Not car specific, but three things to consider:-
1) Brake pad movement / play. Cleaning & refitting with a little copper grease? or at worst a seized or sticky caliper.
2) Splined drive shaft is not sufficiently greased and torqued up, so on regen braking / accelerating the a tick as the spline movement engages for drive or braking.
3) Wheel nut or nuts not quite tight enough.

 

Thanks. I'll have a look at wheel nuts ;-)

 

when i had it it was a worn CV joint / drive shaft gator

not sure if EVs have them (i know little about cars)

edit... (its pre coffee i should have read better!) you have already mentioned you had them replaced...... so 1) i guess that means EVs have them and 2) if it started after they were done then i wonder if they were done properly.

 

not sure if EVs have them (i know little about cars)

Yes, EVs with a front motor(s) and/or AWD will have CV joints on the front wheels to transmit drive to the front wheels and be able to steer at the same time. No different to ICEVs in that respect.

 

Upload video onto youtube or other video sharing site? You can only paste pictures natively on here.

My Leaf has tiny clicking noise when lifting off accelerator or applying accelerator. Seems to be related to the switch between regen and power. It's been 4 years it's still all okay. I think this is Jez's number 2.

My Model Y has a small click noise first time brake is applied, and again when first braking after change drive direction. Tesla mobile service done a visual check and says the brake pad has slight play in the caliper, doesn't affect safety. Looks like Jez's number 1.

So there's many different factors. But if you've recently had work done on your car, I'd say it may be Jez's number 3. Worth re-doing all the nuts as a sanity check.

 

Upload video onto youtube or other video sharing site? You can only paste pictures natively on here.

My Leaf has tiny clicking noise when lifting off accelerator or applying accelerator. Seems to be related to the switch between regen and power. It's been 4 years it's still all okay. I think this is Jez's number 2.

My Model Y has a small click noise first time brake is applied, and again when first braking after change drive direction. Tesla mobile service done a visual check and says the brake pad has slight play in the caliper, doesn't affect safety. Looks like Jez's number 1.

So there's many different factors. But if you've recently had work done on your car, I'd say it may be Jez's number 3. Worth re-doing all the nuts as a sanity check.

Here are the links:

 

This started, rarely initially but now more often, after halfords replaced "cv boots".

What’s the mileage? Did they replace the full CV joint or just the boot/rubber gaiters (which sometime split with age/mileage allowing the CV to lose grease, hence wear even faster)?

Clicking noises on full lock usually indicates the joint are on the way out.

 

Mileage - 110k, it's a '13 Ampera
All I know is they replaced CV boots, that's what they told me...

 

EV's with a rear motor also have CV joints to account for axle movement.

 

Not that easy to tell from the videos, but if it's during low speed accelerating and decelerating, it could the hub nut on one or both sides is loose. Did they replace the hub nut(s) when doing the CV boots or use the old ones? Did they torque them up in the correct manner? Another more expensive option is the drive shafts are on their way out.

 

I don't know. They only told me they had to replace cv boots..

Also, this started happening quite recently and recently my car had MOT and they said that cv boots are leaking, so maybe this has something to do with the ticking sound?

 

I guess we're all trying to help here, but only thru online diagnosis and a few Youtube videos. Did Halfords charge you for 2 new hub nuts? If not, then they re-used the old ones. CV boots are quite easy to find, I think, they are the same for the Vauxhall Astra J/Zafira/Adam etc. Definitely not the case for the nuts, they need to be ordered in. Thinking about it, one time my CV boot was split and the mechanic replaced it, then packed it full of grease. That worked for about 2 weeks, then the click came back, so I then got a new driveshaft & nuts My suggestion is the hub nuts, followed by the drive shafts.

2 videos showing the problem:
First one shows the noise quite clearly:

This one shows the part numbers in the description:

 

Thanks everyone for your replies.

I thought I would ask. if anyone is willing to help fix it (obviously I'd pay you for your time and expertise) and if you're not very far from MK, please message me.