[HandyAndy]

Sounds like an improvement to me, as the heating occurs right inside the 13A plug where there are the springy contacts which can lose their spring, oxidise a bit & increase resistance heating etc. But I'm not a sparky!

 

[sasso]

Hi there, I have same Fault problem with charger (EU plug). Have some one solve the problem and how exactly (i found much varius posts). BR

 

[HandyAndy]

Waht problem? Charger overheating & trips out? Plug getting very hot? You cut the plug off to change to a different one and found more wires than expected? We need more details please.

 

[sasso]

sorry I started so uniformed…

I registered just one problem, chrager blinks Fault.
Now in meanwhile I already open it to sow my wires and measure the resistance betwen them and earth wire, here are results:
(chrager was unused past days)
3,6kOhm pink/brown <> earth
3,6kOhm pink/black <> earth
0,7kOhm black <> earth

Cause that a problem with resistors?
Which one to use for replacing?

Andy thanks for your eforts!

 

[HandyAndy]

On your last pic the hardware version is 1.5.0 . Thermistors measure 3.6 Kohm
I have a pic of a similar board, but hardware version 1.5.4, thermistors around 12K ohm at room temperature.

First of all, please identify exactly what flaching lights combination it is that you see. This pic of back of an Aptiv shows a diagram to identify what fault you have. Should be one with your charger.

Please also post a picture of the back of your charger, helps to know what the date is etc.

It's quite possible they changed the thermistor value at some stage. Lower values like 3.6 Kohm mean slightly more current passes through than for a 10K one, so there will be a bit more self-heating going on, which will alter the temperature estimate! So they may have increased the resistance to reduce this effect. Yo could try putting 10 Kohm resistors from the 2 thermistor-connections to the black connection, but I'm not sure this will help.

As your 2 thermistors read the same, they look to be ok to me. How likely is it that 2 thermistors rated 10 kOhm boh got cooked exactly the same way, suffered the same damage, and both dropped to about 4K (at 25C, my guess) ?

 

[sasso]

On your last pic the hardware version is 1.5.0 . Thermistors measure 3.6 Kohm
I have a pic of a similar board, but hardware version 1.5.4, thermistors around 12K ohm at room temperature.

First of all, please identify exactly what flaching lights combination it is that you see. This pic of back of an Aptiv shows a diagram to identify what fault you have. Should be one with your charger.
View attachment 182784

Please also post a picture of the back of your charger, helps to know what the date is etc.

It's quite possible they changed the thermistor value at some stage. Lower values like 3.6 Kohm mean slightly more current passes through than for a 10K one, so there will be a bit more self-heating going on, which will alter the temperature estimate! So they may have increased the resistance to reduce this effect. Yo could try putting 10 Kohm resistors from the 2 thermistor-connections to the black connection, but I'm not sure this will help.

As your 2 thermistors read the same, they look to be ok to me. How likely is it that 2 thermistors rated 10 kOhm boh got cooked exactly the same way, suffered the same damage, and both dropped to about 4K (at 25C, my guess) ?

Thats my model of charger (pic below) and it flashes in a row before the last.

I’m chargind trought the night, so it’s always time to charge on a lower current (set in car, I think it’s 6A, ob BMW 225xe).

I’m already on farnell ready to order new Termistors, what you suggest, which values to take, just 10kOhm or also some others (more or less)??

 

[HandyAndy]

Looks to me like the row before last means "Fault", and it's not the "Temperature" column. Before you spend money at Farnell (you might find cpc.farnell.com a bit cheaper for small quantities, but their choice is a lot smaller) I suggest you try a couple of 10k Ohm resistors instead. These will look like thermistors fixed at 25C, assuming this one wants 10 kOhm thermistors. If this fixes the problem, then it's worth buying the thermistors.

The 10K ones I suggest are NTCLE100E3103 type. Lots to choose from, so look at the price, some ship from abroad, some come in 100's etc. You don't need super-high accuracy ones.

But I don't think this is the problem to be honest.

 

[sasso]

Looks to me like the row before last means "Fault", and it's not the "Temperature" column. Before you spend money at Farnell (you might find cpc.farnell.com a bit cheaper for small quantities, but their choice is a lot smaller) I suggest you try a couple of 10k Ohm resistors instead. These will look like thermistors fixed at 25C, assuming this one wants 10 kOhm thermistors. If this fixes the problem, then it's worth buying the thermistors.

The 10K ones I suggest are NTCLE100E3103 type. Lots to choose from, so look at the price, some ship from abroad, some come in 100's etc. You don't need super-high accuracy ones.

But I don't think this is the problem to be honest.

Thanks Andy. Yes it’s blinking So you suggest to buy normal 10kOhm as it’s in your manuls. And which one smaller and bigger one also? I want to try.

What you think what could also be the problem?

 

[p.guerreiro60]

Hi, I have the same problem. what is the value of the 2 resistors? Best Regards

 

[HandyAndy]

It's your decision what resistors to try. The chargers I've repaired used thermistors which are 10 kOhms at 25C temp. Farnell have data sheet telling you what this resistance drops to at around 60-70C, I guess that might be near the point that they trip because of overheating. And when it's colder, the resistance will be higher.

So the lower the resistance you try, the more likely the charger is to thinking it's got too hot.

Apart from that I cannot give you any more advice.You now know as much as I do, which is not a lot. I have no circuit diagram to help me.

 

[viktorp]

@Nuno , here's a pic of the thermistors disected out of a UK plug.
View attachment 171502

The wires look to be the same as yours, and assuming I chose the correct replacement thermistor, I'd expect to see 10 kOhms at 25C.

In yr post you said "I've measured the resistance and in all 3 wires value is close to 284kohm with plug connected to 220v and 0.0 ohm when disconnected. " Please do NOT go poking around inside while plugged into 220V ! Risking all sorts of problems, if you slip with the meter it's easy to short-circuit something and it all goes bang.

You do NOT want 220V around, and we do not need it, while we're checking out the thermistors & cabling to the mains plug!

the 12k Ohms you measured from black wire to the other 2 this wires is fine, so your thermistors are not the problem. Feel free to warm up the plug using a hairdryer, the resistance of the Viskay 10k thermistor I believe to be close to the actual part will change from 10 kOhm at 25C and drop to 3.6 kOhma st 50C. I'm expecting to see a drop in resistance of that sort of amount.

The resistance to Earth from these wires (290 kOhms) is totally irrelevant, and unknown. Some EVSEs wire one end of the thermistors to the Earth pin inside the plug, clearly this one does not.

You say the resistance of the thick mains cables all over the place is fine. In this case, I agree with Spiny that it's likely to be a failuire of the low voltage supply somewhere.

Olá Nuno, Boa noite.
Estive a ler a publicação da reparação de uma ficha de um carregador EV, no entanto para o mercado UK.
Eu tenho um Zoe com um carregador APTIV IC-CPD B-G27-P62-16A-RE.
Esta semana parti um pino do terminal SCHUKO do meu carregador e pensei que seria muito fácil substituir a ficha, mas na verdade não é.
Começo pelo facto de existirem 5 fios, 3 normais para Fase Neutro e Terra, no entanto verifico mais 2 adicionais, um cinzento e outro vermelho.
Depois de começar a ler, verifiquei que esses dois fios adicionais seriam o CP e PP que ainda não consegui identificar qual é qual.
No entanto, ao tentar extrair o máximo de informação sobre o terminal SHUKO antigo, verifico que o fio vermelho não tem qualquer continuidade.
Apenas o cinzento está ligado a qualquer coisa que não consegui identificar, porque quando cortei o disco drill ficou danificado.
Foi aí que comecei a ler este POST e que algumas coisas começaram a fazer sentido.
No meu caso só tenho 5 fios, ou seja não existe o fio preto.
No entanto, e uma vez que o fio vermelho não tem qualquer continuidade, pensei que poderia utilizar este termistor ligado ao fio cinzento e ao fio terra.
Será esta uma possibilidade? e o termistar a utilizar será igual ao testado aqui no vosso caso? (Vishay NTCLE100E3103 )

Muito obrigado desde já pela ajuda

Vítor Pereira

 

[HandyAndy]

Google Translation to English:
"Hello Nuno, Good evening. I was reading the publication about the repair of an EV charger plug, however for the UK market. I have a Zoe with an APTIV IC-CPD B-G27-P62-16A-RE charger. This week I broke a pin on the SCHUKO terminal on my charger and I thought it would be very easy to replace the plug, but it actually isn't. I start with the fact that there are 5 wires, 3 normal ones for Neutral Phase and Earth, however I check 2 additional ones, one gray and one red. After starting to read, I realized that these two additional wires would be CP and PP, which I still couldn't identify which is which. However, when trying to extract as much information as possible about the old SHUKO terminal, I notice that the red wire has no continuity. Only the gray is linked to something that I couldn't identify, because when I cut the drill disc it was damaged. That's when I started reading this POST and some things started to make sense. In my case I only have 5 wires, that is, there is no black wire. However, since the red wire has no continuity, I thought I could use this thermistor connected to the gray wire and the ground wire. Is this a possibility? and will the thermistor to be used be the same as the one tested here in your case? (Vishay NTCLE100E3103 ) Thank you very much in advance for your help Victor Pereira"

 

[HandyAndy]

There's some confusion going on here.

If the damaged plug is the one going into the House electrics, then the 2 wires are related to thermistor temperature checking. We need to see a picture of the Aptiv unit to know what's going on. It might be the 2 wires go to each end of a single thermistor. Or there may be 2 thermistors each with a single wire, and the other ends of the 2 thermistors both go to the big Earth wire. There is no CP or PP anywhere near this mains plug.

If the damaged plug is the one going into the car, there are no thermistors, and the 2 wires are CP and PP wires. Again, please post some pictures.

Google translate to Portugese:
Há alguma confusão acontecendo aqui. Se o plugue danificado for o que vai para a parte elétrica da casa, os 2 fios estão relacionados à verificação da temperatura do termistor. Precisamos ver uma foto da unidade Aptiv para saber o que está acontecendo. Podem ser os 2 fios que vão para cada extremidade de um único termistor. Ou pode haver 2 termistores, cada um com um único fio, e as outras extremidades dos 2 termistores vão para o grande fio terra. Não há CP ou PP perto deste plugue de alimentação. Se o plugue danificado for o que vai para o carro, não há termistores e os 2 fios são fios CP e PP. Mais uma vez, por favor poste algumas fotos.

 

[viktorp]

 

[viktorp]

 

[viktorp]

I've already solved the problem.
I didn't have a Vishay NTCLE100E3103, so I've used 2 NTC 10K and did worked.
For now, I think the problem is solved.
Many thanks to all

 

[HandyAndy]

Your Aptiv is a B-G27-P62-16A-RE model.
The Aptivs I've seen & mended are B-G03-PO5-10A-BM.
Yours appears to ber 16A rated, the others are 10A rated. I assume that's what the 16A & 10A in the model numbers mean.

You have 2 wires, the others have 3. Your 2 appear to be terminated with a low-voltage capacitor across the 2 wires, then another to Earth. I don't think they are thermistors - I'd expect markings like the colour bands that resistors have.

I cannot advise you any further as I lack any info like a circuit diagram or the ability to check these components. Yo could unsolder them and see if they are indeed capacitors, but this is up to you. I suspect there is no temperature checking happening inside this particular mains plug. But without a circuit diagram or instruction manual I have no way of knowing.

Sorry I can't be of any more help than this.

 

[HandyAndy]

I've already solved the problem.
I didn't have a Vishay NTCLE100E3103, so I've used 2 NTC 10K and did worked.
For now, I think the problem is solved.
Many thanks to all

Well done! But please check the rate the resistance changes with temperature. And exactly how did you wire them up? With only 2 wires I would expect both thermistors to be connected to Earth at one end with a single wires to the other 2 ends.

Did you fit those green components yourself? Are they there along with the thermistors?

 

[viktorp]

I've already tried to heat the system, and it works, the red light in charger starts to flash. When temperature starts to decrease, the red light goes off and the temperature light goes on, and for finish, when the temperature is standard, it starts to charge and red lights are all off.
My connections are similar to the picture in post #52, the green components on my picture are the 2 thermistors (NTC 10K).
In my case, the purple is the red wire, and orange is EARTH and white is white

 

[HandyAndy]

Thanks, makes perfect sense.