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I drove exclusively in eco mode before my drivetrain started making this noise. The car has plenty of power in all drive modes.

If anyone finds any Korean forums where Niro owners hang out, please post a link. It's been selling there the longest so I'm curious what kind of experience they've had with this car.
 
From early March I have driven about 8300 km's (~5200 miles) and on and off I now start hearing the drivetrain noise as well. I drive the car in eco mode by default, only on a few occasions I used the other modes to demonstrate the absurd acceleration the car is capable of.
 
OK, got my car back this evening and the clicking noise has gone. I've driven around for about an hour as it seemed worse off the car had been driven for a while and there's no clicking when accelerating or slowing down. Whether that's permanent or not who knows but I'll report back in a week.

Chatting to the service manager he told me the motor had a thicker flange where it bolts to the reduction gear box. The bolts needed to be longer to accommodate it. He said this is to stop any flexing between the two.
They only replaced the motor, the gearbox is the original.

I hope that's sorted it. I'll drive it for a week or two before putting it up for sale, wouldn't want to pass on an issue to someone else.
 
That matches what I saw posted on the Dutch forum a few days ago. The one person who had his entire drivetrain replaced said his new motor looked a bit different from the old:

"They have completely replaced the engine, drive, etc. At the garage, they said the replacement engine was slightly different and a possible overhaul of the old engine"

Now if I could just get a part number, I might be able to convince someone here in USA to do the same for me.

In addition to fixing the tapping at low speed ( < 10mph), did you also notice any reduction in the rumbling/purring sound that seemed to intensify when accelerating around 30-40 mph. I think it's the same issue - just a faster frequency of the low-speed tapping noise.
 
That matches what I saw posted on the Dutch forum a few days ago. The one person who had his entire drivetrain replaced said his new motor looked a bit different from the old:

"They have completely replaced the engine, drive, etc. At the garage, they said the replacement engine was slightly different and a possible overhaul of the old engine"

Now if I could just get a part number, I might be able to convince someone here in USA to do the same for me.

In addition to fixing the tapping at low speed ( < 10mph), did you also notice any reduction in the rumbling/purring sound that seemed to intensify when accelerating around 30-40 mph. I think it's the same issue - just a faster frequency of the low-speed tapping noise.
Mine was making that noise higher up, about 50mph and that has gone as well as the slow clicking. I've listened again this morning and there's no noise on acceleration anywhere that I can hear.
 
...
Chatting to the service manager he told me the motor had a thicker flange where it bolts to the reduction gear box. The bolts needed to be longer to accommodate it. He said this is to stop any flexing between the two.
They only replaced the motor, the gearbox is the original.

My understanding is that some of the earlier i3s exhibit a motor fixing bolt failure owing to the occurrence of sudden torque loads on the motor in certain driving situations - the driving wheels under acceleration/ deceleration and becoming momentarily airborne owing to a bumpy road surface. I believe that subsequently an upgrade included stronger bolts and a change to the motor software to limit very high motor currents (and hence impose a limit on very high motor torque)...
 
I think this is the engine number. Seen from the top
Thanks. That looks more like a serial number than a model number but I'll look around my engine to see what I can find for comparison.

No paper work from the service center that might indicate what part numbers were replaced? If you don't mind sharing a photo of the invoice (with your personal information removed), it could also be helpful if it indicated exactly what problem was identified and how it was repaired. Could help others to expedite their fault diagnosis.
 
I don't have any paperwork, haven't had anything in print all the way along so no part numbers or details on what has been done.

That number is on the top of the motor lookintg from the back of the 'engine' bay. There's a fat orange cable going in to what I asume is the inverter and it is under that cable
 
Hilarious video. The relevant bits start at time offset 5:30. Looks like this owner was lucky enough to reject the car and get his money back to buy a Tesla. At least it looks like KIA is fully aware of the "ticking motor" problem with many of these cars.
 
Discussion starter · #236 ·
Wow
Nice to see they treat the car with respect eh?


Sent using Tapatalk (I'm on my phone so sorry for any auto correct screwups)
 
Yes this was my car at the time after a disaster of a travel experience to France with this EV / RAC and dealing with Kia in some respects to my consumer rights and explaining a rather terminal logic fault for me to take long trips in it.
I did read about your trip, and the rac mess.
Did they discover what the problem was with the charging, or did you give up with them early on?
I tried to reject mine because they couldn't fix the noise but they want to deduct 25p for each mile I'd driven. Did they do to you as well?
 
I tried to understand it and the logs were not produced. Just the car enters a safe mode and no feedback to the user when this happens so you run out trying. That is the best explanation I got and couldn’t rely on it for another trip to Europe without a fix. Damn shame overall a good car with teething problems to sort out. I’m honest and open with people but I wouldn’t accept that ticking noise being blamed on a boot rattle or after pickup service. I would argue how many of those miles are problem free ones and pay that. You don’t deserve a ticking EV nor should pay for the time in between the fix.
 
Discussion starter · #239 ·
Car is booked back in for a test drive with the master tech on the 23rd
Not sure what that's going to achieve since I've told them the noise only happens after a long motorway run


Sent using Tapatalk (I'm on my phone so sorry for any auto correct screwups)
 
Does anyone know if this problem with the e- Niro is occurring with ones bought in the early deliveries or are there people experiencing the problem with recently delivered cars?
 
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