Classic advice is D on motorway and fast open roads then B on rural twisties and urban roads.
Posts by Hitstirrer
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The whole subject of D v B has been debated for years. I have driven many different EVs and experienced the ways that the various OEMs provide access to regen. The early systems were pretty crude and drivers adapted to develop new skills that required much more finesse when using the 'go' pedal. It has always been possible to find the sweet spot where the car would coast - between drive and regen - and that gave many people some satisfaction. Others found it to be irksome as they regarded the accelerator as a switch that was either on or off.
The Korean cars developed the flappy paddle approach where much of that accelerator tickling became redundant. At last the ideal level of regen could be selected right down to zero where the car simply glided as if in neutral. And could be adjusted by the second to time the approach to a halt and glean as much regen as was available. And within each setting the driver could still use the one pedal drive method if desired by feathering the accelerator appropriately. I find the Hyundai/Kia method suits me best, and when I drive other cars it can be quite annoying to have to adapt back to what I now regard as the old fashioned regen method that other OEMs install.
I now tend to select zero regen when starting a drive and use the paddles to grab regen when appropriate and then cancel it as much as possible. This means that the car is coasting much more than you would imagine. Grabbing whatever regen is available. And my efficiency figures are good. This kind of operation is perfectly possible in a car with just D or B available but requires much more driver input and skill to seek out the sweet spot in every situation. I now find that to be out of date and could limit my choice of car when the next change is due.
The Korean cars developed the flappy paddle approach where much of that accelerator tickling became redundant. At last the ideal level of regen could be selected right down to zero where the car simply glided as if in neutral. And could be adjusted by the second to time the approach to a halt and glean as much regen as was available. And within each setting the driver could still use the one pedal drive method if desired by feathering the accelerator appropriately. I find the Hyundai/Kia method suits me best, and when I drive other cars it can be quite annoying to have to adapt back to what I now regard as the old fashioned regen method that other OEMs install.
I now tend to select zero regen when starting a drive and use the paddles to grab regen when appropriate and then cancel it as much as possible. This means that the car is coasting much more than you would imagine. Grabbing whatever regen is available. And my efficiency figures are good. This kind of operation is perfectly possible in a car with just D or B available but requires much more driver input and skill to seek out the sweet spot in every situation. I now find that to be out of date and could limit my choice of car when the next change is due.
All things that I don't want. Can that be de-selected? If not then that's another brand that I will avoid. I quite like being fully in charge of my car and making such decisions.
But can you also select zero regen, or do you still have to 'feather' the accelerator to search for that coasting point?
Really? I didn't know that. I thought that D was just a weaker version of B over the regen settings. If D in an ID3 is truly equivalent to my Ioniq with the right-hand paddle fully pressed, and enables totally zero regen, then I might put that car back on my 'look at' list for the next change.
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