good tyre repair kit that can deal with nails etc rather than throw away the tyre after I use the spray bottle on it (assume I've to buy a new tyre each time?). Or is a space saver worth it?
How have you prepared / dealt with punctures on the Corsa-E? Thanks!
Well, one of the first things I got for my Corsa-e was a space saver kit (wheel + jack + tools).
You can see my posts about it:
and here (with pics):

It turned out to be a wise thing to do, as only after a few weeks of ownership, I had a puncture.
Thankfully the original tire was fixable.
I still keep the original tire repair kit in the boot, just in case...

Anyways, on another discussion some guy noted that he doesn't think the 15 inch version of the space saver will fit the hub (might rub the brake calipers).
So if you read my previous posts, ignore the 15" stuff. Go for 16", it works (I too have the 17" wheels) :)
Just note that you need to get a proper PSA (now Stellantis) space saver. Do not go for any previous Corsa's space savers, as they wont fit (Opel/Vauxhall was previously owned by GM).

If you need help, just let me know.
 
Space Saver or Type Repair Kit or bottle pump & bottle of stuff you inject into the tyre? What are people using? I have 17" Primacy tyres and Michelin state they can only be repaired by a qualified individual. I can get a good tyre repair kit that can deal with nails etc rather than throw away the tyre after I use the spray bottle on it (assume I've to buy a new tyre each time?). Or is a space saver worth it?
How have you prepared / dealt with punctures on the Corsa-E? Thanks!
Problem with even a space saver let alone a full size spare is there is nowhere to put it, it would need to go in the main boot along with the charging cable so all of a sudden you've lost most of the boot for putting anything else in or you are putting stuff in on top of a spare wheel.
 
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