I believe this tesla-info website is managed by @Jon G ?

The only official Tesla website is tesla.com

 

Lawrence....just get the damn car or move on man 🤣
My Tesla coming to a year since I got it (used) and never had a single issue. None of the problems/issues listed in this article apply to my car, not a single one.

 

Lawrence....just get the damn car or move on man 🤣
My Tesla coming to a year since I got it (used) and never had a single issue. None of listed in this article apply to my car, not a single one.

Agreed. I know we are joking about it @Lawrence but come on mate, I didn't even test drive one. You've heard enough now to know.

You're suffering from buyer's paralysis, you need to strap on your big boy pants and hit the button marked buy.

I'm starting to think you might be trolling us...... 😝😝

 

As has probably been touted numerous times, get as young a car as your budget will allow. The Model 3, as with all Tesla vehicles, is in a perpetual state of incremental improvements to the technology and build quality over the lifespan. Cars built in China (VIN starting LRW) are said to be better built than the Fremont counterparts. The article you cite even goes through some of the changes. Get one young enough and you'll still have some of the 4 year/50,000 mile warranty left.

Regarding the issues listed in that article, look around on this forum and identify one vehicle that hasn't had issues. Personally, I had a Golf GTE which required a new boot seal, wiring grommets, cabin vents, badge drain hose, 12V battery and fuse, and lower control arms in the time I had it.

Elsewhere on the forum, there's the Renault Megane-e turning the interior footwells into decorative ponds, the Hyundai/Kia 12V issues, the Nissan Leaf traction battery SoH thread, VW software on the ID. models. You take a chance on any car you buy, just buy one you'll enjoy owning.

 

Agreed.. Just buy it and enjoy it! Our M3 is just over 2 years old and no real issues whatsoever, its a great car!.... I also have a new Landrover Discovery! , now that's a different story (how much time have you got?)

 

You have all convinced me. I'll post when things are agreed locally

Lawrence

 

We got our ID4 and Tesla at the same time near enough, both new (Oct and Nov 2022).

The ID4 has been back to VW 5 times for warranty work, the Model Y has only seen the service centre to have the towbar fitted.

All manufacturers have problems, it's only the extreme ones like being nicked so easily all you need is a device off ebay, such as the Hyundai/Kia security flaws, that you need to really worry about.

 

Without having even seen the list I am pretty damn sure you can make a list of issues of whatever car that's on the market.

If you can live with the 'One Screen to rule them all' philosophy and a number of typical Tesla quirks,then you should no longer think about it and buy the car. Trrying to ascertain if a car has issues or not by going on the Internet and asking random people on a forum will only confuse you more.

 

This is not a forum with random people. They are mostly going to be people familiar with the car that I am investigating - prior to spending an awful lot of money. As retired scientist I cannot just 'jump' in, I have to investigate first. I am reasonably happy that my very last car can be the M3.

Lawrence

 

I had the front upper arms replaced, a common issue caused by a bad supplier part.

My rear light lenses sometimes get a bit of moisture but it's never bothered me in 4.5 years.

I believe Tesla also looked at my rear camera loom as some did leak a bit but mine was never an issue. They may have just re-applied some weather proofing.

Apart from that just some annoying software related stuff that mostly got fixed with updates. The added features far outweigh any minor niggles.

Biggest problem is it's so trouble free and cheap to run I just don't want to change it though the recent refresh has come the closest. So much has changed now that it would probably be worth spending the extra. I may either wait for a year old '24 car but then we are getting close to the possible compact car release.

 

What model years are you looking at? The very early ones had a few issues that were fixed in later production.

My 2023 has been trouble free other than a software update problem that got fixed remotely.

 

Another happy 4.5 year old SR+ M3 owner. Serviced once (and they did some free recall work at the same time), and got a crack in my rear window replaced free once (and they did some other free stuff then too). All in all, it has cost me less than £200 for servicing and repairs in 4.5 years, plus 4 new tyres. I still love the car.

 

As I said, folks, I am convinced. Now please wait ....

Lawrence 🤞 👨‍🦱💘

 

If it's any consolation I've been in a research mode for what to buy for a long time myself. This was my conclusion, appreciate it's a personal choice though and won't apply to all.

I picked up my two year old (March 22) RWD just a few days ago (called Sparky). White with 19", I know not most efficient wheel choice, but I liked the look of them over small range impact). Absolutely love it.

Agonised over LR, colour, year, spec etc.
Worried from what I read about road noise (Def quieter than my old diesel Insignia!! Give or take as quiet as any car I've been in)

Also drove Highland back to back as part of research as heard difference was massive (only subtlety different imho to drive, and so happy that I wasn't missing out buying used).

Re LR, I personally like the way RWD cars drive, don't drive in snow enough to care about 4wd, and it's way fast enough.

I opted for 2022 for newer efficient motor (3D7), bigger lfp, and Ryzen which perhaps is a bit of future proofing. Glad to have ultra sonic sensors and lifetime basic connectivity too before those got removed.

Still trying to get Tesla to register car to me which is really only annoyance, third attempt, now I have logbook rather than sales receipt maybe they will accept it.

Best of luck on your car purchase Lawrence,
Alex

 

Re LR, I personally like the way RWD cars drive, don't drive in snow enough to care about 4wd, and it's way fast enough.

AWD in the Model 3 is more about speed. 0-60 in 4 point who cares is easier to do with dual motors. It is also possible to optimise the motors for different cruise speeds. For example the front motor could be most efficent at 70mph and the rear at 40mph. I don't know if Tesla do this.


Speed is why there isn't a "standard range" AWD. The LFP pack isn't able to drive two motors at full power. The off-menu RWD LR is slightly faster 0-60. In part that could be because the car can get a bit more power from the batteries in the long range pack.

 

The LR AWD also drives in RWD most of the time. I drive in Chill mode and have S3XY button dashboard up, vast majority of the time the rear motor is doing the work and front motor reads 0 kW. Only when I floor it front motor kicks in with a faint electrical whine.

Though when slowing down quickly, completely release accelerator, I do note front motor chiming in.

Only real advantage I can see for AWD is when you enable off-road assistance so it digitally locks front and rear wheel. But ground clearance isn't there to make it useful.

 

The LR AWD also drives in RWD most of the time. I drive in Chill mode and have S3XY button dashboard up, vast majority of the time the rear motor is doing the work and front motor reads 0 kW. Only when I floor it front motor kicks in with a faint electrical whine.

Though when slowing down quickly, completely release accelerator, I do note front motor chiming in.

Only real advantage I can see for AWD is when you enable off-road assistance so it digitally locks front and rear wheel. But ground clearance isn't there to make it useful.

What happens if you drive in standard acceleration mode? I've never really thought there's much of an efficiency gain using Chill, so I turned it off. I've always assumed it's just the throttle map that's changed, so the front motor will kick in at the same "power demand" but the correlation of that to throttle pedal position changes. Ie if I drive like a granny (or leave the cruise control to ponderously get up to the set speed) in either mode it doesn't make a difference.
BWTFDIK about it. I'm just guessing.

 

Dont Do it Lawrence !
/me ducks

 

Did some very non scientific test with standard acceleration vs chill. At what feels like similar rate of acceleration (small jab in standard vs large jab in chill), both instances front motor were active very briefly. It settles back to rear motor unless lots of acceleration is called for.

If feather the accelerator in standard to feel like my regular driving in chill. Both modes would only use rear motor.

So I agree standard vs chill is just remap of accelerator pedal.

I remembered this video. He traded M3 mid-range RWD to performance. It seems the front AC motor gives that lurching responsive feel. This video explains why rear motor is super efficient and slightly slower to respond.

 

Thanks for doing that little experiment.
And I've always wondered why they use a different type of motor in the front and rear. And now I know!

 

I thought that the AWD would be helpful in wet weather handling but maybe not if the front motor doesn’t normally produce any power.

So how can you tell which motor is doing what, and when?

I bought the LR AWD because I plan on keeping it a long time. If the battery degrades, then it will still have reasonable mileage even with say 30% degradation.

I drive in Chill mode all the time in this weather. It feels like it isn’t as quick at acceleration as standard mode even when you put your foot down hard. Does it reduce the climate control as well?

 

I drive in Chill mode all the time in this weather. It feels like it isn’t as quick at acceleration as standard mode even when you put your foot down hard. Does it reduce the climate control as well?

Yeah, the heating isn't as high in Chill mode....

 

The list of issues you point to was written by me, it was intended to point to things to check where feasible and to break the myth EV cars never go wrong, but also picks up on some of the issues historically reported which are now addressed. Take LFP batteries, the early ones weren’t great because of the software and I know people who rejected their car at the time, but the issues have now been addressed. I’ve left it in and explained it’s resolved in case people Google and only see the early issues.

Teslas aren’t fault free, everyone’s experience will be different but from personal experience our MY has so far had the glass roof refitted, a new drivers seat and the power electronics associated with the front motor replaced, all in the first year, but it’s been fine in its second year.

 

https://www.tesla.com/ownersmanual/modely/en_us/GUID-8EAFF5D8-7209-45ED-A7E0-508FFA60C530.html#:~:text=Touch%20Controls%20%3E%20Pedals%20%26%20Steering%20%3E,a%20smooth%20and%20gentle%20ride.&text=When%20Chill%20is%20selected%2C%20Chill,touchscreen%20above%20the%20driving%20speed

.

 

How about regen use AWD vs RWD in different drive modes? Is this possible to monitor. Or maybe someone has already tested this (any youtube videos out there?).

 

What does 'and have S3XY button dashboard up mean'?

Lawrence (who is not a troll....)

This is my S3XY button app dashboard.

View attachment 188542

I stick my phone front and centre where normal car dashboard would be (bug in the app, it shows same MPH as car centre screen) You can customise the squares to show whatever stat you want, or button actions.

I have 2 buttons behind steering wheel where paddles would be. Left one for AP, so I can enable AP with left or right hands. Right one for chill mode after using the virtual kickdown function from the commander (widget as referred above). Double press right button also toggles 0.5 wiper speed, half speed of Tesla's 1 setting for UK drizzle.

Then 2 buttons behind the screen. One for toggle all interior lights, because there's no easy way to light up for passengers. The other button to change between creep (double press) and hold (press), creep mode is sometimes useful when parking in very tight spaces.

Don't forget to use my Tesla referral code

 

The S3XY button can also run as dongle for ScanMyTesla app. Giving even MOAR info.

This is the battery info tab, there's also HVAC tab, drivetrain tab and others.

I know Tesla says supercharge doesn't degrade. But I would want to see DC charge and AC charge data as seen here before buying a high mileage car.

 

I turned off S3XY button kickdown and tried chill mode pedal to the floor, it's gives 175 kW according to telemetrics:

So although they tweaked chill mode mapping a few months ago, they still haven't unlocked full power.

 

175kW is still plenty though. Has anyone checked what is the max with RWD cars?

 

I’ve just ordered enhance’s new product, the s3xy knob. It looks far more integrated into the 2021 on models than the buttons. I know it works with the buttons as well, but I much prefer the integrated OEM look.

S3XY Knob

enhauto.com