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An owner of one of these decided to swap the 13A plug for a Commando one, only to discover after cutting it off that there are 6 wires going into the plug! I acquired this, and have repaired it with a chunky new 13A Masterplug and have fitted the 2 thermistors inside where they belong. I'm posting what I've learned so as to help anyone else with a damaged/destroyed plug, or wanting to do the same kind of plug-swap, so they can buy they correct valued thermistors if required.

The original owner carefully disected away the plug, and rescued both thermistors & the fragments of wire, enough for me to be certain of the connections. Thank you!

In addition to the usual 3 wires, the cable from the EVSE has 3 more coloured Black, Purple/Grey, and Purple/Black.
One thermistor is connected between Black and Purple/Black.
One thermistor is connected between Black and Purple/Grey.
I believe the thermistors to be Vishay NTCLE100E3103 which are 10k Ohms at 25C. Colour code Brown-Black-Orange.

Type-2 plug EVSE (from a Bmw, probably i3) with new plug fitted:
View attachment 125434

Underside of EVSE:
View attachment 125436

Wire fragments:
View attachment 125435

13A Masterplug
View attachment 125437

A very small amount of trimming was needed inside the Masterplug to not trap the thermistor wires. In the Rhs view one thermistor has been tucked beside the Neutral wire, and the other thermistor sits above the fuse.

I checked the resistance of the 2 thermistors carefully, letting them cool slowly from 100C on my K-thermocouple-controlled Heated Base Plate. I believe the thermocuple temperature will have been at most 2 degrees C cooler than the thermocouple reported, and that reports in 1C intervals. So there's a fair bit of variation in the resistances I measured while the temp controller (an industrial Toho unit) was reporting a single temperature.
Here's a table of the max and min resistances (Ohms) I measured at a series of temps, and also the nominal resistance expected from a Vishay NTCLE100E3103 thermistor datasheet:

Temp Min Max NTCLE100E3103
100 707 759 677
95 800 847 786
90 908 957 915
85 1046 1099 1070
80 1224 1294 1256
70 1680 1768 1753
60 2380 2502 2490
50 3437 3556 3605
40 5044 5353 5330
30 7470 7800 8059
25 9187 9675 10000
24 9642 10110 (no data)

Given the variability in thermistors (the 2 I tested were usually about 30 Ohms apart, and must have been near-as-dammit identical temps) I consider this a pretty close match, certainly accurate enough for this Vishay thermistor to be used as an excellent replacement for a damaged original. My thanks to Farnell (& Cpc, part of the same group) for making the datasheets & parts available.
Hy HandyAndy, thank you for all the info.
Could you please tell me which connection is right, I can see that one thermistor is link between purple/grey and the white cable, but the other one, could you tell me if purple/black is soldered with the black or the black shoul be soldered with the white?

Thank you so much.
 
Discussion starter · #82 ·
The 3rd photo in my post should make it clear.
Each thermistor has a white return wire, and these are commoned together and soldered to the black wire in the cable.
Each thermistor has it's own private supply wire, coloured red. These go to the individual purple+whatever wires.
It isn't going to matter which thermistor goes in which location inside the plug. Either of these overheating is going to trip the charger.
I've updated my original post, so hope this clarifies it. :)
 
Another one who made the same mistake and cut the pug off, only to find the additional 3 cores!

Thanks to everyone on this thread, it has really helped.

Just as a bit more info, I found it hard to find the right thermistor in the correct quantities. In the end I manage to get a pack of 5 for ÂŁ3 + p&p from eBay
I can't post the link as its my first post on here but they were easy to find using the part numbers quoted by others.
All the big companies online had big minimum quantities or orders.

Also, just to confirm for those with Orange, White and Black cores – The Orange is the common and it should be wired up as below.

It is tight getting everything in the plug but can be done. Mine is now working again perfectly.

Thanks again.
Image


Image


Image
 
Glad to here it's working.
They use two thermistors so I suspect it's to tell the difference between an overall warm plug in the sun when both will stay similar and one overheating.

Might be a good idea to separate them, one near the neutral, the other near the live/fuse where trouble usually starts.
 
Discussion starter · #85 ·
I rather doubt they're as sophisticated as trying to work out if the plug's been sunbathing! All the 2-thermistor plugs I've seen have one close to the L wire + fuse region, and the other near the N wire.
I think they're trying to check both the weak-points in the system, = the sliding/sprung connections with the socket.

So yes, please try & reposition one thermistor over by the fuse side.
Here's a pic of one of the chopped plugs I stripped apart: Thermistors at the L & N places.
Image
 
Hello all,

I have just bought a second-hand Passat GTE estate (we needed a family car, but will be sad to see our lease Ioniq electric go in a few weeks). It has an aftermarket charger made by Delphi - product code 35025802 - which looks like the one above in this thread. I'm just trying to confirm is appropriate for the car and get hold of a PDF of the manual. I'm struggling to find any information online as Delphi have sold their cable business to Aptiv. It looks like a standard 10A charger, and that looks like it'll be fine, but I've just spent a lot of money and want to be sure.

Pictures attached for info. Any help gratefully received!

Thanks,

Philip
as above I cut off plug and found 6 wires. measuring across the cables to find out where they went I found black - purple was 25k ohms at 5c and 51K ohm across the 2 purple - thermistors in series. thwe above account states 10K ohm for replacement at 25c are they this sensitive to temp change? 25k @ 5c to 10k at 25c? any answers greatly received
 
Yes :)

See this
 
An owner of one of these decided to swap the 13A plug for a Commando one, only to discover after cutting it off that there are 6 wires going into the plug! I acquired this, and have repaired it with a chunky new 13A Masterplug and have fitted the 2 thermistors inside where they belong. I'm posting what I've learned so as to help anyone else with a damaged/destroyed plug, or wanting to do the same kind of plug-swap, so they can buy they correct valued thermistors if required.

The original owner carefully disected away the plug, and rescued both thermistors & the fragments of wire, enough for me to be certain of the connections. Thank you!

In addition to the usual 3 wires, the cable from the EVSE has 3 more coloured Black, Purple/Grey, and Purple/Black.
One thermistor is connected between Black and Purple/Black.
One thermistor is connected between Black and Purple/Grey.
The black wire appears to be the common return/ground for these, as both white leads on the thermistors are soldered together with the black wire.
I believe the thermistors to be Vishay NTCLE100E3103 which are 10k Ohms at 25C. Colour code Brown-Black-Orange.

Type-2 plug EVSE (from a Bmw, probably i3) with new plug fitted:
View attachment 125434

Underside of EVSE:
View attachment 125436

Wire fragments:
View attachment 125435

13A Masterplug
View attachment 125437

A very small amount of trimming was needed inside the Masterplug to not trap the thermistor wires. In the Rhs view one thermistor has been tucked beside the Neutral wire, and the other thermistor sits above the fuse.

I checked the resistance of the 2 thermistors carefully, letting them cool slowly from 100C on my K-thermocouple-controlled Heated Base Plate. I believe the thermocuple temperature will have been at most 2 degrees C cooler than the thermocouple reported, and that reports in 1C intervals. So there's a fair bit of variation in the resistances I measured while the temp controller (an industrial Toho unit) was reporting a single temperature.
Here's a table of the max and min resistances (Ohms) I measured at a series of temps, and also the nominal resistance expected from a Vishay NTCLE100E3103 thermistor datasheet:

Temp Min Max NTCLE100E3103
100 707 759 677
95 800 847 786
90 908 957 915
85 1046 1099 1070
80 1224 1294 1256
70 1680 1768 1753
60 2380 2502 2490
50 3437 3556 3605
40 5044 5353 5330
30 7470 7800 8059
25 9187 9675 10000
24 9642 10110 (no data)

Given the variability in thermistors (the 2 I tested were usually about 30 Ohms apart, and must have been near-as-dammit identical temps) I consider this a pretty close match, certainly accurate enough for this Vishay thermistor to be used as an excellent replacement for a damaged original. My thanks to Farnell (& Cpc, part of the same group) for making the datasheets & parts available.
Thanks for the info Andy. Looks like the two thermistors in series?
I'm on VAG, (same problem) but with two wires?
From the photo it seems you wired the thermistors independent of the plug wiring? Is that right please?
 
Another one here. Me thinks: Just change the 13A UK plug for a commando 16A plug and socket! Yes? No.
After reading this thread (and others) I'm not alone!
Skoda Octavia, 2021.
Unable to 'dismantle' the plug to get at the thermistor - moulded plug appears to be all the electrics 'sunk' into plastic? I couldn't find any space.
Wiring: L N and earth, red and white 'signal' wires.
No connection L, N, E to either of the red or white wires.
13.2Kohm red-white. @HandyAndy can I use the one mentioned earlier in this thread? https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3283074.pdf datasheet,
Top one from https://uk.farnell.com/c/sensors-tr...erature-sensors-transducers/thermistors/ntc-thermistors?st=Vishay+NTCLE100E3103

On the commando free socket all I can do is 'float' the thermistor in /around the Live / Neutral. Hoping its services will not be needed!
 
Discussion starter · #91 · (Edited)
Thanks for the info Andy. Looks like the two thermistors in series?
I'm on VAG, (same problem) but with two wires?
From the photo it seems you wired the thermistors independent of the plug wiring? Is that right please?
No the thermistors are NOT in series. See pics in posts #43 & #52.
There's a common supply/ground to each, then an individual supply/ground to each thermistor. Wired in a Y shape in effect, with thermistors in middle of the upper arms of the 'Y'. 3 wires required, or just 2 if they're sharing the big E wire. But you say no connection to E, so it's not that in your case.

Yes the thermistor wiring is totally independent of the LNE mains wires, except that they might all share a common Ground wire. Unlikely that they do, as you don't want any tiny voltage twitches on the thick E wire to cause any sort of inductive interference/noise on the low-voltage, microscopic current signal wires attached to the thermistors.
 
Discussion starter · #92 ·
Another one here. Me thinks: Just change the 13A UK plug for a commando 16A plug and socket! Yes? No.
After reading this thread (and others) I'm not alone!
Skoda Octavia, 2021.
Unable to 'dismantle' the plug to get at the thermistor - moulded plug appears to be all the electrics 'sunk' into plastic? I couldn't find any space.
Wiring: L N and earth, red and white 'signal' wires.
No connection L, N, E to either of the red or white wires.
13.2Kohm red-white. @HandyAndy can I use the one mentioned earlier in this thread? https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3283074.pdf datasheet,
Top one from https://uk.farnell.com/c/sensors-tr...erature-sensors-transducers/thermistors/ntc-thermistors?st=Vishay+NTCLE100E3103

On the commando free socket all I can do is 'float' the thermistor in /around the Live / Neutral. Hoping its services will not be needed!
I repaired one EVSE which needed a Commando plug fitting. Pic here, where the 2 thermistors are inside yellow heatshrink sleeve then cable-tied as close as poss to the possible hot-spot regions. Earth pin likely to be always cool so not there. L & N pins handle same current, so I'd go for N pin as usually around 0V.
https://www.speakev.com/posts/3514212/

Sounds like your plug only has a single thermistor, red & white wire. Your 13.2 kOhm I guess was measured at typical UK house temps, maybe 18-20C ish. Resistance drops as temperature rises, so yours sounds like a standard 10kOhm at 25C one.

NTCLE100E3103 would be my choice. You may find Farnell expensive to buy single item, try cpc.farnell.com or uk.rs-online.com or maybe mouser.co.uk (tho' never used this last supplier). farnell.com are v quick delivery but you pay a bit for that, plus their huge choice of slight varieties of the basically same item.
 
I repaired one EVSE which needed a Commando plug fitting. Pic here, where the 2 thermistors are inside yellow heatshrink sleeve then cable-tied as close as poss to the possible hot-spot regions. Earth pin likely to be always cool so not there. L & N pins handle same current, so I'd go for N pin as usually around 0V.
https://www.speakev.com/posts/3514212/

Sounds like your plug only has a single thermistor, red & white wire. Your 13.2 kOhm I guess was measured at typical UK house temps, maybe 18-20C ish. Resistance drops as temperature rises, so yours sounds like a standard 10kOhm at 25C one.

NTCLE100E3103 would be my choice. You may find Farnell expensive to buy single item, try cpc.farnell.com or uk.rs-online.com or maybe mouser.co.uk (tho' never used this last supplier). farnell.com are v quick delivery but you pay a bit for that, plus their huge choice of slight varieties of the basically same item.
@HandyAndy just to confirm, these thermistors do have a negative temp coefficient, so increase current sensing through the two wires as temp rises?
 
Discussion starter · #95 ·
Resistance changes with temperature. So typically wired as a voltage-divider. Cpu then reads the voltage with A2D converter, and can do the reverse calculation to work out the temperature. Details in the datasheets. Don't worry about it.

It's a guess as to whether the make of thermistor used actually is a Vishay, but it certainly looks like it to me. A different make will have a slightly different temperatuce-change slope, but likely to be in the same region. Doesn't have to be ultra-accurate, they're looking for changes in temperature of the order of 5C increments, not 0.001C .
 
Discussion starter · #97 ·
The thermistor is almost certainly wired in series with another standad resistor, and the 2 resistors connected between say +5V & 0V.
If both are at 10Kohms at 25C (10K thermistor standard item then the midpoint voltage is 2.5V. If the Thermistor then changes to 20K ohms thx to large temp change, the standard resistor won't change very much, but voltage will be 3.3V or 1.6V depending which way round it's connected.

Most cpus these days have a built-in A2D converter, some even have a nice voltage ref they can use to really nail down the temperatures. Op-amp is more space, more wiring & cost than a single cheapo resistor to wire the thermistor in.

At a pinch there might be mltiplexor chip so the cpu can sample 2 or more such analogue signals, if there's only one AD on the cpu. Like ESP8266 only has a single A2D, while Arduino ATMega whatsit has 2 I think.

Plenty of info on the net if you care to search please.
 
I want to cut the cord between the part that goes into the car and the charging brick. Is there 6 wires in that part and could I rejoin them using 2x 3 core in line connectors. The reason being to pass it through a letterbox. Since you guys know what it looks like inside thought this thread would be good to ask on. Thanks
 
I want to cut the cord between the part that goes into the car and the charging brick. Is there 6 wires in that part and could I rejoin them using 2x 3 core in line connectors. The reason being to pass it through a letterbox. Since you guys know what it looks like inside thought this thread would be good to ask on. Thanks
Would the plug at the car end go through your letterbox?
Mine won't.
 
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