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The C-Zero/Ion/i-Miev Battery Health Thread

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38K views 49 replies 11 participants last post by  Jeremy Harris  
#1 · (Edited)
Other cars have a battery health thread so I thought it was time to have one for these cars! ;)

To gather information on the battery health you'll need Canion with a suitable OBD adaptor. An alternative on the C-Zero/Ion is Diagbox using a Lexia 3, or on the i-Miev, the MUT-III tool. I don't expect many people to have a Lexia 3 or MUT-III however. (I do have a Lexia 3 as well as Canion)

There are two main things of interest when looking at the battery health - one is state of health or SoH, the other is cell balance after a moderately deep discharge that would flag up any weak cells. Another lesser factor is cell resistance but this can only be found with Diagbox/MUT-III and is not available from Canion.

Unfortunately neither Canion or Diagbox give a direct SoH figure - they only report usable Ah capacity calculated by the BMS. SoH can be derived from the Ah figure, but only if you know what Ah figure should correspond to a 100% SoH, and this is also not stated in either Canion or Diagbox! (n)

In short, nobody really knows for sure what Ah represents 100% SoH on these cars.

The raw capacity of the cells is 50Ah however they are operated over a reduced voltage range in the car (3.63 volts to 4.1 volts) than that used to specify their capacity, (2.7v to 4.2v I believe) so there would never be 50Ah usable even with brand new cells and making use of turtle mode range.

Charging cells to 4.1 volts instead of 4.2 volts reduces usable capacity by approximately 10% and from this and piecing together other information such as a single Canion reading taken on a warranty replacement pack on a US i-Miev, the generally accepted figure seems to be about 46Ah = 100% SoH, so that's what I use.

I have been recording the Ah figure vs date and mileage since I first bought the car, about 18 months ago first relatively infrequently using Diagbox (since it's a pain to connect and set up) and then more frequently using Canion. I definitely have some anomalous changes in the Ah figure over time so I thought I'd share these for discussion and comparison with others.

I have them recorded and graphed in excel, see below:

Image


Image


I do also have a graph of SoH vs date but as I do almost exactly 1000 miles per month the graph looks identical, so I have no real way to tell how much degradation is related to miles driven and how much the passage of time. I also stopped recording cell resistance when I stopped using Diagbox, although I could check it again if I needed to.

As can be seen, everything looked fine up until around 40k miles, with a drop of approximately 0.1Ah per 1000 miles, when there was a precipitous drop from 38.9Ah to 37.6Ah.

Because my measurements up until 41k miles were very infrequent (only every several months) I don't know exactly when that drop occurred and whether it was one large drop or a series of smaller drops.

I was a bit concerned about this drop and wondered whether I should do the dealer "Battery calibration" procedure in Diagbox, to measure the true capacity. This is a process the basically runs the battery down to a specified voltage under controlled conditions, charges it back up and does a calibration based on that.

Doing this calibration resulted in the figure dropping from 37.6Ah to 36.1Ah. Whoops! :ROFLMAO: This is the vertical downwards line on the graph...

Then after 10 days of normal driving it jumped back up to 37.1Ah all by itself. This just goes to show that while the real battery health never gets better over time, the BMS's estimate of battery health can sometimes rebound if a previous estimate was in error! Since then it has resumed a slow gradual decline.

The question is, did the battery suddenly get worse around 40k or had the BMS been over estimating the true capacity prior to that, and it had a calibration "wake up call" ?

I see roughly 0.1Ah decrease like clockwork every month/1000 miles or so (actually 838 miles when you calculate it) but it is highly likely that this decrease each month is predicted capacity loss based on the BMS's programmed in battery degradation model based on time and mileage.

Opportunities for the BMS to truly measure the capacity accurately don't come very often (as they need a relatively full discharge/charge cycle under favourable conditions, such as warm weather) so in between those opportunities it will follow an assumed degradation model programmed in by the manufacturer, occasionally corrected by actual measurements.

The second main factor of interest in looking at battery health is how well balanced the cell voltages are after a deep discharge of down to say 30% SoC. To do this you need to fully charge the car on a Level 2 charger until the charging stops. At this point the cell voltages should all be balanced within 5mV, which they are on mine.

Now use the car until the SoC reported in Canion is about 30% then look at the cell voltages. Here are mine at 30%:

Image


As can be seen, Cells 25 and 70 are a little bit weaker than most others. Not enough yet to cause me concern, but a noticeable difference nevertheless that should be monitored to see if it worsens. (Which so far it hasn't)

Is this the cause of the sudden drop in estimated Ah capacity around 40k miles ? Unfortunately I was not checking the cell voltages prior to that so I have no way to know. For all I know it was already like that at 28k miles when I bought the car and is unrelated.

I would be interested to see other people's Ah figure for the mileage their car has done, and also see the cell voltage graph when discharged to about 30%. (Note: you must do a 100% Level 2 charge first to allow the cells to be top balanced or the result won't be valid as rapid charging does not balance the cells)
 
#3 · (Edited)
Have you tried EvBatMon iMiev? This app suggests my battery condition is at 83.54%, with 40.1Ah capacity.
Thanks for that - no I haven't tried evbatmon, mainly because I feel it's a bit expensive for a program that basically provides the same information available from Canion and Diagbox. (Canion only had the ability to report Ah added about a year ago so before that evbatmon and Diagbox were the only options for retrieving the Ah figure)

The Ah figure reported, 40.1 on yours will be the same for all three programs. It's interesting that it looks like Evbatmon considers 48Ah to be 100% SoH if you divide 40.1/0.8354.

I'm a bit skeptical of this as being correct as charging the cells to 4.1 volts will lose about 10% of the usable capacity the cells would be capable of. The LEV50 datasheet says it can be charged to 4.2 volts and that its 50 Ah capacity is based on a 4.2v charge.

So 10% off 50Ah is only 45Ah, so even 46Ah might be a bit optimistic. I wonder what they base the 48Ah figure on ? Even the dealer diagnostic tool I have doesn't say what a new battery should be either in the diagnostic GUI or the built in documentation.

Yours at 40.1Ah is still very good, mine was already down to 39.9 at 28k miles. For completion sake, what mileage has yours done and what year is it ?

I hope to be able to build up a battery health reading vs mileage and age from as many cars as possible in this thread so we have a comparative resource as there is very little info out there on the battery health of these cars and what is "normal", or at least typical.
 
#7 · (Edited)
My car's covered almost 27k miles, and was first registered September 2013. I bought it March 2017 when it was on 8k miles.

I have been trying to keep a record of the battery condition over time.
That sudden drop from 88 to 85% between October and November is very interesting - it looks like my sudden drop from 84 to 81% earlier this year after I'd had the car a bit over a year.

I almost get the feeling that these cars may do some sort of big battery health "recalibration" once a year, then during most of the rest of the year it just reports a gradual pre-programmed degradation rate, showing an update each time it is predicted to drop by 0.1Ah.

The cell balance graph at 93% SoC you posted doesn't really mean anything as the charger will have balanced all the cells at 100%.

For the cell balance graph from Canion to be useful you'd need to run the car down to about 30% SoC then check it again - mine are in almost perfect balance down to about 50%, it's only when mine gets towards the bottom that two cells start to diverge somewhat from the rest.

The basis of the test is that you start with all cells balanced at 100% charge then discharge the traction battery most of the way down, once they're mostly discharged any capacity imbalance between the cells will result in individual cells being at a different SoC relative to each other - which is reflected by their individual no-load cell voltages. So the test should also be done with the key on but the car not in READY mode so that there is no load on the traction battery to skew the voltage measurements.
 
#9 ·
Last couple of discharges down to 30% or so indicates that the cell balance is within 0.005 volts across all cells. That was after a charge to 100% complete with cell balancing the night before. Vehicle has 13,500 kms approx.

With regard to measuring SOH using CanIon, any chance of someone posting a step by step guide on how to do this: bearing in mind the Android device I'm using at the moment is just my phone so not permanently present/powered inside the vehicle.

Many thanks
 
#11 · (Edited)
Last couple of discharges down to 30% or so indicates that the cell balance is within 0.005 volts across all cells. That was after a charge to 100% complete with cell balancing the night before. Vehicle has 13,500 kms approx.
A maximum differential of 5mV across all cells at 30% is extremely good. I'm seeing about 30mV difference at 30% SoC with two cells in particular weaker than the rest. The other cells are all within about 10mV of the average. Will need to keep an eye on those two cells I think...
With regard to measuring SOH using CanIon, any chance of someone posting a step by step guide on how to do this: bearing in mind the Android device I'm using at the moment is just my phone so not permanently present/powered inside the vehicle.
There is no direct SoH figure available from the car, the only thing you can get is the "Ah capacity" of the battery.

This is visible on Canion on the very first "My Trip Timer" screen, however as the lines in this first screen are all customisable it's possible the Ah line is not there. If so, click on the beginning of one of the lines of large text and you should get a scrolling pop up - look through that list and near the end is "Ah". Select that and it should show you the usable Ah capacity.

I've highlighted it in red in this picture I grabbed from the Canion Play Store photos:

Image


There is also another screen that shows "Ah history" which will graph the Ah figure each time it changes so you can see at what date and mileage the figure changed, however the bar graphs are fairly small so you can't get the exact figure from the graph.

It's probably best if we all report and discuss the Ah capacity of our batteries rather than SoH, as there is not agreement on what Ah capacity = 100% SoH between different sources which will tend to confuse things, however the Ah figure will be directly comparable across all cars and all software which report it.
 
#13 ·
Not in Canion. Traction battery voltage and current yes, 12v battery voltage, no.

The car is capable of reporting the 12v system voltage - I can measure it using Diagbox as several of the ECU's report the 12v supply voltage. Not sure about current drain of the 12v battery though, possibly not.

It's also possible to measure the voltage at the OBD-II socket as the STN chipset in the OBDLink adaptors can report the battery voltage with an appropriate AT/ST command, but Canion doesn't seem to make use of this either.

I wouldn't worry about the 12v battery too much though - unlike a Leaf the charging system in these seems to work well, I've had no problems with my 12v battery and when I did an overnight rest voltage test it was 12.7 volts - which is just a fraction above the expected 12.6v of a fully charged battery at rest.

The only thing to keep in mind is that the 12v battery is only charged either while the car is in READY mode, or while it is plugged in and actively charging the traction battery.

Once the traction battery is full and charging stops, charging the 12v battery also stops despite still being plugged in. So if you go away on holiday for 3 months leaving the car plugged in won't stop the 12v battery going flat.

For leaving the car for a long time you'd want to discharge the traction battery to be between about 40-80% for minimal degradation and then put the 12v battery on one of those automatic battery conditioners which will keep the battery topped up.
 
#15 ·
Well today I am not happy. Another sudden and significantly large drop in Ah capacity. Something is definitely up with the battery in this car. Due to the ambiguity of SoH calculation on these cars I've updated my graph to show Ah instead, here are my updated figures:

Image


As can be seen there has been another sudden drop of 1Ah in the last month and only about 900 miles.

Referring to last year it can be seen that I did over 10,000 miles over about 10 months for the first 1Ah drop in capacity, so the same drop in 900 miles and 1 month is just not normal. Given that two cells seem weaker than the rest its a fair assumption that it's these two weak cells that are driving down the usable Ah capacity at a rapid rate and that those two cells could potentially be on their way out soon.

Time to get in touch with Peugeot I think to see if their 8 year/60k mile "battery warranty" is worth the paper it's written on. Has anyone ever contacted them formally to see what the exact provisions of the warranty are, such as "acceptable" SoH loss, and whether any allowance is made for individual weak cells ?

I have a feeling they're going to say not covered but it's worth a try. :(
 
#19 · (Edited)
Thanks for the data points @Timmc :) You "mileage" figures are actually in km I presume ?

At 30k miles mine was at about 39.7Ah, so half way between your two cars, so all three cars have comparable degradation at that point. This was before mine started it's more rapid downward slide mind you.

Cell balance looks very good at 40% but you won't really start to see any imbalance until you get down to about 10-20% as 40% is within the flat "plateau" voltage range for the cells where the voltage hardly changes with SoC.

If you run it down to 20% and take a voltage graph snapshot that would give data that was directly comparable to the snapshots I've posted.
 
#21 ·
Hi, Thanks for the advice so far - more requested here!

Also another data set for the battery health thread.

Today I drove another 62 plate C Zero with a recorded 14,000 miles and I used an ODBLink with Canion to gather some data after the drive.

At start of the test drive 100% displayed on 'fuel gauge' and 63 miles RR with trip meter zero'd.
Unfortunately, I was not permitted to fit the dongle from the start as negotiations continued whilst I was out driving!
Drove 16 miles of mixed town, dual carriageway, and M-way with continuous AC on low fan for demisting. The cabin heater was on low for the last 4 miles or so. This brought the tank gauge down to 9 bars with the RR showing 24 miles. So I assume range with that style of driving to be about 40 miles.

On return to the dealer I was then able to fit the dongle and read off the data from selected Canion screens. (I did 'print screen' them but I'm having trouble getting the files into this PC!).

So, on the 'my Trip Screen' AFTER the test drive, with the key 'ON' but not displaying 'Ready' I have:

Odo 14176

RR 24

SOC% 60.0

Volts 346

Batt Temp C 21.3 (not relevant as this was some time after the test drive)

Ah 39.0 (Assume this is Ah adjusted for 100% SOC?)

I also viewed the individual cell voltages and saw 2 cells down from the average by 0.01V and several up by the same amount. Nominal cell voltage was 3.9V at 60% SOC and the pack appears to have 88 cells.

Once I have figured out the Canion options I may be able to provide more information.

I welcome your thoughts and ideas on this set of data.

Thanks, Jon
 
#22 · (Edited)
An Ah of 39.0 sounds OK and within normal variations, marginally lower than what my car reported at 28k miles, but remembering that battery degradation is a function of both mileage and calendar age... and there is some evidence to suggest that calendar age is a larger factor that actual miles travelled with EV batteries. And also how the battery is treated (whether left sitting idle at full charge a lot etc) has quite an effect too. So driving/charging style of previous owners is a factor too. So I would be happy with 39.0 Ah.

+/- 0.01 volts between cells is perfectly normal, and you wouldn't expect to see any significant variation beyond this at 60% SoC whether the cells were well balanced or not. So this reading is good and to be expected but doesn't necessarily tell you anything about any cell imbalances as they won't show up until down below about 30% SoC.

RR of 63 miles (presumably before the heater or A/C was turned on) would be consistent with 39Ah, (it's about what I used to get in summer with Ah of 39.9) and it will of course drop a lot in winter if you use the heater.

40 miles with heater and/or AC on and doing motorway/dual carriage way driving in poor weather this time of year is about all I can manage in my car with an Ah of 35.4. (Daily commute 35.5 miles of mixed urban and motorway driving - I get home with 3-6 miles RR with heater running the whole way) If you drove a bit more conservatively you'd probably manage about 45 miles in the same conditions you tested in today with the heater on.

Once the car is warm I tend to leave the temperature setting high but drop the fan speed to 50% or less to reduce consumption of the heater, and alternate it manually between windscreen/footwell and driver/footwell every few minutes.

So overall, sounds OK to me and within expected ranges for the age of the car. Can't be certain about any cell imbalances without seeing the voltage graphs at a SoC < 30% but at 39Ah I don't see any reason to suspect any cell problems.

BTW I've found the easiest way to get Canion screenshots onto a PC is to use Google Drive - upload them using the Android Google drive app then if you already have google drive installed on your PC anyway as I do, they will just appear. In theory you can connect a USB cable and see the android device as external storage but I sometimes have difficulty with getting that to work...

If you take the screenshot using the Android screenshot feature (sleep/wake and volume down buttons on my device) they go into the normal Android camera roll, however if you use the built in screenshot feature in Canion (double tap on the left sidebar from memory) they actually end up in the BT_CAN directory that belongs to the app. I don't recommend the built in screenshot feature in Canion because it often seems to say that it has taken a picture but no file is saved in the BT_CAN folder.
 
#25 ·
Here are the cell voltages at 23% SOC on the lower Ah car.
Thanks for the data point - that looks really good! No concerns about your cell balance at all. By comparison mine have nearly 100mV imbalance at ~20% SoC. Mind you mine has done significantly more mileage as yours is at 50k km while mine is nearly 50k miles. And I don't know how our driving cycles compare - in the winter I'm having to drive mine down to about 20% on a daily basis to make it home, which can't be good for the cells, and will most likely accelerate any imbalance between them as the cells that are already weaker will get discharged deeper than the good cells causing more degradation than other cells and thus causing them to diverge further. There is a snowball effect here if the cells are deeply discharged on a regular basis.
 
#27 ·
Slightly off topic regarding the OBDLink LX which I am using to access battery health. This loses Bluetooth connection fairly regularly. It's slightly annoying as it can not simply be reconnected but has to be unplugged or reset before reconnecting.

Have read that there is firmware update that can correct this using the OBDLink app. However the app connects to the dongle but not the car and does not allow the firmware update even though connection to the dongle is all that is needed.

Does anyone know a way round this ?
I suppose connecting to an ICE that the app recognises should allow a firmware update.
 
#28 ·
Slightly off topic regarding the OBDLink LX which I am using to access battery health. This loses Bluetooth connection fairly regularly. It's slightly annoying as it can not simply be reconnected but has to be unplugged or reset before reconnecting.
Does it just seem to freeze and then start working after power cycling the device, or does it completely lose the bluetooth pairing such that you have to re-pair the device ?

Does it happen in the middle of using Canion ? If so, have you turned the car off by any chance or does it happen when the car is on driving ?
Have read that there is firmware update that can correct this using the OBDLink app. However the app connects to the dongle but not the car and does not allow the firmware update even though connection to the dongle is all that is needed.

Does anyone know a way round this ?
I suppose connecting to an ICE that the app recognises should allow a firmware update.
Yes there is an easy way around this - fortunately for me as my ICE is too old to even have an OBD-II socket! :cool:

Instead of going to Connect (which will fail on an Ion as it is not fully OBD-II compliant) go directly to Settings, Communications, Bluetooth Device and select the device (you have probably already done this) then go to Firmware updates, then click on the triple dot icon in the top right corner (sorry, not enough of an Android user to know what this button is called!) and choose firmware recovery.

This should now interrogate the device and find what model it is, once the device is listed you can choose check for updates (with an active internet connection of course) and then update the device. The more button next to the device lets you choose which firmware version to install. At the moment mine lists 4.3.3, 4.3.0, 4.0.0 and 3.4.1 as being available, so it is possible to both upgrade and downgrade the firmware version.
 
#31 ·
After monitoring AH capacity with Canion for about 6 months, I was surprised to see last week that the AH capacity had spontaneously increased by about a full One Amphour. I hadn't done any recalibration.

What was surprising is that with consistent usage, the RR indication has dropped by about 6 miles. The two events seem linked in time.

Any obvious explanation?.

Is it time to perform a dealer battery capacity recalibration?
 
#32 · (Edited)
After monitoring AH capacity with Canion for about 6 months, I was surprised to see last week that the AH capacity had spontaneously increased by about a full One Amphour. I hadn't done any recalibration.

What was surprising is that with consistent usage, the RR indication has dropped by about 6 miles. The two events seem linked in time.

Any obvious explanation?.
For the Ah capacity jumping up - possibly.

True Ah measurements are very infrequent, depending on what SoC range you run the car through it might go for months without being able to take a measurement since a measurement needs a near full charge/discharge cycle. Meanwhile it will apply an assumed rate of about 0.1Ah loss per 1000 miles. Did you see this gradual 0.1 loss during that 6 months before it jumped up again ?

Usable capacity is less in sub-zero weather, it's possible that its last measurement was taken in very cold temperatures and gave a pessimistic reading, now it may have measured again in warmer weather and found it was better than it thought.

From what I've seen the BMS's tracking of Ah capacity is pretty simplistic - an assumed degradation model is followed of about 0.1Ah per 1000 miles, and the figure is only updated from measurement if the measurement is significantly out - perhaps by at least 1Ah.

If you look back on the previous page you'll see the 1Ah jump mine did a couple of weeks after the Diagbox recalibration. (That is the only rebound I've seen though)

As for the 6 mile range loss - not sure. I'd be checking the car for things like wheel alignment (run through any big potholes recently ?) low tyre pressure and brake drag.

The design of the brakes on these is such that they're prone to the brakes dragging slightly, especially the front brakes due to the stupid rubber bush on the lower caliper slide pin. (I replaced my caliper slide pins with all metal ones...)

Even a slight brake drag could slash a few miles off the range.
Is it time to perform a dealer battery capacity recalibration?
Having tried it myself, I wouldn't waste your time.

All it does is asks you to run the heater until the cells get down to a specific voltage (about 3.775v from memory) and then plug it in to charge until it reaches 100%, then updates the Ah figure immediately based on that charge (not discharge) cycle. To go through the whole process takes nearly a full day, even if you drive the car first to speed up the getting it down to 3.775v part of the process and just let the heater finish it off.

The purpose of the calibration is to reset the Ah figure upwards in the case that the battery pack has been replaced. When I ran it on mine it actually went down by 1.5Ah, then a couple of weeks later went back up by itself by 1Ah for a net loss of 0.5Ah - in other words the battery was worse than the BMS thought it was.

If yours thinks it has improved I would just thank your lucky stars and drive on. Don't poke the bear... :LOL:
 
#33 · (Edited)
Hi thanks for the reply.

I'm trying to find a datasheet for the LEV50N battery cell, voltage versus AH capacity at various temperatures.

The nearest I've managed to get is a curve for the industrial Yuasa battery LIM50EN which I'm going to make an almighty big assumption is the same as the LEV50N (fitted to improved iMievs, Czeros, Ions). ???????

Next I will try the PSA range battery recalibration procedure to see whether I can access any of the lower part of the discharge curve (down to 3.62 volts per cell). Anyone with a later model triplet know at which voltage (min cell voltage) turtle should appear?

regards
 
#36 ·
To correct what appeared like a problem between the BMS and EVECU not understanding each other (jump upwards in reported AHr capacity but coincident jump downward in the actual range and the guessomter range), I attempted the Diagbox routine.

With the car flat, no bars on the battery I commenced a Diagbox session complete with charging via the granny. I followed the instructions, the car charged to one bar, next step was to set Aircon, heater and airflow to max and then about 1/2 hour later, that stopped, battery was flat. According to the procedure, charging should then stop, and the whole thing could then be manually advanced to step 2. However it never did stop charging. Checking every 20 minutes, still no stop. 2 hours later car was at 3 bars and still no stop to charging. I aborted procedure, tried step 2 and computer reported an error code x012 or similar and said procedure had failed

Then I had to use the car for a 12 mile errand, refilled to 80% via Chademo, then topped up at night via granny again (nice and slow).

Voila, range increased back to what it had been, driving today range decreased in a linear way after a 4 mile pause with no reported range reduction.

No initial big jumps downwads at all.

By the way, this car has never never displayed a turtle, static voltages differences across full to zero bars are max 5 mV (limit of resolution ?)
 
#38 ·
Here's an example of a 2011 C-zero with over 60.000km.

Canion is showing 30Ah capacity.
I did have a battery fault recently and I'm hoping 30Ah is not correct and that soon it goes up.
Perhaps if you discharge it all the way and then recharge a couple of times, it will correct.

I have a 32Ah imiev, there is quite a lot of degradation on old ones...
 
#39 ·
Ok, this will not be a small post. Basically, I have an Ion that I barely use as I also have a Renault Zoe ZE40 Q90. Anyway, I have been using Canion and EvBatMon to monitor the battery's degradation in a spreadsheet. Despite my low mileage over time I was getting alarmed at the PMC (SOH) and Ah dropping down quite rapidly. I put this down to natural againg of the battery but then I read this thread and a separate thread by @DBMandrake on the myimiev website. In that thread someone mentions that balancing of the cells doesn't happen until you get down to a very low SOC with the fuel pump sign flashing. Last night I ran my car down, pretty much flat out accelerations, from 75% down to 15% with just one bar flashing (too scared to any lower).

DateAhMileagePMC (SOH)
21/02/2018​
40.3​
23820​
85%​
06/06/2018​
40​
24030​
83%​
22/09/2018​
39.7​
24321​
23/11/2018​
39.5​
24355​
24/03/2019​
39.2​
24439​
81​
13/05/2019​
39​
24546​
81​
22/06/2019​
38.9​
24767​
81​
06/08/2019​
38.8​
24853​
81​
05/10/2019​
38.7​
25006​
80.62​
08/10/2019​
39.7​
25071​
82.71​

Well, my SOH has jumped up to 82.71% and my Ah up 1 to 39.7. Bear in mind that my car was bought in Feb 2017 with 22.5k miles on the clock and with an Ah of 41.5 (PMC/SOH 85%). I normally charge using granny charger AC to 100% from a SOC of usually 5 bars. I have also rapid charged on at least 20 occasions to 80%. The Ah was not actually the intention of my test but to see the cell voltages in terms of the health of the battery. This is the voltage state at the start of the charge:

123552


This was the voltage state at the end of the charge, some 9 hours later...balancing takes a long time:

123550


I only noticed the rise in Ah near the end of the charge when I hit Ah history by accident:

123551


I checked EvBatMon to confirm the this.....and lo and behold it was true:

123553


As I said, I only use this car as an urban runabout but I'll run it down on normal urban roads over the next week and see what mileage I get out of it before the flashing fuel pump sign. I'm more curious to see if the Ah drops back down from 39.7 to 38.7. It definitely looks like the deep discharge and full charge cycle does give a more accurate Ah capacity.

Maybe I should try this on my Zoe?.....if I have a spare 31 hours to charge it using my granny charge from 0% to 100% on my driveway :)

Cheers
Dave
 

Attachments

#40 ·
Ok, this will not be a small post. Basically, I have an Ion that I barely use as I also have a Renault Zoe ZE40 Q90. Anyway, I have been using Canion and EvBatMon to monitor the battery's degradation in a spreadsheet. Despite my low mileage over time I was getting alarmed at the PMC (SOH) and Ah dropping down quite rapidly. I put this down to natural againg of the battery but then I read this thread and a separate thread by @DBMandrake on the myimiev website. In that thread someone mentions that balancing of the cells doesn't happen until you get down to a very low SOC with the fuel pump sign flashing. Last night I ran my car down, pretty much flat out accelerations, from 75% down to 15% with just one bar flashing (too scared to any lower).

DateAhMileagePMC (SOH)
21/02/2018​
40.3​
23820​
85%​
06/06/2018​
40​
24030​
83%​
22/09/2018​
39.7​
24321​
23/11/2018​
39.5​
24355​
24/03/2019​
39.2​
24439​
81​
13/05/2019​
39​
24546​
81​
22/06/2019​
38.9​
24767​
81​
06/08/2019​
38.8​
24853​
81​
05/10/2019​
38.7​
25006​
80.62​
08/10/2019​
39.7​
25071​
82.71​

Well, my SOH has jumped up to 82.71% and my Ah up 1 to 39.7.
Not balancing the cells unless you get down to a low SoC is not accurate to say - the cell balancing is done near the end of the charge cycle above about 85% or so and is a separate thing altogether... however it's true that if you never discharge the car below approx 4 bars then the BMS will never get an opportunity to measure the Ah capacity of the battery as it degrades, so it will have to estimate the degradation using it's programmed in degradation model. In other words it extrapolates what the Ah will probably be based on the last actual measurement and expected decline of the battery with age and use since then. And if the last actual measurement was a long time ago it will have been extrapolating for a long time and there could be a significant error in the figure, particularly if the battery degraded less or more than expected.

On my car before I started seeing three cells go faulty I was seeing the Ah figure drop by about 0.1Ah per month / 1000 miles. As I always do about 1000 miles a month I have no way to be sure whether it's the calendar month that the BMS is using or the 1000 miles, or a combination of the two, since batteries degrade both with cycling and calendar age, so it should be taking both factors into account.

Looking at your graph you are doing a very low monthly mileage compared to me but the rate of decline still looks fairly close to 0.1Ah per month, so I would say that the decline you were seeing is simply a programmed in 0.1Ah reduction per calendar month to estimate the age related degradation of the battery.

The reason the figure has gone up after a deep discharge followed by a full charge is because the BMS had, in the absence of being able to take recent measurements, overestimated the decline of the battery over time and your battery has actually declined less than predicted. So when it can take a measurement it has made an upwards correction.

A deep discharge is not actually good for the battery if it's done regularly, nor has it rejuvenated the battery in any way - it's just allowed the BMS to take a measurement and realise that it was over pessimistic about the state of the battery. You'll continue to see it dropping at about 0.1Ah per month so in 10 months or so you'll probably be back to where you were.

By the way mine is dropping at around 0.4Ah per month / 1000 miles now due to a few faulty cells, here's hoping the cell swap I'm planning to do soon does the trick....
Bear in mind that my car was bought in Feb 2017 with 22.5k miles on the clock and with an Ah of 41.5 (PMC/SOH 85%). I normally charge using granny charger AC to 100% from a SOC of usually 5 bars. I have also rapid charged on at least 20 occasions to 80%. The Ah was not actually the intention of my test but to see the cell voltages in terms of the health of the battery. This is the voltage state at the start of the charge:

View attachment 123552

This was the voltage state at the end of the charge, some 9 hours later...balancing takes a long time:

View attachment 123550

I only noticed the rise in Ah near the end of the charge when I hit Ah history by accident:

View attachment 123551

I checked EvBatMon to confirm the this.....and lo and behold it was true:

View attachment 123553

As I said, I only use this car as an urban runabout but I'll run it down on normal urban roads over the next week and see what mileage I get out of it before the flashing fuel pump sign. I'm more curious to see if the Ah drops back down from 39.7 to 38.7. It definitely looks like the deep discharge and full charge cycle does give a more accurate Ah capacity.
39.7Ah at 25k miles seems fairly similar to what mine was at that mileage - mine was 39.9Ah at 28k miles, however it would have been a couple of years younger than your car at the time. My pack was OK up until about 40k miles then things started to go wrong...
 
#41 ·
@DBMandrake actually, if you remember, we got our cars from the same place within a month of each other. Our registrations are sister cars.....both SB11-plates.....just the last registration letter is different (41.5 Ah at 22.5k miles when I purchased it Feb/Mar 2017). When I got my Zoe in Sep 2017 I really stopped using the Ion on a weekly basis as I work away a lot, and maybe only took it for a spin to get the rust off the front discs. Hence why I had the 8 year-old 12v battery problem, sticking gearshift etc. I definitely never use it enough, and only started using it recently just to keep it going as I was under the impression that battery was degrading badly. But, as you point out, this is all due to the under-use and the BMS just dropping the Ah by 0.1 each month as it doesn't know any better.

I will not be in the habit of dropping it to a low SOC. It was just that I read in your myimiev thread that "proper" cell balancing didn't take place until you had the flashing pump and charged it to 100%. This was the reason for this experiment. I just wanted to see if I was going to get the same cell degradation as yourself as our cars are the same age.That said, it certainly looks like mine has not been hampered too badly by sitting cold over two winters. The rapid charges I have done (we now have one in Barrhead where I live), usually 30% to 80% on a warm battery 15+C, has not done any real harm to it from what I can tell.

Good luck with the cell swap.
 
#46 ·
@DBMandrake actually, if you remember, we got our cars from the same place within a month of each other. Our registrations are sister cars.....both SB11-plates.....just the last registration letter is different
I guess I should say Hi..... another SB11 here. Any idea if our cars were originally used by the same customer? Mine seems to have been a lease car for its first few years.

Cheers.

123564
 
#45 ·
Note that the BMS does command a bottom balance from time to time. No idea what prompts it to bottom-balance, but "balancing" isn't only the top-balance phase.
I don't think anyone has ever conclusively proven this. Many of us have observed that the charging rate sometimes drops back to near nothing for 10-30 minutes at approx 30% SoC if you start charging from less than 30% then it resumes.

But to prove this is bottom balancing and not just a pause consisting of monitoring the cell voltage you'd need to monitor the status of the balancing resistor switches during this time. Unfortunately Canion cannot monitor the state of the cell balance (transistor) switches. I can monitor the operational status of the individual cell balancers with Diagbox however it's quite a hassle to have it hooked up during a charging session laptop and all and I have not as yet managed to catch it with Diagbox connected during the charging "pause" as the pause does not always occur.

Bottom balancing is not as useful as you'd think - because it will do the wrong thing if the cell capacities differ significantly. If you have some weak cells - as my car does, and the pack overall is at 20% SoC the weak cells will be at a significantly lower voltage than the good ones. To balance this at a low SoC you would have to bleed all the good cells down which would be very time consuming. (And take much longer than the 30 minute pause) And then if you resuming charging from this low SoC with the cell voltages balanced what you'll find is that the weak cells reach maximum terminal voltage before all the others (since they take less Ah to charge) and you will then have to bleed them back down again.

So a bottom balance is counter productive to the top balance that will then occur towards the end of the charge cycle, and you end up doing a lot of balancing that had you only done it at the top, wouldn't have been need in the first place. So I'm sceptical without proof that the pause at 30% is actual cell balancing occurring.