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Rolec Charger - strange issue - SOLVED

5.7K views 19 replies 8 participants last post by  HandyAndy  
#1 ·
I know there are many threads and discussions on the Rolec units, my issue is vaugely mentioned in one or two so I thought I would ask specificaly.
Tethered type 1 Rolec installed 2017, worked fine up until recently. Looking inside it all looks ok.
The issue is if my car (Leaf30) tells the rolec to stop or dont charge it stops, but then keeps trying to connect/start charging. You can hear the contactor CLUNK on CLUNK off, many times.
This is annoying when 100% charge is reached in the night and we can hear CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK

So, any suggestions? Controller maybe?
 
#5 ·
To rule out a possible problem with the car (very unlikely given that it's a Rolec we're talking about) it really needs testing with a vehicle simulator box. That would show for sure if it's a charge point or vehicle fault, but in all probability it's an EPC failure in the charge point, and you may be better off just getting a replacement. There is the option of changing the Rolec EPC for the very much better Viridian one, which would also bring the charge point up to current safety standards. Not exactly a drop-in replacement, as the LED needs to be changed as well, but other than that it should be pretty easy to do.
 
#6 ·
Your Rolec probably predates the latest regs, as did mine, installed 2015. I updated it myself with newer EPC with all the latest safety bells & whistles. Mine lives in gge, if yours is outdoors you may want to glue a small acrylic window where the LED unit sits, as the Rolec LED unit is incompatible with the Viridian one, assuming you want to see the different colours/flashing etc the Viridian does on its built-in LED. Details here:
Rolec Dumb Charger upgraded with DC Leakage Protection...
 
#11 ·
Do make sure you tighten the screws properly tight! Ideally you'ld use a torque screwdriver set to the value given on datasheet for the module being wired up, but these things aren't cheap! I bought one of these:
DRAPER 9 Piece Torque VDE PZ/PH/SL Interchangeable Blade Screwdriver Set, 65372 4005069152338 | eBay
but may be available 2nd hand, or there's this which has enough range, but never used one myself:
Sealey 1/4"Hex Drive Digital Torque Screwdriver - Range 0.05-5Nm - Length 155mm 5051747908369 | eBay
 
#12 ·
It's now mandatory, not optional, to torque terminals to the manufacturer's stated torque setting for things like RCDs, RCBOs main switches, MCBs, isolator switches etc. Gradually manufacturers are now adding the terminal torque setting to device labelling, to save having to look it up. Long overdue, IMHO, as far and away the majority of overheating issues relate to poorly tightened or made off terminations. The exception is probably Rolec RCBOs, that seem quite capable of overheating even when the terminals are properly made off and torqued down. Just crap Chinese made stuff that's not been through proper testing or quality control I suspect.
 
#13 ·
When you gently unscrew each screw for the casing my advice is a dab of grease on each one before it goes back in, a silicone grease or even graphite if you wanted as it aropa the screws welding to the plastic in the heat extremes we suffer in this country and helps keep water ourand this reduce corrosion and likely break in the future as when they corrode in there the extra material locks okto the plastic even more.
 
#18 ·
 
#20 ·
Yup. The amount of tightening required is surprisingly large in my limited experience. And the paper data-sheet for the particular RCBO/whatever will have the correct figure in, or you can probably google for it. I seem to remember the Garo RCBO had a higher tightening torque than many other makes, which themselves are pretty high torques anyway!

Draper make a nice adjustable torque screwdriver. Don't risk a burnt-out EVSE component & failed charge just because you didn't have the right equipment.