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Long Term Care of Your Tesla Battery: It’s Not Rocket Science (Maybe)

49K views 23 replies 11 participants last post by  Dennis  
#1 ·
Introduction

As a Roadster owner, long time Tesla follower and even longer time engineer with experience of batteries and power systems, I thought I put together this little guide on the Tesla batteries and how to care for them. Hopefully this will be useful to the new influx of Tesla owners both as the Model S goes on sale and the Roadster reaches more affordable second hand prices.

Before spending serious money on my cars, I researched as much about the technology and the manufacturers as I could. In fact, I think I’ve probably spent more time researching this topic in the last decade than I have on any other subject, ever!

Nevertheless, as a systems engineer I have to be a bit of a jack-of-all-trades. There are probably specialist power engineers out there that have a more in depth knowledge about the topic than I do. I doubt this is exhaustive and I’d very much encourage feedback from other owners.

I've had to make this post multi-part due to the 6 pictures per posting limit.


Background

I’ve been involved with satellite systems engineering for over a decade. Specifically, back then I was systems engineer for the “bus” (service module) of the Surrey Satellite Technology Ltd GMP satellite platform, including the high level engineering of the power system. SSTL is a pioneer of using commercial technologies in the space field including batteries and Elon Musk was a 10% shareholder at the time.

The batteries that SSTL used were made from off the shelf Sony 18650 lithium ion cells and supplied by ABSL. Hundreds of cells were procured, tested, characterised by their performance and those deemed acceptable were assembled into strings, bricks and then battery modules of various multiples of series or parallel to get the voltage and capacity required. These modules would have their own internal safety and monitoring electronics. Battery modules might range from tens of cells up to several hundred and multiple modules might be used on a spacecraft. Such 18650 batteries have flown on Mars Express, Rosetta (the comet chaser recently in the news), Galileo and many other NASA, ESA and commercial spacecraft.

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The process of testing and building Li-ion 18650 based batteries (c) ABSL

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Rosetta (launched in 2004) is an example of a long duration mission using 18650 Lithium-ion batteries (c) Airbus DS



Those of you paying attention may have noticed this sounds familiar. Yes – it’s pretty much exactly the same way that a Tesla battery, or Energy Storage System in Tesla parlance, is built. So back in 2006 when a friend introduced me to Tesla, I was intrigued – and not entirely surprised – that they were taking the same kind of architecture we used and putting it in a car.


When you are designing spacecraft, you are very much aware that components have a performance at Beginning of Life (BOL) and End of Life (EOL). Some of the most important of these on a spacecraft are the solar arrays and the battery, both of which drop off appreciably in performance over the mission lifetime. The solar arrays will generate less power due to effects like radiation damage and the batteries will drop in capacity due to aging and repeated cycling. We design the power system so that the mission objectives can be met with EOL performance, meaning that at the beginning of the mission there is usually a surplus of power available.

It is important to note that different missions will see a different number of charge cycles – for example, in the case of a low earth orbit spacecraft like the International Space Station, this will be about 5000 cycles a year. Engineers of any electronic system powered by batteries know that there is a non-linear relationship between the Depth of Discharge (DOD) used and number of cycles the battery will last until the capacity reaches it’s EOL state (often 70% of new). They also know that the battery has to be kept within a set of temperature parameters for both storage and use to minimise aging. We were taught this at university: My copy of the satellite engineer's bible, Space Mission Analysis and Design, was published just as lithium ion was coming into use for spacecraft, but the principles are the same whether you are using NiCad, NiMH or Li-ion (see figure 11-11).


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#2 ·
Application to the Roadster

When the Tesla Roadster was announced back in 2006, it was based on AC Propulsion’s electric drivetrain, and was the first production electric car using a lithium ion battery. AC Propulsion and Tesla both used commercial 18650 format cells for their batteries, reasoning that the huge quantities these cells were made in gave them the best ratio of capacity to cost and that they could never be held to ransom by one supplier or one patent holder (followers of EV history will know that this happened to manufacturers of previous cars when the NiMH patents were sold to an oil company).

Back in 2006, the best commodity cell that Tesla could get as a small player was based on Lithium Cobalt (LCO) chemistry. It is thought to be the Sanyo (now Panasonic) UR18650F. This had a high energy density but the trade-off was it has a shorter lifetime and is relatively less stable than other chemistries. Tesla dealt with these negative characteristics by enclosing the cells in a box which monitored each cell for charge, temperature and thermal runaway and separates cells so that if there is a failure, it does not lead to a fire within the whole battery pack. Additionally, the temperature of the battery is carefully managed at all times to maximise its lifetime, which is why the cars will use energy even when parked. It is for this reason that you should always plug the car in when possible.

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Attributes of LCO chemistry (c) Battery University

Nevertheless, even with this careful management, if the cells are charged and discharged to their maximum capacity, with LCO chemistry the cell will reach 70% capacity after 500 cycles. Some cells perform better than others but this is the typical level reached in testing.

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Cycle life of Roadster LCO cell


To mitigate against this, Tesla gave the Roadster different levels of charging: “Standard mode” for everyday use, “Performance mode” which allows the pack to run hotter and output high power for longer and “Range mode” for longer trips or emergencies. There is also a storage mode which keeps the charge level low for longer term keeping (li-ion batteries are damaged by being left fully charged for long periods). Of the two usually used modes, Standard allows a DOD of 84%, whereas Range is a DOD of 97% - very close to full capacity. If you use Range Mode on a regular basis, you will see the level of degradation shown in the graph above. It is for this reason that the Roadster gives a warning each time you use Range Mode which you must acknowledge before charging.

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The car logs its use and the information is available to the service technicians at Tesla. There is also a prominent warning in the manual.

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Note also that in the battery cycle graph there is a small kink at the start of the line – it is a characteristic of lithium ion chemistries that the capacity sees a small drop down after the first few charges before levelling out, therefore these early cycles are discounted from the claimed capacity.

In 2006 the then CEO of the company wrote an article on the company website going into further detail on these topics: A Bit About Batteries | Tesla Motors

By doing all of this we expect more than 100,000 miles of driving range and more than five years of useful life. However, at the end of this period the pack will have less capacity than when new (just like an internal combustion engine has less power and much worse emissions than when new). If, for example, you drive 10,000 miles per year at the end of five years you will have around 70 percent of the energy storage capacity of when new.
As the Roadster has 194 miles ideal range in Standard Mode and 244 in Range Mode when new, this seems a little conservative. Nevertheless, it was prudent of the company to err on the side of caution. With the benefit of a large number of cars in the field (perhaps being driven less by their owners than envisaged on average), they later revised this statement in their IPO filings to say that they expect a battery to reach 70% capacity after 7 years or 100,000 miles. It would appear from the survey conducted by Plug-In America that most Roadsters will indeed reach that mileage before the battery capacity has fallen to 70%. Just as there is a variation in the performance of each cell among a large sample, some sub-units of your battery or ESS will perform better than others. The ESS does its best to manage these variations for the owner but as long as the weakest cell in the ESS is above the expected capacity for its age and use, so the whole pack will have the capacity expected.

Nevertheless, if you want to prolong the useful life of the battery, it is best to keep the charge level within the middle of the charging scale. For example, if you only usually use the car for a 20 mile commute, keeping the charge level around 50% is best (it is for this reason that GM limits the Volt/Ampera to a conservative 66% DOD). Unfortunately this will mean that the car cannot “balance” the various modules in the pack and so over time the apparent capacity of each measured by the car will drift. The lowest one will set the overall measured capacity of the pack and so the car will appear to lose range. To correct this, the car must be fully charged and left for at least an hour before use. Several cycles of charging will see the pack rebalanced and apparent capacity restored.


So all this begs the question: Should you keep your existing Roadster or even take on a second hand one that is a few years old? Well, there is certainly enough information available about the expected behaviour of the LCO cells to make an informed decision. At 170 miles, even a Roadster that is at 70% of its original capacity is still second only to a Model S as the longest range EV on the road. That’s still plenty of fun for a sports car and it is still able to drive longer distances given the availability of Tesla HPCs at 150 (or less) miles on major routes and other 32A charging across the country.


Application to the Model S

The Model S has a very similar battery architecture to the Roadster but the cell chemistry is very different. It is based on Lithium Nickel Cobalt Aluminium Oxide (NCA), a chemistry that has been deployed in telecoms satellite and other spacecraft for over a decade. This chemistry gives high energy density, longer life and more safety than LCO. In satellite use, it is required to last up to 18 or more years.

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Attributes of NCA chemistry (c) Battery University

The cell used by Tesla is a variant of Panasonic’s NCR18650A cell with some Tesla specific features. As can be seen, in its standard guise this cell will have 75% of its capacity left after 500 full cycles, however it is also believed the DOD available on the Model S is less than the Roadster, thus meaning that the battery will last many more cycles and hence miles than that in the Roadster.

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Cycle life of Panasonic NCR18650A cell


Because the Model S also typically travels more miles per charge, over the same distance it uses less DOD, further increasing lifetime. Of course, when Tesla releases an updated battery for the Roadster, it will also have NCA chemistry and travel further. NCA chemistry has the potential to last many thousands of cycles, as this marketing chart from manufacturer SAFT shows.

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#8 ·
Nevertheless, if you want to prolong the useful life of the battery, it is best to keep the charge level within the middle of the charging scale. For example, if you only usually use the car for a 20 mile commute, keeping the charge level around 50% is best (it is for this reason that GM limits the Volt/Ampera to a conservative 66% DOD). Unfortunately this will mean that the car cannot “balance” the various modules in the pack and so over time the apparent capacity of each measured by the car will drift. The lowest one will set the overall measured capacity of the pack and so the car will appear to lose range. To correct this, the car must be fully charged and left for at least an hour before use. Several cycles of charging will see the pack rebalanced and apparent capacity restored.
I wont pretend I fully understood all the post, will have to re-read a few times. Can I ask a question. I have a Leaf that I generally commute 12 miles per day. I have a charger at my office and home. I generally plug it in at the office and leave it all day so it's always 100% when I head home. Only use the home one if I know I have a longer journey, say the weekend. Is this good or bad for battery. I occasionally run the battery down to 2 bars

Thanks
Alan
 
#3 ·
Conclusion

In summary, it can been seen that the LCO chemistry of the Roadster was a trade-off between bringing a viable EV to market in the era 2006-2008 and longevity of the battery. Tesla just didn’t have the buying power or the credibility back then to pick and chose whichever chemistry they needed and they said as much. Now that they can, they have moved to longer lasting NCA chemistry and this is used in Model S and the forthcoming Roadster 3.0 upgrade batteries.

Nevertheless some simple rules will extend the battery life as much as possible.

  • Using Range Mode / 100% a few times a year is fine, but if you are using hundreds of Range Mode charges it is going to cause premature battery aging. It is better to use Standard Mode (Roadster) or 80% or lower (Model S) charging and get a quick top up en route if you can.
  • It is better to use the lower end of Range Mode (low DOD) rather than the upper end if you must go further than Standard allows. However, if you run the battery down to the point it cannot calculate range, you are strongly advised to charge immediately.
  • Fast charging is fine because the packs are so large, the amount going into each cell is tolerable (a low “C” rate).
  • For longer periods off the road, store the car at a low DOD, then do a few full charges afterwards to rebalance the pack.
  • If your usage pattern is lots of shorter drives, it is better to keep the car near 50% charged instead of infrequent charging over the whole DOD range. If you have an OVMS, you can use its Advanced Charge Control features to do this automatically.
  • Before charging the Roadster after a long drive, cool the battery down by initiating a Range Mode charge. You can then switch back to Standard Mode after around an hour. If you have an OVMS, you can also use its Advanced Charge Control features to do this automatically.


Some useful background information is attached.
 

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#12 ·
Thanks for this David, any chance you could explain in a bit more detail though as to how to look after batteries correctly? I think you've left a lot unanswered :p ;)

It's great to read through it all and try to understand a bit more of our personal situations.

My car for example has been sat in storage mode a heck of a lot over the last few months, with a full charge occasionally for when I use it. I seem to have 'lost' range but thought this was due to temperature drop in the winter rather than the cell balancing. Great to learn that after a few standard charges it will report slightly more healthy figures :)

Thank you again!
 
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#5 · (Edited)
@dpeilow

Thanks for posting such an interesting article.

Initially I typed out a number of tech questions that you may know the answer to or have detailed knowledge of, all to do with specific PV energy harvesting methods used on geostationary satellites and redundancy/fault tolerance ... but then I read a couple of reviews of the book you've referred to .. and ordered a copy! List price seems to be £300 for its 1,000 pages but available 2nd hand for £30. Looks like a mass of information for bedtime reading :)
 
#6 ·
So, some questions, @dpeilow , hope you don't mind!
  1. When you say 'It is better to use the lower end of Range Mode (low DOD) rather than the upper end if you must go further' I take that to mean you might start off a journey in Std mode and then (later when en-route) switch to Range mode, to extend the range while at the lower end of battery DOD. Am I right?
  2. Advanced Charge Control? Ok, just googled this. Will play.
Anyway, thanks again (and again and again ...)
 
#7 ·
I take that to mean you might start off a journey in Std mode and then (later when en-route) switch to Range mode, to extend the range while at the lower end of battery DOD. Am I right?
Correct. That's the advice from Tesla's service manager too.
 
#15 ·
Nope, Mk2 Leaf also has 80% option in the UK market. They took it out in the US versions to get an increase on the rated range.

I'd have preferred a configurable setting personally (I mean, c'mon guys, that's basic software engineering). I can get to work on 85% battery, but not 80%.
 
#18 ·
Great post. Tesla isn't very forthcoming these days on the best way to treat your battery so its great to read analysis and insight like this.

The current standard/Daily charge range goes to 90% which is what I charge to daily With the winters the actual range is much shorter than the "rated range". I've been measuring that here as I get through the New England winter:
Winter’s effect on range for the Model S | Tesla Living

Similar to your suggestion for cooling the pack before going on a trip, warming the pack is a good idea too. Tesla also doesnt make that action easy, especially when outside temps are -7F:
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#19 ·
Great post. Tesla isn't very forthcoming these days on the best way to treat your battery so its great to read analysis and insight like this.

The current standard/Daily charge range goes to 90% which is what I charge to daily With the winters the actual range is much shorter than the "rated range". I've been measuring that here as I get through the New England winter:
Winter’s effect on range for the Model S | Tesla Living

Similar to your suggestion for cooling the pack before going on a trip, warming the pack is a good idea too. Tesla also doesnt make that action easy, especially when outside temps are -7F:
View attachment 3464
Brrrrr!
 
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#21 ·
Yup, the roadster battery seems to heat to around 8oC before allowing a charge.
 
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#22 ·
The Model S does manage the pack temperature but Tesla doesnt make it easy to make sure you have a warm pack when you drive. Ideally I could tell it when I plan on leaving in the AM and have it figure out the charging rate/start time. Same for going home.

In theory the Smart Preconditioning in 6.1 should do some of that for us but its, well, not smart.
 
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#23 ·
The Model S does manage the pack temperature but Tesla doesnt make it easy to make sure you have a warm pack when you drive. Ideally I could tell it when I plan on leaving in the AM and have it figure out the charging rate/start time. Same for going home.

In theory the Smart Preconditioning in 6.1 should do some of that for us but its, well, not smart.
I agree. I generally use a different amount of charge during any day, but I normally set off close to the same time in the morning.

Setting a target charge end time would be better than setting scheduled start time. Especially as I'm not particularly bothered if it's "brimmed", if it wasn't quite charged to the level I set I wouldn't mind, ultimately most days I'm only plugging it in for sake of keeping the battery in better condition rather than needing the range. It would be nice if this maintenance was actually having the side effect of giving me better efficiency from the off.
 
#24 ·
Guys... One of the other ways that we know how the Tesla battery packs have performed is through the Plug In America Battery Survey.

They've done one for the Tesla Roadster and Tesla Model S.

I wrote a blogpost (and Teslarati article) on this to remind folks to update their information or provide their information for the survey.
 
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